SACTX - Track - 07 SS/SC - Chassis #201
- Thread starter SACTX
- Start date
SACTX
Well-Known Member
I got my first start this weekend. Also got it up to full temp and I’m working on getting bubbles out of the air system and getting it to cool correctly.
I am getting some weirdness from my gauge cluster. There’s a video on the Facebook link. Anyone know what to check? I’ve seen this before but I can’t recall what it was.
I am getting some weirdness from my gauge cluster. There’s a video on the Facebook link. Anyone know what to check? I’ve seen this before but I can’t recall what it was.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Fixed it. After looking at the wiring diagrams again I realized I had checked the instrument cluster warning light for the key check and not the GMLAN circuit. Ran a jumper wire from the OBD connector to the number 38 pin on BCM to connector and everything works.
@Anks329 check pin 38 on the BCM 2 connector if you’re having the same issue.
@Ross after seeing how this all goes together first hand, try running a jumper wire from your cluster or OBDII port directly to pin 38 and connect them in parallel and see if maybe you have a loose connection somewhere. It doesn’t look like you lose power just data…
@Anks329 check pin 38 on the BCM 2 connector if you’re having the same issue.
@Ross after seeing how this all goes together first hand, try running a jumper wire from your cluster or OBDII port directly to pin 38 and connect them in parallel and see if maybe you have a loose connection somewhere. It doesn’t look like you lose power just data…
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SACTX
Well-Known Member
This is what I read to figure out where the problem was. Anyone with a cluster issue should look up this document. You can use it to semi diagnose where your problem is by reading through all of the specifics of each error.
In my case the only thing common with all 4 errors, no tachometer, no speedometer, no fuel gauge, and the lines on the information display, all pointed to a problem from the cluster to the BCM.
In my case the only thing common with all 4 errors, no tachometer, no speedometer, no fuel gauge, and the lines on the information display, all pointed to a problem from the cluster to the BCM.
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SACTX
Well-Known Member
Time for an update.
I had a lot going on in the last couple of weeks.
~All of my oil cooler lines and the coolers are working correctly. They're tight under the car with everything else going in there.
~Aerometer gauges are hooked up and functional. I used a piece of Alumilite for the bracket and shimmed down the back of the steering rack to get some more space and relieve some tension on the system.
~Tail lights and 3rd brake light is installed. I used a motorcycle rear light. It has turn signal and brake lights. It's pretty cool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YNYMH4P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
~Button panels are installed. Quick and easy!
~I used an aftermarket coolant expansion tank and it didn't fit the GM cap. I was originally going to run it vented but after talking with Russell and Jason I figured on adding a 15PSI pressure relief valve and wrapped it in coolant line hose to keep it from blowing hot air/coolant into the air. I'll let everyone know how it goes. It might be a fix for people wanting to use the engine cover or who damage the stock tank (like I did).
~For the intercooler fill/surge tank I used an Edelbrock tank from Good-Win racing. It's a little larger and very easy to use. It's a replacement tank for a supercharger system for an ND Miata.
~The rear end is built and the car is on the ground. I had to have the trailing control arm bushings pressed in. I couldn't get them to go on my own. That was a whole wasted couple of days and some frustration.
~My calipers are EXTREMELY close to rubbing on the backside of the rotors. I need to look at that. They don't touch but it's hard to see how. It looks like they're touching just eyeballing it.
~I need to confirm routing of the emergency brake lines. They work now but I think I need to modify the bracket that holds the cables to the coilover. If they move a little, they'll rub the inside of the wheel.
~I installed some footwell LED lighting.
~I'll be installing a watercraft sound system. It's a Boss audio set up with 4" 3 way speakers (installed under the hood right now), an 8" low profile sub (either behind the passenger seat or foot rest), and a 3 1/2" round receiver. I'm working on the location for the receiver.
I think I have a fix for the aftermarket shifter clamps that does not require any welding or modification of existing components. I'm going to be working on all of that this week and will include a full write up if everything works like I think it will.
