SACTX - Track - 07 SS/SC - Chassis #201
- Thread starter SACTX
- Start date
Brett
Well-Known Member
What? I was expecting countless headless cones!and we left plenty of cones standing to live another day!!!!!
SACTX
Well-Known Member
No cones were harmed in the making of these videos.
I started out going slow and just getting used to watching cones. By the last (10th run) I was seeing the course better and able to locate the new turn. Then, I threw out all strategy about taking one part wide to make the straight better or what not and just went at each cone.
Started out with a 64.541 and ended with a 58.925.
I started out going slow and just getting used to watching cones. By the last (10th run) I was seeing the course better and able to locate the new turn. Then, I threw out all strategy about taking one part wide to make the straight better or what not and just went at each cone.
Started out with a 64.541 and ended with a 58.925.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Really digging the color scheme and hood nice job.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
SACTX
Well-Known Member
These tweeters came with a mounting cup that I screwed to the frame with self tapping screws.Scott,
May I ask how you mounted the tweeter in this pic? Thank you in advance!
This is the tweeter that I used and I’m happy with them.Power Acoustik NB-4 250-Watt 4-Way Mount Tweeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4ZKUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_w7ARFGfjnRXwq
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Absolutely! I spent some time trying to figure out how to do it differently but I couldn’t get it done other ways.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
What are the two gauges behind the steering wheel? Also, for the Boss head unit, what did you use for the mounting plate!Time for an update.
There has been a lot going on in the last month. I've gotten a lot done and am still working on all of my subprojects....
My car officially weighs 1620lbs with a full tank of gas and all other fluids.
@Ark :D - I have an easier way to install the metal aftermarket shifting brackets. This will work for ANY of the 3/8-16 aftermarket shifter bracket connectors (ZZP, OTTP, etc.) and does not require any machining/welding/fabrication other than cutting all-thread. I have not installed mine yet but will. Purchase (2) of these adapters and about 1-2 feet of 3/8-16 threaded rod and a couple of 3/8" nuts from the local hardware store. The Adapters screw into the DF supplied shifter connectors. The 3/8-16 rod will go from the adapter to the shifter bracket. Mark and cut the threaded rod to length. Adjust and set lock nuts on the 3/8-16 rod to the adapter and bracket connectors so it can't move out of adjustment. DONE!
I have been having problems with the front steering rod ends and I ordered new ones. I was not able to tighten them enough into the steering bracket to get the cotter pin in. I'm going to replace them with new ones and see if it's the rod ends or the bracket. I'll let everyone know what I find out.
For those that haven't been following the titling in Texas thread, I've been going through that process and the goalposts have been moved a few times. I have passed everything except for the emissions inspection but I'm working on that now. I should have some good news later this week or next. I'll have a full write up on it once I'm done. Sidenote, clean the powdercoat off of the VIN before inspection. Big shout out to Russell (@Rttoys ) and Jason (@JBINTX ) for their help with this. Russell has been on point with letting me borrow his trailer to get my car inspected and other help figuring out the new stuff. I go from being happy to pass something to freaking out about something else and I'm sure they're getting sick of me talking about it. Thanks for the patience as well!
I've gotten the wing mounted and it is good. I like the size. It's big enough from the back but it's not overpowering from the other angles. It's PCI Racing 60" wing with their end caps. I painted the caps with Krylon Fusion Dark Metal Metallic. The scoops are painted the same color as well as my hood vents (more coming on these soon)
We test fit body panels and are semi-prepping for paint. Part for the State and part for me. I liked the gunmetal rattle can so much that I found a color to paint the body panels that is very close to the Krylon. It's similar but different enough that the pieces will stand out in certain light and blend in other light. It's Hyundai Mineral Gray Pearl.
I'm having trouble with my front scoops. Having never done fiberglass and thinking it was easy was a mistake. I've made many mistakes along the way and I'm just about to throw up my hands. I've got two more ideas to get it done and if they don't work, I'm going to go away from them.
I have the front/rear motorcycle dash camera mounted. I used a 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum angle and created a bracket to attach at the hood mount. It projects the screen out just enough that I can see it through the steering wheel and it'll act as a rear-view camera while recording both cameras. It's the MotoWolf M6 Plus. The cables are just long enough to go through the tunnel and mount right on the crossbar behind the driver's seat. I thought I had a picture of where I put them but I don't. I'll get one and update this post with it.
I found what I think is a good place for a head unit. I'm using the Boss Audio gauge-size bluetooth capable marine receiver. It's AM/FM/Bluetooth and it includes a USB charging dongle so I don't need any other USB ports to charge up accessories if needed. The shifter is in 5th gear in the photos to show location. I'll be hooking everything up tonight or tomorrow.
I made a full height windshield and bent it. It's 21 1/2" from the middle high spot to the top (I think). It's 1/4" thick impact and scratch resistant acrylic. I bent it on the car with a 1300 watt heat gun. I'm not happy with the bend and I'm going to redo it using a piece of aluminum angle as the bender so it's a more consistent bend. It'll only be for occasional use. I'll probably keep one at my house and one at my shop so I can swap it out if the weather changes (like it does often in Houston)....
