Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Traé

Traé

Well-Known Member
What do you have in the top of the donor seat belt? Is it a bolt, an interior nut and an exterior nut?
Is this to keep a gap at the bolt head to allow the seat belt to move freely?

on the buckle side you removed the donor seat buckle and ran it through your harness? Why not use the threads on the tunnel?

These pictures help a lot. I really appreciate it!
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I like the seat belts bolted to the seat, so when you adjust the seat position, you don't have to re-adjust the seat belt.
The tunnel bolt is nice if your seats don't have a mounting point.
The top of the donor seat belt is a 4.5" bolt that is all threads with 2 nuts that pinch the goblin frame, and leave a space for the seat belt to freely move.
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Traé

Traé

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
I like the seat belts bolted to the seat, so when you adjust the seat position, you don't have to re-adjust the seat belt.
The tunnel bolt is nice if your seats don't have a mounting point.
The top of the donor seat belt is a 4.5" bolt that is all threads with 2 nuts that pinch the goblin frame, and leave a space for the seat belt to freely move.
View attachment 48114
Click to expand...
Perfect! Thanks again!
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I used washers to space out the wheel, and I need an extra 11mm of space for the rear calipers to clear my 17" mustang wheels.
The new spacers arrived, off with the old 6mm brake rotor, 39mm adapter, and on with the 20mm brake rotor (extra thick as Justin Reed needed this much room for his wheels) and a 12.7mm spacer.
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The rear wheels were spaced out 45mm, now they are 33mm. Overall, that is 12mm inboard.
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Now I am burnishing the brake pads, adjusting the brake bias and the vacuum regulator going to the brake booster.
The new brakes are a lot more powerful, so I turned the vacuum regulator counter clockwise to reduce the brake boost. I am 2 turns from the minimum setting... very little brake boost assistance.
I have the brake bias turned clockwise all the way down, and I can't quite get enough bias to lock the front brakes up first. I will wait until the brake pads get seated in, and see if this is an issue. Might have to change the pads in the rear to less grippy ones.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
The wheels were clean before the test drive.
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These are the brake pads that I was bedding in:
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This is what the front and rear wheels looked like after bedding in:
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Yikes! Those pads are softer than I thought!
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
After reading this, I think it is safe to say that AFCO F88 caliper uses the same pads as a Wilwood Superlite or Ultra Lite 300 Series calipers
This opens up the brake pad selection from 2 AFCO compounds, to a wide selection.
Here is the Hawk HB521N.650 pads $156 (4 pads for 2 rotors)
I ordered less sticky pads for the rear of my car: Speedway 338 Medium Superlite Brake Pad $80 (4 pads for 2 rotors)
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Yeah, shaving the pad seems easy enough. Hopefully the rest fits, and it is range of my brake bias.
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Yep. Shouldn’t be that hard to trim it. Hope it helps. I may go the same way. Still exploring alternatives though
 
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
The rear brake pads arrived, and were installed. I can now lock up the front tires before the rear, and vise versa. It will take me a while to get the balance just right, as the brake bias seems to have lag. It takes multiple stops before the new bias setting takes affect.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I just reseated the rear left brake lines for the 3rd? time... still trying to seal up the brake system. I probably introduce a small air bubble in the brake lines every time I reseat the brake lines.
All this to say, I'm not sure if the brake pedal is softer. I did have to add more brake boost, as the brakes do need more pressure with the harder rear brake pads.
 
RGSkid70

RGSkid70

Active Member
I also had a tiny chronic leak in the left rear brake line and could never get the fitting to seat. I suspect some time during assembly that I nicked the flare on the DF supplied steel line. I decided to replace the line, rather than try to cut off and re-flare the line. I used the copper-nickel alloy brake line, and highly recommend it. Easy to bend by hand, without kinks. Easy to flare. Soft enough to conform to the fittings and develop a perfect seal. Rated for automotive brake system pressures. Good stuff.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Shane (Friedhouse) & I went to Bikes, Blues & BBQ in Rogers, Arkansas.
There was a ton of motorbikes and no parking, so we cruised thru downtown, parked a few blocks away, and walked the event.
I might have caught a little too much sun, but we had fun. lt is nice to have someone near to go to events with!
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Taking a closer look today to learn what needs to be done to fit my 15" race wheels with the new Justin Reed brake package.
On the front, I need to buy longer wheel studs (Jegs M12-1.5 Thread x 3-1/4" Long x .509" Knurl), and I need a 16mm spacer. The green line shows the brake pad contact zone on the front rotor.
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On the rear, Justin's brake kit was never designed for the stock rear uprights, but rather for the new DF tubular subframe and rear suspension.
I knew this when I bought his kit, so now I have the challenge of modifying my car to make it work.
I can't fit the 15" wheel, because I have the AFCO caliper mounted 8mm father away from the rotor.
The green line shows the brake pad contact zone, while the white lines shows the extra 8mm I need to fit the race wheels.
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I need to design and make a new caliper adapter that will move the caliper inward 8mm.
Flat aluminum stock, drill 4 holes, and make 2 spacers.
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