A note on fuel lines. Make sure to get high pressure fuel lines, at least that's what I had to ask for. Fuel started leaking from the standard 3.4 bar fuel lines that I ran. I looked them up after the fact and they are listed to be used as return lines and evap lines. They're the typical stuff that I got when I asked for fuel line at the local autoparts store.
Get https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-3-8-inch-i-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-fuel-hose/27346/4349955/2007/chevrolet/cobalt?q=bulk+hose+-+fuel+hose&pos=8
Not https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/safety-stripe-ii-3753/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-safety-stripe-ii-3-8-inch-i-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-fuel-hose/27004/4348870/2007/chevrolet/cobalt?q=bulk+hose+-+fuel+hose&pos=0
This week will be finishing the tunnel, shifter, and hand brake. I need to bleed the brakes and clutch as well. Working towards a first drive...
Baby Girl Approves!!!
I had a lot going on in the last couple of weeks.
~All of my oil cooler lines and the coolers are working correctly. They're tight under the car with everything else going in there.
~Aerometer gauges are hooked up and functional. I used a piece of Alumilite for the bracket and shimmed down the back of the steering rack to get some more space and relieve some tension on the system.
~Tail lights and 3rd brake light is installed. I used a motorcycle rear light. It has turn signal and brake lights. It's pretty cool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YNYMH4P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
~Button panels are installed. Quick and easy!
~I used an aftermarket coolant expansion tank and it didn't fit the GM cap. I was originally going to run it vented but after talking with Russell and Jason I figured on adding a 15PSI pressure relief valve and wrapped it in coolant line hose to keep it from blowing hot air/coolant into the air. I'll let everyone know how it goes. It might be a fix for people wanting to use the engine cover or who damage the stock tank (like I did).
~For the intercooler fill/surge tank I used an Edelbrock tank from Good-Win racing. It's a little larger and very easy to use. It's a replacement tank for a supercharger system for an ND Miata.
Replacement surge tank for Edelbrock supercharger for MX5-ND 2016-2018
Street, Autocross and Track Performance for your Mazda, Fiat 124, Toyota-Subaru BRZ/FRS/86.
www.good-win-racing.com
~The rear end is built and the car is on the ground. I had to have the trailing control arm bushings pressed in. I couldn't get them to go on my own. That was a whole wasted couple of days and some frustration.
~My calipers are EXTREMELY close to rubbing on the backside of the rotors. I need to look at that. They don't touch but it's hard to see how. It looks like they're touching just eyeballing it.
~I need to confirm routing of the emergency brake lines. They work now but I think I need to modify the bracket that holds the cables to the coilover. If they move a little, they'll rub the inside of the wheel.
~I installed some footwell LED lighting.
~I'll be installing a watercraft sound system. It's a Boss audio set up with 4" 3 way speakers (installed under the hood right now), an 8" low profile sub (either behind the passenger seat or foot rest), and a 3 1/2" round receiver. I'm working on the location for the receiver.
I think I have a fix for the aftermarket shifter clamps that does not require any welding or modification of existing components. I'm going to be working on all of that this week and will include a full write up if everything works like I think it will.
A note on fuel lines. Make sure to get high pressure fuel lines, at least that's what I had to ask for. Fuel started leaking from the standard 3.4 bar fuel lines that I ran. I looked them up after the fact and they are listed to be used as return lines and evap lines. They're the typical stuff that I got when I asked for fuel line at the local autoparts store.
Get https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-3-8-inch-i-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-fuel-hose/27346/4349955/2007/chevrolet/cobalt?q=bulk+hose+-+fuel+hose&pos=8
Not https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/safety-stripe-ii-3753/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-safety-stripe-ii-3-8-inch-i-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-fuel-hose/27004/4348870/2007/chevrolet/cobalt?q=bulk+hose+-+fuel+hose&pos=0
This week will be finishing the tunnel, shifter, and hand brake. I need to bleed the brakes and clutch as well. Working towards a first drive...
