Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Check to be sure the brake cleaner doesn't melt the plastic on the connectors.
It shouldnt. But I will not vouch for every brand.Check to be sure the brake cleaner doesn't melt the plastic on the connectors.
You have a good point, Rauq. I probably should do the 80lb injectors and E85 tune first, then see if I can get the 80lb injectors working with gasoline.Ross does have the right idea here: you're going to put the best effort into tuning if your mods are installed and tuned for one step at a time. Fueling is probably the best place to start, and as we've said before, if you don't have your injector data correct, every bit of tuning is going to be band-aids on top of that. Compare the differences in the injector flows between your tune and your reference tune, so you know what all is changing. Then reference those changes with the data you have for your new injectors.
Ross, I'm thinking you may run into challenges with the 80lb injectors and E85 being separate steps- again, I've not tried it yet, but according to my understanding you may run into over-rich idle issues with minimum pulse widths on 93. Are you planning on running a BRFS?
Folks have talked about an E67 PCM swap on LSJs, which has flex-fuel capabilities including an ethanol content sensor. That interests me, but we're getting a bit off topic here. To bring it back, if it were me, I'd go fuel -> supercharger -> cams with tuning between each step. What do y'all think? Too much work?
To really know for sure, one needs to data log and look at the duty cycle. These may be good reference points, but are not hard facts. I run 15PSI boost (SC) and have 60lbs injectors and they are no where near their limits. I am pushing them to about 45-50% duty cycle and they have a lot of headroom left. I do have a BRFS now, but even before, they still was a lot left in them. I think the only way one would need to go to 80 is they are running the Justin Reed set up (585HP). Anything bigger than what you actually need is nothing but a pain in the a55.My understanding from the zzp LSJ entry turbo swap kit is that 60s work for the turbo kit so long as you don’t exceed 16psi. Beyond that you need 80s and above 17psi you need the BRFP system. At that point you’re looking at 400whp+
Have you tried using new terminals or replacing the plug housings themselves? I've seen instances mentioned in the hpa academy wiring sections and videos where worn housings caused intermittent signal losses and replacing the entire connector was the fix.Today was dry enough, I took the Goblin for a drive, to test the intermittent dash issue. The dash didn't work for the last 3 or 4 drives, but it worked today! I think just taking apart the electrical connector did it.
So I am going to blow out the connectors with compressed air, wash them in brake cleaner,and put dielectric grease on them.
Maybe that will keep the dust from my driveway from getting in between the connector contacts.
Update:
Dielectric grease is non conductive grease and should never be used on the metal part of the connectors.