Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Denatured 90% or more isopropyl alcohol will not leave residue on electrical contacts. A q tip can help get in there.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Moving my reply over to my build thread, as I am going on a tangent about my engine here. Here is the original thread that started this conversation.
Ross does have the right idea here: you're going to put the best effort into tuning if your mods are installed and tuned for one step at a time. Fueling is probably the best place to start, and as we've said before, if you don't have your injector data correct, every bit of tuning is going to be band-aids on top of that. Compare the differences in the injector flows between your tune and your reference tune, so you know what all is changing. Then reference those changes with the data you have for your new injectors.

Ross, I'm thinking you may run into challenges with the 80lb injectors and E85 being separate steps- again, I've not tried it yet, but according to my understanding you may run into over-rich idle issues with minimum pulse widths on 93. Are you planning on running a BRFS?

Folks have talked about an E67 PCM swap on LSJs, which has flex-fuel capabilities including an ethanol content sensor. That interests me, but we're getting a bit off topic here. To bring it back, if it were me, I'd go fuel -> supercharger -> cams with tuning between each step. What do y'all think? Too much work?
You have a good point, Rauq. I probably should do the 80lb injectors and E85 tune first, then see if I can get the 80lb injectors working with gasoline.
I am hoping that the Bosch 80lb injectors will work with gas, as I know the Siemens 80lb injectors have issues. Bosch made split spray pattern injectors which should work better in our LSJ engine, as the intake is split into 2 valve entrances. The Siemens injectors are made for a single valve, and they will wash fuel over the split intake wall on our engine, which isn't optimal.

If the split spray pattern doesn't run well with gas, I will look into a boost reference fuel system.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
If you can get the Bosch 80's to run on 93, I'll probably pick up a set for myself as well. My plan is to run a 2.9" on the M62 and then possibly turbo swap down the road, and upgrading injectors only once is appealing. I'm not sure I want to make the jump to ethanol primarily for concerns of range; I'll be hitting the mountains as frequently as any other type of driving.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
My understanding from the zzp LSJ entry turbo swap kit is that 60s work for the turbo kit so long as you don’t exceed 16psi. Beyond that you need 80s and above 17psi you need the BRFP system. At that point you’re looking at 400whp+
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
My understanding from the zzp LSJ entry turbo swap kit is that 60s work for the turbo kit so long as you don’t exceed 16psi. Beyond that you need 80s and above 17psi you need the BRFP system. At that point you’re looking at 400whp+
To really know for sure, one needs to data log and look at the duty cycle. These may be good reference points, but are not hard facts. I run 15PSI boost (SC) and have 60lbs injectors and they are no where near their limits. I am pushing them to about 45-50% duty cycle and they have a lot of headroom left. I do have a BRFS now, but even before, they still was a lot left in them. I think the only way one would need to go to 80 is they are running the Justin Reed set up (585HP). Anything bigger than what you actually need is nothing but a pain in the a55.

I will say, I am very happy with the BRFS set up! Pretty much the best of both worlds, big injectors and decent idle.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Spent today playing with GIMP software to make the faceplate match my stock SS gauges.
I calibrated my oil pressure sender using compressed air and 2 tire gauges,
then wrote a small program for the Arduino controller to read the sender, and send the signal to a servo.
It is surprisingly accurate (about .2 of a PSI if I used a digital output).
19832


I used my old 3D printer and some wood PLA for the servo frame, and the can is the right size for a 2" gauge faceplate, an Arduino, and a 12V to 5V converter.
19833
19834


Costs are adding up:
The Arduino promini is < $2,
the 9G 270 degree servo was about $5 each when I bought a 5 pack of them. (I plan on making more custom gauges)
A 12V to 5V buck converter is < $2, and the 100 PSI pressure transducer is about $13.
I also had to buy a M12x1.75 to the 1/8"x27 NPT thread adapter for the threads to match the LSJ block, $13.37.

Next steps is to solder the circuit board, and find some clear plastic to lathe a faceplate cover.
I dream of a translucent 3D printed PLA frame with RGB LED mounts near the white edges of the gauge faceplate to back light the ring. Maybe print a proper gauge needle with a spot for an RGB LED in the middle, and let the needle be a light tunnel.
If I get further on the CANBUS training, I could covert these gauges over, and then they could show up in the HP Tuners logs. It is important to have dreams!
Playing, tinkering, and having fun on these cold days.
 