Baby Girl Approves!!!
Attachments
Last edited:
Vwsaabvt
Goblin Guru
put a washer between the bracket and knuckle
post #61
Rabid Sloth Racing's '06 SS/SC full-caged street Goblin
It was dead-on 1.25". I ended up doing the same trick Karter did and it all fits now.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Here you go. Change finishes as you see fit.Your shifter rods are interesting. More info please.
Add a lock nut on one end or both to make sure that it doesn't loosen up or adjust while using. I haven't tried it yet so it may need some changes.
The two adapters together are almost the exact same length as the smooth part of the shortest rod that DF supplies. Length of the threaded rods will need to be adjusted to fit and then fine adjustment is taken up at the aftermarket clamps or by spreading out the two adapters.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Thank you!put a washer between the bracket and knuckle
post #61
Rabid Sloth Racing's '06 SS/SC full-caged street Goblin
It was dead-on 1.25". I ended up doing the same trick Karter did and it all fits now.dfkitcar.com
Jason sent this to me a little earlier as well.
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
I don’t have this plugged in, and I don’t think I have the box at all. Lonny said it’s a key receiver, but I can start my car without it.
Do I need this?
SACTX
Well-Known Member
No, you do not. It's for the remote control door locks and remote starting. I do not have it and didn't keep it.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
First drive in the books!
Videos:
Videos:
Attachments
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Time for an update.
There has been a lot going on in the last month. I've gotten a lot done and am still working on all of my subprojects....
My car officially weighs 1620lbs with a full tank of gas and all other fluids.
@Ark :D - I have an easier way to install the metal aftermarket shifting brackets. This will work for ANY of the 3/8-16 aftermarket shifter bracket connectors (ZZP, OTTP, etc.) and does not require any machining/welding/fabrication other than cutting all-thread. I have not installed mine yet but will. Purchase (2) of these adapters and about 1-2 feet of 3/8-16 threaded rod and a couple of 3/8" nuts from the local hardware store. The Adapters screw into the DF supplied shifter connectors. The 3/8-16 rod will go from the adapter to the shifter bracket. Mark and cut the threaded rod to length. Adjust and set lock nuts on the 3/8-16 rod to the adapter and bracket connectors so it can't move out of adjustment. DONE!
I have been having problems with the front steering rod ends and I ordered new ones. I was not able to tighten them enough into the steering bracket to get the cotter pin in. I'm going to replace them with new ones and see if it's the rod ends or the bracket. I'll let everyone know what I find out.
For those that haven't been following the titling in Texas thread, I've been going through that process and the goalposts have been moved a few times. I have passed everything except for the emissions inspection but I'm working on that now. I should have some good news later this week or next. I'll have a full write up on it once I'm done. Sidenote, clean the powdercoat off of the VIN before inspection. Big shout out to Russell (@Rttoys ) and Jason (@JBINTX ) for their help with this. Russell has been on point with letting me borrow his trailer to get my car inspected and other help figuring out the new stuff. I go from being happy to pass something to freaking out about something else and I'm sure they're getting sick of me talking about it. Thanks for the patience as well!
I've gotten the wing mounted and it is good. I like the size. It's big enough from the back but it's not overpowering from the other angles. It's PCI Racing 60" wing with their end caps. I painted the caps with Krylon Fusion Dark Metal Metallic. The scoops are painted the same color as well as my hood vents (more coming on these soon)
We test fit body panels and are semi-prepping for paint. Part for the State and part for me. I liked the gunmetal rattle can so much that I found a color to paint the body panels that is very close to the Krylon. It's similar but different enough that the pieces will stand out in certain light and blend in other light. It's Hyundai Mineral Gray Pearl.
