Shifter Cable Mount

Ross

Goblin Guru
7567

Is this plastic shifter going to work? The bolt holes align, but the "white reverse forks" prevent me from bolting it down.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I believe there are standoff spacers that raise the shifter to allow the forward rods to connect to the reversing mechanism and the actuation cables going back to the transmission to run under the shifter. Check some of the other build threads for this information and photos.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Also looks like the front inside edge of your seat may interfere with the mounting of the shifter when it is raised to clear the cables.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Your should have some black plastic spacers that came with your kit. Also it helps to cut the front of your shifter housing off to allow the push rods to clear.
7568
 

Astraeus

Member
Anyone have a nice clear photo of how this linkage is supposed to go using the new attachment method? All of my little rod ends (circled in red) are internally left hand thread, there wasn't enough hardware to use the right hand threaded end of the little rods to attach to the stock shifter (I had some on hand), and neither end of my shifter cables is left hand thread.

7605
 

Astraeus

Member
So I can't install these parts like this because all of my rod ends are left hand threads. They only thread on to one end of the rods on the top in this photo, and don't thread onto either end of the shift cables. Something isn't right.
Just talked to Lonny, and it sounds like their hardware vendor messed up and I got the wrong parts. They are all supposed to be right hand thread for anyone else that has this issue.
 

Jlarson524

Active Member
When I bought my short throw shifter I got the linkages too. I think it was 60$ for both. I got them from ottp. I heard the oem ones break or the white plastic piece falls apart. I forget where I read it Haha. It looks like they will be harder to adjust though View attachment 4723
View attachment 4724
LOOKING INTO THESE ON THE WEBSITE I HAVE FOUND 2... 1 SAYS...
OTTP Cable Clamp for Cobalt SS SC/TC
THE OTHER SAYS...
OTTP Side Mount Cable Clamp for Cobalt SS SC/TC
DO I NEED TO PURCHASE BOTH?
 

Lethalcast

Well-Known Member
LOOKING INTO THESE ON THE WEBSITE I HAVE FOUND 2... 1 SAYS...
OTTP Cable Clamp for Cobalt SS SC/TC
THE OTHER SAYS...
OTTP Side Mount Cable Clamp for Cobalt SS SC/TC
DO I NEED TO PURCHASE BOTH?
I couldnt use them, the diameter is different from the supplied rods. Forgot to remove it but I'm sure someone on here couldnt figure it out.
 
Last edited:

ZacMaster

Well-Known Member
I, too, got confused by the left hand threads but just noticed Lonny’s earlier post with this picture.

Looks like the left hand threads are used with left hand nuts into the oem plastic connectors (but with the locking tabs removed).

Lonny’s picture:

A56D9399-3510-48F2-85B8-BDB9289558ED.png


My shifter, before I’ve removed the plastic tabs:

D9CFF60E-9177-46C4-ABC6-EDC21C869C43.jpeg


This is like a big jigsaw puzzle/riddle. So much fun!
 

ZacMaster

Well-Known Member
Looks like the hardware supplied doesn’t have enough left hand thread nuts, so you’re supposed to use these small collars which butt up against the flats in the middle of the turnbuckle rod.

24A58A51-5351-4A36-8B99-57B0BA8D75F8.jpeg


I have my bellcrank pieces facing the same direction because the rods then line up perfectly in the shifter plastic. I know some people are cutting off the front of the shifter assembly. Should I follow suit or leave them like this?
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
This is apparently not true.
I read this and threw mine away. Now I need one! :)
The earlier build did not use the factory linkages. There were heim joints supplies that mounted to the shifter. It's hard to see in this photo. DF changed over to using the factory connections - if this is what everyone is referring to "brackets".

9093
 
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