Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

[Scott #321]

Ross I've been fascinated by your windshield idea since you initially posted it. I have been contemplating the idea but with a more secure mount to the hood while still being replaceable. I pick up my frame and kit next week so currently any thoughts of mine are just hypethitical. Love the look and ingenuity of this solution you have come up with to the windshield issue.

 

[Gtstorey]

Can the polycarbonate be worked enough to make some clear brackets? Just about 2” long and heated to bend the angle? If not maybe make some out of plexiglass.

 

[TheNuker]

Can the polycarbonate be worked enough to make some clear brackets? Just about 2” long and heated to bend the angle? If not maybe make some out of plexiglass.

AFAIK Plexiglass is polycarbonate right?

Nuker-

 

[Ross]

A lot of experimental plane builders are using Sikaflex adhesive instead of lots of rivets On their canopy. Hard part is a consistent bead and application.

I think a layer of clear paint protection film, then a Sikaflex bead will be my next attempt at holding the windscreen. That way I can always remove the paint protection film if I want to try something different.

Windshield mount rail like the DF one would keep the windscreen in place when removing the hood for maintenance. The GA adhesive JB mentioned would make for clean looking installation. IMO.

I do remove the hood and windscreen as one piece, but I do have to disconnect the clamps on the A pillars.

Maybe one or two center attachment points to reduce the shimmy effect.
Additionally use a rubber self adhesive edging strip on the bottom edge of the windscreen to take up the gap and help seal it to the body.

Yes 2 attachment points would fix it. I did use an edging strip but it wasn't held to the hood. Sikaflex should fix that.

Ross I've been fascinated by your windshield idea since you initially posted it. I have been contemplating the idea but with a more secure mount to the hood while still being replaceable. I pick up my frame and kit next week so currently any thoughts of mine are just hypethitical. Love the look and ingenuity of this solution you have come up with to the windshield issue.

Thanks!

Can the polycarbonate be worked enough to make some clear brackets? Just about 2” long and heated to bend the angle? If not maybe make some out of plexiglass.

Maybe... I did try to heat bend it at the outer edges, but I didn't want to hurt the hood with excess heat, and chickened out.

AFAIK Plexiglass is polycarbonate right?
Nuker-

No, I have worked with plexiglass quite a bit. Heat bending, and glueing. Polycatbonate is much tougher. Bulletproof actually. Plexiglass shatters, and is pretty dangerous when cracked. Polycarbonate bends and stretchs when impacted.

 

[Ross]

Would you let a 14 year old drive your Goblin? He has quick reflexes!

 

[r3drckt]

Would you let a 14 year old drive your Goblin? He has quick reflexes!

The kid was doing quite good controlling the back end when it kicked out on him. The spin out was expected but I thought it’d happen a lot more. Great job!

 

[Rauq]

I can't say I'm a better driver than he is now but I can sure say he's a way better driver than I was at 14!

 

[Ross]

Took a chance on these ZZP forged pistons and connecting rods. They are used, but the seller didn't know much about wear, and didn't describe them well... so I was only willing to pay $400 for them, and I crossed my fingers they weren't damaged or worn out.

They arrived today, well bubble wrapped, and on close inspection, they have barely worn the coating on the piston skirts, a bit of carbon on them, so they do have some hours on them.
New, ZZP wants $775 for pistons and 550 for the connecting rods.
I need to purchase LNF/LDK tube type Gen 2 oil squirters, main bearings, and new rings.
Looks like ARP doesn't make connecting rod bolts for the LSJ.

I don't have the top end parts, but building a forged bottom end is a good start.
So now I'm looking for LSJ cams, rockers, valve springs, etc.
I have abandoned my idea of twin charging the LSJ, as modern turbos can be set up to have little lag. So add a turbo to the wish list. Borg Warner S257SXE ?

 

[Vwsaabvt]

Took a chance on these ZZP forged pistons and connecting rods. They are used, but the seller didn't know much about wear, and didn't describe them well... so I was only willing to pay $400 for them, and I crossed my fingers they weren't damaged or worn out.
View attachment 26245
They arrived today, well bubble wrapped, and on close inspection, they have barely worn the coating on the piston skirts, a bit of carbon on them, so they do have some hours on them.
New, ZZP wants $775 for pistons and 550 for the connecting rods.
I need to purchase LNF/LDK tube type Gen 2 oil squirters, main bearings, and new rings.
Looks like ARP doesn't make connecting rod bolts for the LSJ.

I don't have the top end parts, but building a forged bottom end is a good start.
So now I'm looking for LSJ cams, rockers, valve springs, etc.
I have abandoned my idea of twin charging the LSJ, as modern turbos can be set up to have little lag. So add a turbo to the wish list. Borg Warner S257SXE ?

Check with Josh at Category V Port Worx he may have what you need laying around.

 

[Ross]

Today's play day. New Proxes R888R tires. My best lap is below.

 

[Rttoys]

Dahmm, A lot more speed and control now. Oh and stopping power.

 

[TheNuker]

Looks really good! I still miss that SC wine a bit Those r888r are fantastic tires, only thing I have ever ran on my goblins.

Nuker-

 

[Scott #321]

Do you still think the added down force when your windshield is installed will help lap times?

 

[JBINTX]

Today's play day. New Proxes R888R tires. My best lap is below.

Operating at the limits of rubber on asphalt——- There is no substitute!!…….

 

[Ross]

Do you still think the added down force when your windshield is installed will help lap times?

Yes. Don't you? Any added downforce will help. I need a front wing, mid window, and a rear wing. All 3 of those are on my to-do list.

 

[Ross]

I did drain the oil and the antifreeze, but somehow when you pull an engine...
A little oil out of the shock, a little antifreeze, a little oil out of the AC, a splash of gas, a bit of clutch fluid, even skinned a knuckle and added some DNA stuff.
It is like cleaning up a murder scene.

All wiped up, and a little sawdust to soak up any residual.

Time to learn this engine. I need to pick one to tear down, and build up.

 

[JBINTX]

Wait! Hold on one darn minute. You got another donor?
Did I miss this additional plan of yours?

 

[Ross]

Yes, back in January I bought a second donor. Took me until September to pull the motor!
I did use the Recaro seats, pull a mid shaft, a power steering motor & controller, and a starter motor off of it. It is nice to have spares, but I really bought it to build one engine while having something to keep in mad Max.

 

[Rttoys]

That’s what I have been looking for, for a while. Basically, I’d like to have a few spare parts around, but mostly to build an engine, then swap when need be. An extra lsd trans will be useful one day too.

 

[Scott #321]

Jealous here, best looking windshield and a spare cobalt.