Still on the list to work on:
-splitter
-side skirts/floor extensions
-rear diffuser (moving further back in my mind and may not go anywhere)
-chasing down a misc. leak from the motor/transmission area. I think the oil is overfilled because of the dual oil coolers and backflowing.
-painting body panels and mounting
-redoing my windshield bending.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
What is the Moto Wolf?
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Hey Jay,
The two gauges behind the steering wheel are these.
aeroforcetech.com
I used these mounts attached to a piece of alumalite that is mounted to the steering shaft mounting holes.
The radio mounting plate is a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum that I fabricated to hang off of the mounting screws for the stock gauge panel.
The MotoWolf is a motorcycle "dash" camera set up with front and rear viewing cameras and a small screen for viewing. It's my back up mirror and rear view mirror but it's kind of small for continuous use.
The two gauges behind the steering wheel are these.
Interceptor OBD2 Dual Gauge Chevrolet Cobalt 2.0L Supercharged 2005-20
Monitor your critical vehicle sensors and data on a set of compact 2 - 1/16” gauges for countless mounting options using our selection of pods or 3rd party pods. Includes 6’ cable and many hardware configurations to customize the appearance. Simply plugs in the OBD2 port for most application...
aeroforcetech.com
I used these mounts attached to a piece of alumalite that is mounted to the steering shaft mounting holes.
Amazon.com: GlowShift Universal Black Single Gauge Metal Dashboard Pod - Fits Any Make/Model - Mounts (1) 2-1/16" (52mm) Gauge to Vehicle's Dash : Automotive
Buy GlowShift Universal Black Single Gauge Metal Dashboard Pod - Fits Any Make/Model - Mounts (1) 2-1/16" (52mm) Gauge to Vehicle's Dash: Housing Pods - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
The radio mounting plate is a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum that I fabricated to hang off of the mounting screws for the stock gauge panel.
The MotoWolf is a motorcycle "dash" camera set up with front and rear viewing cameras and a small screen for viewing. It's my back up mirror and rear view mirror but it's kind of small for continuous use.
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SACTX
Well-Known Member
I did. It helps ALOT. I used duct tape to connect the cover to the fire wall and the upper side rails the used pipe insulation with tape to help seal up the other holes. I can tell when something isn't connected or covered. My windshield creates dead air that get's filled with the air from the front of the car if it's not sealed. Good thing in winter, not so much in warmer weather.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
1 1/2" or 2" pipe insulation around the shaft and tape to hold it in place. Sometimes it'll work itself loose and I'll have to redo it.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
While I'm at it, I might as well give an update. I have done in the last few months a lot and have some other stuff in the works.
With @Rttoys help, really he did all the legwork, I added a comfort series sway bar to the rear, changed out the front shocks, and added the brake balancer.
The sway bar was pretty easy and is pretty mild but considering our weight and spring rates it will help a lot. First impressions on it was great. The real test will come on race day.
The front shocks were changed to DS403's with the same QA1 progressive springs that I have on the back. It raised the front end 3/4" and helped to keep the throttle bouncing down. I love this combo up front. Smoother ride and more adjustment.
The brake balancer was added this last spring before the last autocross that I went to.
I changed out the front lower control arm brackets for the heavy duty ones. The ones I had must have bent on my first autocross with the wider tires. I had real alignment changes and I didn't look at those. I just changed the alignment back and went on my way. Well, they were bent pretty bad. My toe and camber settings were WAY off when I switch them out.
The rear diffuser was added and I think most people have seen that post. https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/high-speed-instability.3054/#post-60463
I finally installed the intercooler fan after experiencing some super heated drives home with some traffic. I also set up the Accessory switch on the dash to power the fans so I can turn them on early if I want and also have that switch running the intercooler pump. I direct wired the switch to the batter so I can turn off the car and keep the fans/pump going to cool off the car at autocross races.
I played around a lot with the rear end. The ride height has been all over the place. I started out a little lower than parallel with the ground, went super high, brought it down a little, offset the sides (Nascar style), and finally settled on about 1.6 degrees down angle on the tie rods. Raising the front end and lowering the rear helped to settle the rear down. It got really squirrely with the rear end up high like that.
I've moved my speakers around and changed the sound system. The system was good before but the speakers being as hidden as they were limited the sound quality. I moved one down in the footwell and pointed it rearward more. I moved the other one to right behind the gauge cluster.
I had to change my rear hubs. The passenger side had a "hitch" in it (basically the bearing raceway was bent or a bearing had a bad spot on it). I don't know if it was from racing or if it came that way. If you turn it just right, you can fill it wiggle a little. The tire could wiggle a little (about 1/8") if you got it in just the right place. I don't know how long it's been that way but it could have always been that way and what I though was bumpsteer was my tire wiggling all over the place, randomly. My quest to lessen bumpsteer may have been chasing ghosts. It's been much better since I changed it out. I changed the other out for good measure.
Projects in the future:
1. Still working on how to cut and manufacture a better windshield without the bubbles and weird bends at the bottom.
2. Custom 3" exhaust
3. Stage 2 Cams and Overdrive balancer
4. Working on my tune further. My current tune is very rich. You smell like unburnt gas after driving a lot. I can lean it out a lot and get more power. I'll probably fine tune it a little and really get down and dirty with it after the cams go in.
