RouteAbel's Extended Track Easy Entry - '10SS/TC build

G Atsma

Goblin Guru
It's not all on U-Haul. Once hooked up, whether you or the U-Haul rep does it, check everything. If necessary, shorten up the chains by twisting them, which is totally legit. If the chains are just slack enough to turn sharply, and crossed under the tongue, they should hold a loose trailer reasonably well. The customer (renter) needs to use a bit of their own diligence in something that could risk their own vehicle, besides the trailer.
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
It's not all on U-Haul. Once hooked up, whether you or the U-Haul rep does it, check everything. If necessary, shorten up the chains by twisting them, which is totally legit. If the chains are just slack enough to turn sharply, and crossed under the tongue, they should hold a loose trailer reasonably well. The customer (renter) needs to use a bit of their own diligence in something that could risk their own vehicle, besides the trailer.
Fair point. I didn't blame Uhaul at all. It was definitely a learning experience. I'll be checking all my hitches much more closely from now on.
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
FYI, Be sure your ball gets torqued to specs: "Curt recommends the use of 250 ft/lbs of torque when tightening the nuts of their hitch balls with a 1 inch diameter shank like the part # C40034. The general rule is for a 3/4" shank tighten to 150 ft/lbs For a 1" shank tighten to 250 ft/lbs, and for a 1-1/4 inch shank 450 ft/lbs."
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
FYI, Be sure your ball gets torqued to specs: "Curt recommends the use of 250 ft/lbs of torque when tightening the nuts of their hitch balls with a 1 inch diameter shank like the part # C40034. The general rule is for a 3/4" shank tighten to 150 ft/lbs For a 1" shank tighten to 250 ft/lbs, and for a 1-1/4 inch shank 450 ft/lbs."
450 ft/ lbs In laymen terminology that means a really long piece of pipe on your breaker bar. :)
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Reading this thread makes me count my blessings that I had no trouble towing my first donor with my self-installed hitch. >.>;;
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
Made some progress over the weekend. I'm feeling pretty space constrained sometimes its like jenga moving parts to get to other parts. With that in mind the more I can bolt on the car the better. I also had some "help" from my youngest son.

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I got the brake lines, clutch lines, pedal box, power steering, pedal box, brake booster, radiator, and gas tank mounted. I decided to order a new steering rack so that is on its way. I hoping to take off most of Thanksgiving week and make some progress on some of the engine and transmission work I need to do before mounting.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I like your chosen frame color. Was debating between going with a black (metallic? flat?) for the frame and just using the hood/engine cover/fenders to add color, or whether to just do the color on the frame. Also debating between a bunch of different schemes.

I have a weakness for Ford's Performance Red. I owned a 2000 Mustang GT in that color. https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+performance+red&sxsrf=ACYBGNTSy4yuIz1_M63-ZakEkORyt86k-A:1574094850878&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi7nLejmPTlAhXvp1kKHQ6GCPEQ_AUIEygC&biw=2459&bih=1131

Was debating an Eleanor theme as well, my first Mustang was painted like this: https://i1.wp.com/www.motoringresearch.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Barrett-Jackson-Scottsdale-2019-Eleanor-Ford-Mustang-001.jpg?resize=1500,1000&ssl=1

Sorry for musing in your thread. I just keep seeing different colors I love!!
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
I like your chosen frame color. Was debating between going with a black (metallic? flat?) for the frame and just using the hood/engine cover/fenders to add color, or whether to just do the color on the frame. Also debating between a bunch of different schemes.

I have a weakness for Ford's Performance Red. I owned a 2000 Mustang GT in that color. https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+performance+red&sxsrf=ACYBGNTSy4yuIz1_M63-ZakEkORyt86k-A:1574094850878&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi7nLejmPTlAhXvp1kKHQ6GCPEQ_AUIEygC&biw=2459&bih=1131

Was debating an Eleanor theme as well, my first Mustang was painted like this: https://i1.wp.com/www.motoringresearch.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Barrett-Jackson-Scottsdale-2019-Eleanor-Ford-Mustang-001.jpg?resize=1500,1000&ssl=1

Sorry for musing in your thread. I just keep seeing different colors I love!!
Muse away. I have a soft spot for Mustangs myself and I had a strong urge to recreate "The Batmobile" for my goblin but ultimately went a different direction.
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Do you plan to paint or powder-coat?

