Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Ahh! Fabrication!!!
Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas
- Thread starter Ross
- Start date
Rauq
Goblin Guru
Is that essentially what OTTP's front balance shaft delete bushings do? You're running an EWP, right? Are you deleting the water pump chain? Do you have a provision to block the oil feed to the short chain tensioner? Or... do I misunderstand the situation? Which is completely possible!
Ross
Goblin Guru
Yes.
Yes, and yes I am deleting the chain. There is a pretty long discussion around removing the thermostat, and placing the EWP.
It is on my list, but I haven't started that yet. You got the picture... including my future mods!
Rauq
Goblin Guru
I've been following!
I thought I was doing a good job of being patient in waiting to ask my questions until your most recent photo update, I wanted to ask them after the previous update but I waited as long as I could!
Ross
Goblin Guru
Kind of... Those OTTP parts look like the cut off end of the balance shafts, so they would still need the sprocket and bolt to be installed. My method held that part in place with a M4 bolt, and some red loctite. Guess you could install it either way, if you have a drill and a tap.
Are those OTTP parts bigger than 20mm?
They might be the size of part #4 here. I'm not sure...
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Rauq
Goblin Guru
My take was, because it says they're meant for removing the factory water pump chain or running [a] short chain, they don't use the chain sprockets. If their grooved plug goes in the exhaust side, it'll still supply oil to the factory water pump chain tensioner for use with a short chain, or the solid plug in the exhaust side cuts oil flow to the tensioner. I think it gets confusing when folks call the factory water pump/balance chain the "short chain" when it's really the shorter chain, and the actual short chain is a water pump-only chain that doesn't run to balance chain sprockets.
Like OTTP's rear balance shaft delete plugs, I think the threaded holes are just for removal purposes or as an install aid. I don't think the threaded holes in the front plugs are for bolts to hold on the sprockets.
Anyway, I'm staying tuned for the water pump chain tensioner oil blockoff!
Ross
Goblin Guru
The old chain tensioner for the water pump & balance shafts is floating up in the orange square.
The orange arrow points to its normal location, where I tapped a M6x1.00 into the oil hole for that tensioner. Effectively blocking the hole with a M6 bolt.
The OTTP Balance Shaft Delete Front Plugs must be 42mm big, in order to block oil feed to the balance shaft chain tensioner.
The exhaust side balance shaft (orange E) has 2 oil holes (green lines), while the intake side (orange I) only has 1.
The orange arrow points to its normal location, where I tapped a M6x1.00 into the oil hole for that tensioner. Effectively blocking the hole with a M6 bolt.
The OTTP Balance Shaft Delete Front Plugs must be 42mm big, in order to block oil feed to the balance shaft chain tensioner.
The exhaust side balance shaft (orange E) has 2 oil holes (green lines), while the intake side (orange I) only has 1.
Quick question, if I just remove the water pump chain. Leave the balance shafts and water pump installed. Do I have to worry about the oil pressure due to the balance shafts not spinning or the chain tensioner having no chain to press against?
Ross
Goblin Guru
I'm not sure if the chain tensioner stays together under oil pressure. The stationary balance shafts should be good to hold oil pressure. The water pump should seal the oil and coolant... assume you will run the EWP and remove the thermostat to allow it to run longer than 5 minutes.
Markm
Well-Known Member
if you’re not running the balance shaft chain you’ll need to make a block off plate for the tensioner cause it’ll be a leak if left off. I have seen a balance shaft tensioner come apart but I wouldn’t trust it without the chain or tensioner shoe to push on.
Ross
Goblin Guru
You mean the electric coolant pump? Those modifications have been done, to the performance engine, which has it's block on the engine stand.
This engine is on year 3... maybe year 4 it might be done??? I am enjoying driving my goblin with the stock LSJ engine, for now.
Back in February, I started the manifold flanges, 2 of the 3 of them have been on the lathe, to cut the 3" hole out.
I took @Markm advice, and have found a local machine shop, that I need to bring my LSJ head to, and get the valves guides & seats done. check if it is flat, etc.
I also have been working on the DIY wood CNC.
Yesterday, I broke my goblin's shifter linkage, so today I fabricated a new, stronger shift linkage arm.
Need to paint and install that, then put the tunnel cap back on, shifter in, and seats in.
Just keep swimming, just keep swimming.
This engine is on year 3... maybe year 4 it might be done??? I am enjoying driving my goblin with the stock LSJ engine, for now.
Back in February, I started the manifold flanges, 2 of the 3 of them have been on the lathe, to cut the 3" hole out.
I took @Markm advice, and have found a local machine shop, that I need to bring my LSJ head to, and get the valves guides & seats done. check if it is flat, etc.
I also have been working on the DIY wood CNC.
Yesterday, I broke my goblin's shifter linkage, so today I fabricated a new, stronger shift linkage arm.
Need to paint and install that, then put the tunnel cap back on, shifter in, and seats in.
Just keep swimming, just keep swimming.