Back of mind kind of projects:
1. Taller wing mounts with integrated quick change angle adjustment (for those 60-120 second stops between autocross runs).
2. Vents or air control devices to get air behind the windshield when I want it. I'm looking at options to add vents to the windshield or in the hood/footwell cover.
3. Possible rear facing vents on the engine cover, fans connected to my switch, or more/bigger scoops for the engine bay. I finally installed the engine cover and the heat soak was pretty bad. Considering I have the full windshield, side panels, engine cover, and rear diffuser, there's not a lot of air movement going on around the engine. I like the cover and now don't want to take it off so I might need to figure out how to get the heat out.
Looking for a good fall/winter autocross season and looking at joining some HPDE events.
Thanks everyone!
SACTX
With @Rttoys help, really he did all the legwork, I added a comfort series sway bar to the rear, changed out the front shocks, and added the brake balancer.
The sway bar was pretty easy and is pretty mild but considering our weight and spring rates it will help a lot. First impressions on it was great. The real test will come on race day.
The front shocks were changed to DS403's with the same QA1 progressive springs that I have on the back. It raised the front end 3/4" and helped to keep the throttle bouncing down. I love this combo up front. Smoother ride and more adjustment.
The brake balancer was added this last spring before the last autocross that I went to.
I changed out the front lower control arm brackets for the heavy duty ones. The ones I had must have bent on my first autocross with the wider tires. I had real alignment changes and I didn't look at those. I just changed the alignment back and went on my way. Well, they were bent pretty bad. My toe and camber settings were WAY off when I switch them out.
The rear diffuser was added and I think most people have seen that post. https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/high-speed-instability.3054/#post-60463
I finally installed the intercooler fan after experiencing some super heated drives home with some traffic. I also set up the Accessory switch on the dash to power the fans so I can turn them on early if I want and also have that switch running the intercooler pump. I direct wired the switch to the batter so I can turn off the car and keep the fans/pump going to cool off the car at autocross races.
I played around a lot with the rear end. The ride height has been all over the place. I started out a little lower than parallel with the ground, went super high, brought it down a little, offset the sides (Nascar style), and finally settled on about 1.6 degrees down angle on the tie rods. Raising the front end and lowering the rear helped to settle the rear down. It got really squirrely with the rear end up high like that.
I've moved my speakers around and changed the sound system. The system was good before but the speakers being as hidden as they were limited the sound quality. I moved one down in the footwell and pointed it rearward more. I moved the other one to right behind the gauge cluster.
I had to change my rear hubs. The passenger side had a "hitch" in it (basically the bearing raceway was bent or a bearing had a bad spot on it). I don't know if it was from racing or if it came that way. If you turn it just right, you can fill it wiggle a little. The tire could wiggle a little (about 1/8") if you got it in just the right place. I don't know how long it's been that way but it could have always been that way and what I though was bumpsteer was my tire wiggling all over the place, randomly. My quest to lessen bumpsteer may have been chasing ghosts. It's been much better since I changed it out. I changed the other out for good measure.
Projects in the future:
1. Still working on how to cut and manufacture a better windshield without the bubbles and weird bends at the bottom.
2. Custom 3" exhaust
3. Stage 2 Cams and Overdrive balancer
4. Working on my tune further. My current tune is very rich. You smell like unburnt gas after driving a lot. I can lean it out a lot and get more power. I'll probably fine tune it a little and really get down and dirty with it after the cams go in.
Back of mind kind of projects:
1. Taller wing mounts with integrated quick change angle adjustment (for those 60-120 second stops between autocross runs).
2. Vents or air control devices to get air behind the windshield when I want it. I'm looking at options to add vents to the windshield or in the hood/footwell cover.
3. Possible rear facing vents on the engine cover, fans connected to my switch, or more/bigger scoops for the engine bay. I finally installed the engine cover and the heat soak was pretty bad. Considering I have the full windshield, side panels, engine cover, and rear diffuser, there's not a lot of air movement going on around the engine. I like the cover and now don't want to take it off so I might need to figure out how to get the heat out.
Looking for a good fall/winter autocross season and looking at joining some HPDE events.
Thanks everyone!
SACTX
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Scott, great progress on your upgrades. Your 2 lists are must do's to 'keep up with the Ross's' I would respond to add the DS air plenum to the underside of your hood, but it won't work with the footwell cover - not enough space between the two. Maybe put some small ducts into the side panels next to your knees that can be opened and closed as needed? My suggestion on the engine cover is to add louver panels - there are some good aluminum ones on ebay which have found their way onto my Jeep Rubicon. They can vent trapped heat out and allow for more engine bay air circulation.
I would respond to add the DS air plenum to the underside of your hood, but it won't work with the footwell cover - not enough space between the two. Maybe put some small ducts into the side panels next to your knees that can be opened and closed as needed? My suggestion on the engine cover is to add louver panels - there are some good aluminum ones on ebay which have found their way onto my Jeep Rubicon. They can vent trapped heat out and allow for more engine bay air circulation.