An Eleanor Goblin would be pretty sweet. I considered some similar but with a metallic champagne base and black racing stripes instead of the grey. Whatever you choose I recommend some metallic in there. Looks so much better than a flat color.

If you do decide to powder coat, take a look at prismatic powders. https://www.prismaticpowders.com/ They will send you send you 5-6 color swatches for free. They have a legit selection as well. In my case the match was spot on and in person result was even better than the sample.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I'm probably going to go with powder coating. I like the durability and I have a local powder coater that quoted me $300 for the frame. I'm sure it would creep up closer to $500 once I add in things like the fuel tank and BCM kickplate.

I have an internal urge to attempt painting it myself, but I don't want a rattle can job and I've got no experience painting cars with a professional gun. I want to learn, but something tells me my first painting project shouldn't be this. I want it done right, lol!
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
Running into a couple issues and uncertainties.

1. My steering shaft doesn't compress. In the videos it looks easy to install the steering shaft between the steering rack and whatever that contraption that holds the steering wheel. Mine fully articulates in all other directions but will not compress. Any tricks or tips? I haven't figured a way to install the steering mechanism or steering bracket that allows me to slip both sides on.

2. My radiator has the top valve off center where the videos show the top valve more centered. Do I need to compensate in the cut of the hose?

3. For the vacuum hose running from the brake booster to the back of the car my hose doesn't look like the video. The closest I can find is the hose below. In part 17 of the build guide they have us measure 6" from one end and then cut, measure 2" and cut again. I'm not sure what they do with the 6" piece later. They show using 2" to connect to brake booster. Is this a difference in in Turbo vs. N/A? or do I have the wrong hose? If so what is the hose called so I can order a new one.

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JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
Running into a couple issues and uncertainties.

1. My steering shaft doesn't compress. In the videos it looks easy to install the steering shaft between the steering rack and whatever that contraption that holds the steering wheel. Mine fully articulates in all other directions but will not compress. Any tricks or tips? I haven't figured a way to install the steering mechanism or steering bracket that allows me to slip both sides on.
My steering shaft was the same way. It is basically rusted together. It took me about two hours of work to get them apart and fully cleaned out. Use penetrating fluid and heat (torch). You'll need to rig up a way to pull the two pieces apart at the same time your heating the stuck area. Once apart, you'll need to work the two ends back and forth until it bottoms out and they move freely. Once finished you'll want to use anti-seize before final installation.
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
Our donor's steering shaft was quickly written off as a recalcitrant piece of junk.

The list of parts I am going to re-use off my rusty junk donor is dwindling every day.
 

Parson Green

Well-Known Member
Donor components also junked on our project included all four bearing hubs, the (front-on-the-donor) struts, the brake-fluid reservoir and the alloy control arms.

WRT vacuum lines, our kit included a roll of nylon-ish/semi-rigid(?) tubing which, in addition to the brake-booster-vacuum run is also suitable, as I recall, to convey brake fluid from the reservoir to your clutch and master cylinder.
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
Donor components also junked on our project included all four bearing hubs, the (front-on-the-donor) struts, the brake-fluid reservoir and the alloy control arms.

WRT vacuum lines, our kit included a roll of nylon-ish/semi-rigid(?) tubing which, in addition to the brake-booster-vacuum run is also suitable, as I recall, to convey brake fluid from the reservoir to your clutch and master cylinder.
Yes in the video they show cutting a 2 inch piece of original vacuum hose off to use as an adapter for the nylon roll. I can cut that out of the hose pictured, just not sure what it was for originally. Also in the video they cut off a 6" piece and say to set aside for later. I don't remember them ever doing anything with that piece later though.

Here is screenshot
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Parson Green

Well-Known Member
The vacuum and cooling-line installations are going to require a fair degree of creativity and initiative from the builder. In our case, I got so creative that I nearly ran out of hose clamps (did run out of those ~1" splice pipes and had to make a few extra). Ended up with a quite-satisfying result, though.
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the replies. I got the radiator plumbed in and made executive decision on the vacuum hose.I tried with the steering column but will be ordering a new one.
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
It's been a few months since I have updated the build log. I haven't been idle but have been going pretty slow cleaning up and rebuilding the motor a bit. I am finally ready to take it off the engine stand and mate it to the transmission. This has been a huge learning experience, which was the point but the more time I spent with the motor the more I wished I had bought a new crate motor.

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After

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