I'm having trouble with my front scoops. Having never done fiberglass and thinking it was easy was a mistake. I've made many mistakes along the way and I'm just about to throw up my hands. I've got two more ideas to get it done and if they don't work, I'm going to go away from them.
I have the front/rear motorcycle dash camera mounted. I used a 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum angle and created a bracket to attach at the hood mount. It projects the screen out just enough that I can see it through the steering wheel and it'll act as a rear-view camera while recording both cameras. It's the MotoWolf M6 Plus. The cables are just long enough to go through the tunnel and mount right on the crossbar behind the driver's seat. I thought I had a picture of where I put them but I don't. I'll get one and update this post with it.
I found what I think is a good place for a head unit. I'm using the Boss Audio gauge-size bluetooth capable marine receiver. It's AM/FM/Bluetooth and it includes a USB charging dongle so I don't need any other USB ports to charge up accessories if needed. The shifter is in 5th gear in the photos to show location. I'll be hooking everything up tonight or tomorrow.
I made a full height windshield and bent it. It's 21 1/2" from the middle high spot to the top (I think). It's 1/4" thick impact and scratch resistant acrylic. I bent it on the car with a 1300 watt heat gun. I'm not happy with the bend and I'm going to redo it using a piece of aluminum angle as the bender so it's a more consistent bend. It'll only be for occasional use. I'll probably keep one at my house and one at my shop so I can swap it out if the weather changes (like it does often in Houston)....
Still on the list to work on:
-splitter
-side skirts/floor extensions
-rear diffuser (moving further back in my mind and may not go anywhere)
-chasing down a misc. leak from the motor/transmission area. I think the oil is overfilled because of the dual oil coolers and backflowing.
-painting body panels and mounting
-redoing my windshield bending.
There has been a lot going on in the last month. I've gotten a lot done and am still working on all of my subprojects....
My car officially weighs 1620lbs with a full tank of gas and all other fluids.
@Ark :D - I have an easier way to install the metal aftermarket shifting brackets. This will work for ANY of the 3/8-16 aftermarket shifter bracket connectors (ZZP, OTTP, etc.) and does not require any machining/welding/fabrication other than cutting all-thread. I have not installed mine yet but will. Purchase (2) of these adapters and about 1-2 feet of 3/8-16 threaded rod and a couple of 3/8" nuts from the local hardware store. The Adapters screw into the DF supplied shifter connectors. The 3/8-16 rod will go from the adapter to the shifter bracket. Mark and cut the threaded rod to length. Adjust and set lock nuts on the 3/8-16 rod to the adapter and bracket connectors so it can't move out of adjustment. DONE!
I have been having problems with the front steering rod ends and I ordered new ones. I was not able to tighten them enough into the steering bracket to get the cotter pin in. I'm going to replace them with new ones and see if it's the rod ends or the bracket. I'll let everyone know what I find out.
For those that haven't been following the titling in Texas thread, I've been going through that process and the goalposts have been moved a few times. I have passed everything except for the emissions inspection but I'm working on that now. I should have some good news later this week or next. I'll have a full write up on it once I'm done. Sidenote, clean the powdercoat off of the VIN before inspection. Big shout out to Russell (@Rttoys ) and Jason (@JBINTX ) for their help with this. Russell has been on point with letting me borrow his trailer to get my car inspected and other help figuring out the new stuff. I go from being happy to pass something to freaking out about something else and I'm sure they're getting sick of me talking about it. Thanks for the patience as well!
I've gotten the wing mounted and it is good. I like the size. It's big enough from the back but it's not overpowering from the other angles. It's PCI Racing 60" wing with their end caps. I painted the caps with Krylon Fusion Dark Metal Metallic. The scoops are painted the same color as well as my hood vents (more coming on these soon)
We test fit body panels and are semi-prepping for paint. Part for the State and part for me. I liked the gunmetal rattle can so much that I found a color to paint the body panels that is very close to the Krylon. It's similar but different enough that the pieces will stand out in certain light and blend in other light. It's Hyundai Mineral Gray Pearl.
