Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Putting the engine back in my Goblin, and I have lost track of where connector #3 goes.
The wire goes to #1 which is the supercharger bypass vacuum hose solenoid thingy,
then #2 which is labeled "Old Evap Solenoid" and then #3, the 8 pin purple connector that goes where?
View attachment 14135
Isn't that the connection that's the same as the coil packs and the headlight harness? You can get them turned around? At least I can.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Swappable electrical connectors

The LSJ engine harness has 3 purple 8 pin connectors, that can accidentally be swapped, also 2 purple 5 pin connectors that can be swapped. All within short proximity of each other, leaving you with a non running goblin. Yikes!

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The secret is to pay attention to the color of the wires that enter & exit each purple connector.

The 3 swappable 8 pin connectors:

1. Engine to Body harness
has a purple 8 pin connector:
The female 8 pin purple connector that is on the same cable as the supercharger bypass solenoid (described in post 316) goes to
the male 8 pin purple connector that is on the same cable that goes to two underside connectors on the fuse box. This connector only has 7 wires on it.
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2. Coil packs cable also has this same 8 pin connector.
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3. Throttle body has a purple 8 pin connector:
The throttle body connects to the female (2 below) that is on a cable that also goes to the MAP sensor (1 below).
The underside of the intake throttle body has a hard mounted male 8 pin connector.
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The 2 swappable 5 pin connectors:
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1. Fuel Injector
harness a purple 5 pin connector:
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2. Mass Air Flow has a purple 5 pin connector:
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The 2 swappable2 pin connectors:
found here
If I recall correctly the trans reverse switch plug and the boost solenoid have the same connector and are close enough to be mixed up, and if I recall correctly twice in a row, will lead to the reverse lights being on all the time. Don't ask me how I know.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
I am getting this on the dash. The battery has been disconnected for a few months, the engine was pulled, and now is back in.
Did I miss an electrical connector somewhere? Is this normal after disconnecting the battery? How do I reset it?
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From under the car, the starter motor looks like this. Does the top bolt on the solenoid get the battery + and then goes to the fusebox +?
I think the bottom bolt goes to the starter motor. The second picture I found on my phone has a better view... I can see the wire going to the starter.
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Still have a few items on the to do list:
- tranny needs oil
- battery needs bolts tightened
- fuel filter needs mounting
- torque some more bolts
 
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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
First is the “pass key” light. So something is up with the key/ignition system.

second: yes. The top bolt that goes to the fuse box. The bottom one goes from terminal to the starter motor.
 
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JBINTX

Goblin Guru
I just swapped ECU's and did the "30 minute re-learn".
Try this:
Turn key to accessories on. Wait ten minutes, then the lock light turns off.
Turn the key off.
Again, turn key to accessories on. Wait ten minutes, then the lock light turns off.
Turn the key off.
One more time. Turn key to accessories on. Wait ten minutes, then the lock light turns off.
Turn the key off.
Now this time when you turn the key on, the lockout should be gone.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Also you can disable VATS using HP Tuners. The light may still be on but it won't stop you from starting the car.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
It is alive!
I did the key relearn 4 times (40 minutes) but the tightening of the 7mm bolts in the fusebox fixed a few issues.
Took it for a 6 mile drive, burped out most of the radiator air.
Engine is running rich, so tomorrow I will hook up HP Tuners and see what it going on.
Probably missed a sensor.

And I have some time to do debugging before the midwest spring meet!
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
It is alive!
I did the key relearn 4 times (40 minutes) but the tightening of the 7mm bolts in the fusebox fixed a few issues.
Took it for a 6 mile drive, burped out most of the radiator air.
Engine is running rich, so tomorrow I will hook up HP Tuners and see what it going on.
Probably missed a sensor.

And I have some time to do debugging before the midwest spring meet!
ATTA Boy!
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Need help/suggestions getting to the bottom of a dash issue.
dash video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dfT5ccRTN85kyzMfA

Yesterday my dash was working 90% of the time, today it is down to 5%.
The gas tank is full, but the gauge will cut on and off. Same with the speedometer and tachometer.
Seem to have the idiot lights, and the digital display, but it says "low fuel" when the gas gauge looses connectivity.

I have tried to figure out which wire cable is causing an issue, but wiggling wires isn't working.

AllDataDIY says it might be the GMLAN...

TACHOMETER

The instrument panel cluster (IPC) displays the engine speed as determined by the powertrain control module (PCM)/engine control module (ECM). The IPC receives a GMLAN message from the body control module (BCM) indicating the engine speed. The tachometer will default to 0 RPM if:

  • The PCM detects a malfunction in the engine speed sensor circuit.
  • The BCM detects a loss of GMLAN communications with the PCM/ECM.
  • The IPC detects a loss of GMLAN communications with the BCM.
GM High Speed LAN wire testing.
But if it is a GMLAN, why would the OBDII port be able to give me the RPM the whole time on HP Tuners log file? The PCM and OBDII ports are at opposite ends of the GMLAN data communication lines:

OBDII pin 6tan/black stripHigh speed GMLAN serial data +Goes to Power Steering, C2, pin 1 (C2 is the grey, 6 pin connector with the small wires)
OBDII pin 14tanHigh speed GMLAN serial data -Goes to Power Steering, C2, pin 2
Power Steering, C2, pin 4brown/white stripHigh speed GMLAN serial data +Goes to BCM, J2, pin 1 (J2/C2 is the white & blue vertical connector closest to the center tunnel)
Power Steering, C2, pin 5brownHigh speed GMLAN serial data -Goes to BCM, J2/C2, pin 19
BCM, J2/C2, pin 2tan/black stripHigh speed GMLAN serial data +Goes to PCM, C1, pin 1 (C1 is the blue connector on the PCM)
BCM, J2/C2, pin 20tanHigh speed GMLAN serial data -Goes to PCM, C1, pin 2

Here is the Cobalt high speed GMLAN from AllData.
 

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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
The green low speed GMLAN, I believe, is not daisy chained together like the high speed GMLAN. All your instrument cluster data is multiplexed onto the low speed wire and the gauge cluster decodes it.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The green low speed GMLAN, I believe, is not daisy chained together like the high speed GMLAN. All your instrument cluster data is multiplexed onto the low speed wire and the gauge cluster decodes it.
Oh. I am grateful for your insight.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Learning how to drive hard at an autocross event can have consequences. Good thing the Doyle Fabrication made the front/radiator support as a stand alone unit, for easy replacement in case of.... this. I guess I will find out if they stock it and new radiators, just in case I have a midwest spring meet in two weeks.
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Oh, my 19 year old who is discovering how well drag radials stick after driving thru a puddle. Luckily it was only his pride that got hurt. Well, that and my Goblin.
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JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Oh man... I hate that for you. Sorry.
I guess pushing the limits of a machine and operating at the limits of physics has its costs.
I hope it is all easily repairable.
 
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