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Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Ross, do you find that your Arduino board does not make great contact with the guts of your breadboard? I've used three different breadboards and with all three, an excessive amount of down force is needed to make proper contact, and it's still somewhat spotty. One of the chief reasons I have not yet implemented my keyless start..
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I have had that issue with a worn out board. If you use wires that are too big, it will spread the the contacts in the board, wreaking it.
Buy a new board, start again.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Everything seems to fit snugly. My wires and the pins on the Arduino seem to be the exact same size as the holes on the breadboard. I'll revisit it at some point. Thanks for the pointers.
 

Peregrinus

Well-Known Member
Today was dry enough, I took the Goblin for a drive, to test the intermittent dash issue. The dash didn't work for the last 3 or 4 drives, but it worked today! I think just taking apart the electrical connector did it.

So I am going to blow out the connectors with compressed air, wash them in brake cleaner, and put dielectric grease on them.
Maybe that will keep the dust from my driveway from getting in between the connector contacts.

Update:
Dielectric grease is non conductive grease and should never be used on the metal part of the connectors.
Have you tried using new terminals or replacing the plug housings themselves? I've seen instances mentioned in the hpa academy wiring sections and videos where worn housings caused intermittent signal losses and replacing the entire connector was the fix.

Edit: https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/delphi-micro-64-female-unsealed-22-20ga-terminal


There's the link to the micro 64 pins.

Also you're correct on the plug, you only needed to slide out the green bar from the center to remove the pin cover. I did the same thing the other night when I rebuilt one with new wires and terminals :)
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Thanks Peregrinus. I would like to replace the plug, now that I have identified it as the issue.

Those new terminals look like they will fit, but I'm not sure if the plug is the same.
AllDataDIY has the plug listed at:
19862


and the EFI Connection has:
19863
 

Peregrinus

Well-Known Member
Ah yes, you're right, that one is different, I only redid the pins on mine. So didn't notice that before. Now I'm glad I didn't order one. Sorry about that, I'll edit my post to reflect the pins only. Id order from mouser using the actual oem part number I think it was only $1 more. :D

edit 2: checking back, that one matches my pcm plug c2 though, I just got my plugs mixed up. Got the bcm and pcm plugs mixed up, oops lol kinda weird efi connection doesn't have the 72 way ones. but i know a few of the BCM connectors even on mousers website, they are listed as "obsolete" and no longer for sale. luckily i think the 72 way ones are still available.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Mouser had the BCM C2 plug, like you said. Also better prices on the pins.
How do I find a crimping tool for these Aptiv Micro64 Connectors pins?
The Aptiv crimpings tools range from $100 to over $6000. Kind of kills my hope of doing this at a reasonable price.

I'm already over $30 for plug parts. Debating cutting one out of a auto recycler yard, and soldering the wires I need. Or maybe I already have some spare cut wires on pins that are part of the old Cobalt wiring harness. Just move them over, and solder them in.
19865
 

Peregrinus

Well-Known Member
i paid alot of money, I spent about 1.5-2k on crimping tools to get everything i needed for ALL the wiring sadly, this includes tools for mil-spec bulkheads and other specialized connectors i plan to use. The prices on OEM tools can definitely make you sick though.

the tool i used earlier today when i crimped is in the previous post there, u can see the part number on it.

my cheaper Iwiss tools from amazon, also worked, allbeit not quite as nicely. but the entire set is only $135.


you could likely buy the single tool for cheaper instead of the entire set.
Here is the link for the single crimper from iwiss.


the packard specific tool i showed above locks as u crimp though, and made a much nicer crimp.

crimp the wire with the best one that makes a tight connection u cannot pull out, then crimp the insulation with the next up 1 size larger.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
That is crazy. I'm out.
$135+ to buy crimping tools plus $30+ to buy the plastic BCM plug and some pins!
If it was my career to do electrical harness work, then sure, but I just don't see that I will use this tool enough to justify it.
I will just reuse a BCM pin and wire that is not currently in service. I left a few inches of wire on every wire I cut, so I can solder onto.
It will cost me a little bit of time and solder, instead of over $165.
 
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