Ross
Goblin Guru
You running race gas or e85? I thought a 2.7" pulley puts you beyond 93 octane fuel.
SC Rebuild
- Thread starter jamesm
- Start date
Vwsaabvt
Goblin Guru
send your head and supercharger to Josh at Category 5 Portworx for some porting
The easiest way to 300hp on the lsj is the entry level turbo swap kit from zzp. $1500ish and it puts the k04 from the 08-10 SS on the lsj using the new header, and the SC is replaced with an end plate for your throttle body. You’ll hit 300hp just fine on stock internals. But definitely do the maintenance items @Ross indicated.
The kit will come with 80# injectors at the $1500 price point. You’ll want to add the dual pass end plate as mentioned previously and then the tune from zzp will get you rolling, but best to have a local dyno tune performed to get you to the 300hp safely.
If you’re going to do a full strip and rebuild, the obvious new bolts and bearings all around will be required. Might as well (if it’s in budget) get the ARP studs for the top and bottom ends instead of the factory torque to yield bolts. This way in the future when you do another rebuild for stronger pistons and rods for that 400whp monster build, you won’t need to buy new bolts there. Highly recommended using ARP Ultra-Torque during the rebuild for at least the major bolts. It was a very noticeable difference just hand threading in the bolts with and without the lube feeling the drag on the threads. It does exactly what it’s supposed to and that’s a more accurately torqued bolt/nut.
The kit will come with 80# injectors at the $1500 price point. You’ll want to add the dual pass end plate as mentioned previously and then the tune from zzp will get you rolling, but best to have a local dyno tune performed to get you to the 300hp safely.
If you’re going to do a full strip and rebuild, the obvious new bolts and bearings all around will be required. Might as well (if it’s in budget) get the ARP studs for the top and bottom ends instead of the factory torque to yield bolts. This way in the future when you do another rebuild for stronger pistons and rods for that 400whp monster build, you won’t need to buy new bolts there. Highly recommended using ARP Ultra-Torque during the rebuild for at least the major bolts. It was a very noticeable difference just hand threading in the bolts with and without the lube feeling the drag on the threads. It does exactly what it’s supposed to and that’s a more accurately torqued bolt/nut.
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ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
I recently had ZZP remote tune with HP tuners my LSJ a 2.7 was experiencing more then comfortable levels of intake temp. I was at the limit of my tune with #60 injectors so we swapped to e85 and a 3.0 pulley the engine is performing much stronger and intake temps have come down. My next step are #80 springs/retainers, cams, possibly port/polish, and Siemens #80 injectors and back to 2.7 pulley on e85. No doubt I will be close to 300WHP. Looks like if ZZP port/polish head its close to $1400 after shipping what have you all paid local shops?
I was a shmuck and paid the inflated ZZP price. Didn’t like the machine shops around me so never gave them a chance. One thing to consider is their ported head comes with 82# springs installed
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
Gosh, I really enjoy all of this technical data 
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Exactly I am on Phase 3 and so far its been an awesome experience for the wallet and power gain in increments. I always prefer small jumps to keep the excitement up in addition to ZZP and DF always adds quality of life improvements.
CodyP
Well-Known Member
If you're dropping pulley sizes you definitely need to address cooling sooner than later. A stage 3 intercooler or equivalent. A phenolic spacer for the intake manifold helps keep the engine heat from transferring to the intake. And you don't need to port the intake manifold, just the head and sc if you choose. Most porting is done on the exhaust side(which is the restrictive side) to match the intake. You can however polish the intake manifold while you have it apart to do the dual pass endplate. You can get the SC ported to use the larger ls4 throttle body and move more air, which I think is especially beneficial if you're going to a smaller pulley. So if it were me, and you wanted more oomph and to maintain driveability:
Phase 1:
Address timing issues
60# injectors for 93 or 80# for e85
If going e85 then boost reference fuel pressure system to help with idle surge of larger injectors
Dual pass endplate(you can diy this for cheap)
Phenolic spacer
Option b tank
S3 heat exchanger or equivalent
2.8 or larger pulley which requires all of the above(2.7 requires cams according to ZZP)
SC porting(Category V Portworx is highly recommended and does excellent work, Josh Billheimer with them can also do your head, but I would save that for phase 2)
LS4 throttle body
AEP Wideband o2 sensor, needed to tune(30-0300 seems to be the sensor of choice on the forum)
Something that you might also look into, which I'll be doing, is adding a "interchiller/killer chiller". You keep the ac compressor and run a brazed plate heat exchanger to super cool the intercooler air temperature. Can't speak on how well it works yet, but if it works for the Dodge Demon why not the DF Goblin? Haha. Here's a link to diy if you're interested:
Also here is the screenshot of the zzp stage 3 kit which shows how you should select the pulley size.
Phase 1:
Address timing issues
60# injectors for 93 or 80# for e85
If going e85 then boost reference fuel pressure system to help with idle surge of larger injectors
Dual pass endplate(you can diy this for cheap)
Phenolic spacer
Option b tank
S3 heat exchanger or equivalent
2.8 or larger pulley which requires all of the above(2.7 requires cams according to ZZP)
SC porting(Category V Portworx is highly recommended and does excellent work, Josh Billheimer with them can also do your head, but I would save that for phase 2)
LS4 throttle body
AEP Wideband o2 sensor, needed to tune(30-0300 seems to be the sensor of choice on the forum)
Something that you might also look into, which I'll be doing, is adding a "interchiller/killer chiller". You keep the ac compressor and run a brazed plate heat exchanger to super cool the intercooler air temperature. Can't speak on how well it works yet, but if it works for the Dodge Demon why not the DF Goblin? Haha. Here's a link to diy if you're interested:
The Thrill Chiller V2 (Killer/Inter DIY) - MBWorld.org Forums
W211 AMG - The Thrill Chiller V2 (Killer/Inter DIY) - Recently I have decided the price for the chiller kits are absurd, these are 100% packaged kits with no custom parts marked up a ton so I have put together a full parts list for any one that would like to do this themselves. Some credit to...
mbworld.org
Also here is the screenshot of the zzp stage 3 kit which shows how you should select the pulley size.
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