I'm having trouble with my front scoops. Having never done fiberglass and thinking it was easy was a mistake. I've made many mistakes along the way and I'm just about to throw up my hands. I've got two more ideas to get it done and if they don't work, I'm going to go away from them.
I have the front/rear motorcycle dash camera mounted. I used a 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum angle and created a bracket to attach at the hood mount. It projects the screen out just enough that I can see it through the steering wheel and it'll act as a rear-view camera while recording both cameras. It's the MotoWolf M6 Plus. The cables are just long enough to go through the tunnel and mount right on the crossbar behind the driver's seat. I thought I had a picture of where I put them but I don't. I'll get one and update this post with it.
I found what I think is a good place for a head unit. I'm using the Boss Audio gauge-size bluetooth capable marine receiver. It's AM/FM/Bluetooth and it includes a USB charging dongle so I don't need any other USB ports to charge up accessories if needed. The shifter is in 5th gear in the photos to show location. I'll be hooking everything up tonight or tomorrow.
I made a full height windshield and bent it. It's 21 1/2" from the middle high spot to the top (I think). It's 1/4" thick impact and scratch resistant acrylic. I bent it on the car with a 1300 watt heat gun. I'm not happy with the bend and I'm going to redo it using a piece of aluminum angle as the bender so it's a more consistent bend. It'll only be for occasional use. I'll probably keep one at my house and one at my shop so I can swap it out if the weather changes (like it does often in Houston)....
Still on the list to work on:
-splitter
-side skirts/floor extensions
-rear diffuser (moving further back in my mind and may not go anywhere)
-chasing down a misc. leak from the motor/transmission area. I think the oil is overfilled because of the dual oil coolers and backflowing.
-painting body panels and mounting
-redoing my windshield bending.
Attachments
Last edited:
SACTX
Well-Known Member
I have not been able to swap them out yet. Looking at them, I am positive that they are different but not confident that they will change anything.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Time for an update. It's been pretty slow because of going through the titling process.
I can now say that as of Thursday the 19th of November, Goblin #201 is titled and registered in Texas. Woohoo!
I haven't really built or modified anything in the last few weeks.
The full windshield was a great add. I drove it about 100 miles without a windshield and just my glasses. I got sandblasted on these highways. Our drive yesterday was much more enjoyable with it on.
I'm working on HP tuners to get my tune dialed in (and learning how to tune ) before changing the supercharger and going to a boost reference fuel system.
I need to do the timing chain upkeep that I put off during the build.
The weather looks to be cooling off and getting nasty for the next few weeks so I should be getting some other stuff completed since driving will be out for the most part. I plan to paint the hood, sides, and engine cover in the next week or so. The bottom plates and splitter will be going on over the Thanksgiving weekend.
@JBINTX , @Rttoys , and I went for a long drive this last weekend. It was amazing! I've put on 350 miles in the last 8 days. Everyone of them enjoyable as hell.
I can now say that as of Thursday the 19th of November, Goblin #201 is titled and registered in Texas. Woohoo!
I haven't really built or modified anything in the last few weeks.
The full windshield was a great add. I drove it about 100 miles without a windshield and just my glasses. I got sandblasted on these highways. Our drive yesterday was much more enjoyable with it on.
I'm working on HP tuners to get my tune dialed in (and learning how to tune
) before changing the supercharger and going to a boost reference fuel system.I need to do the timing chain upkeep that I put off during the build.
The weather looks to be cooling off and getting nasty for the next few weeks so I should be getting some other stuff completed since driving will be out for the most part. I plan to paint the hood, sides, and engine cover in the next week or so. The bottom plates and splitter will be going on over the Thanksgiving weekend.
@JBINTX , @Rttoys , and I went for a long drive this last weekend. It was amazing! I've put on 350 miles in the last 8 days. Everyone of them enjoyable as hell.
