Side panel attachment points.

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
I’m looking to weld tabs on my lower tubes to attach the side panels. Does anyone know how many I’ll need and how big they should be
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Make the tabs 1.5" tall, 1" wide, drill a hole near the top, insert rivnut. You need 4 on the lower rail, 4 on the top rail, on both sides.
PS, this is just my 2 cent guess. I only see 2 mounting points on my stock frame.

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Ross

Goblin Guru
I went to my shop, and there are only 2 mounting points per side. The stock mounting points are 1.25" x 1.25".
I guess most people drill their top frame rail, maybe drill the side frame tubes, and use a spacer to get them to the outside dimension.
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The tubes with the blue lines go all the way out to the outer edge, so you could drill anywhere in the blue line, no spacer needed.
Those smaller tubes could be drilled if you use a spacer.
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Conclusion: DF already has 5 mounting points on the bottom, and you could have as many as you want on the top. Add extra mounting points if you want them.
 
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PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member
Any concerns with putting M3 or M4 rivnuts in the tubs? Will the holes weaken the chassis? I love the idea of the side panels being removable.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
I guess you are technically creating a stress point but I can’t imagine a small hole causing much trouble. My side panels are attached with self tapping screws
 

Lokian

Well-Known Member
I did rivnuts and enlarge the holes on the panels to float a little better. Will add on foam tape on the frame prior to install and after I wrapped the panels.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I’m struggling with this right now. I want completely flush side panels on the outside with no drill-through mounting hardware. I was thinking about epoxying the fasteners to the side panels. Still trying to figure out if I want to use neodymium magnets or just simple fasteners.
 

PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member
Someone else mentioned using adel clamps (coated hose clamps). I think I may go this route since I'll be wrapping the panels and the predrilled holes won't be that noticable.
 

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Someone else mentioned using adel clamps (coated hose clamps). I think I may go this route since I'll be wrapping the panels and the predrilled holes won't be that noticable.
Something like this might work.

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jamesm

Goblin Guru
Those clamps should work fine. You'll want some foam or something between the panel and the frame to keep them from rattling.
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
I was put in m4 riv-nuts because when I looked at the m3 screws they looked so tiny so I picked up m4. Then once I laid everything out the m4 riv-nuts looked so big. When I looked it up it looks like I have to drill a 6mm hole to install them and that made me a bit concerned so now I’m wondering if m3 will be strong enough?
 

Lando217

Well-Known Member
Another question I just thought of. Will the walls of the tubes be to thick for a m3 to clamp into?
Iv mounted other items stright to my frame with one m4 riv nut. I have noticed that the riv tool doesn’t close all the way it should and I was assuming it was cause of a thicker material of the tube. The riv nut was still super stiff and I was to able to tighten the bolt well. For the longevity of the application, I couldn’t say. As I am writing this post I am wondering if there is something that can be adjusted for thicker walls... lol
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I’ve decided to go with epoxy mounted studs on the panel side, and weld in 8 flat points to the frame, using 1/4” thick neoprene rubber bushings for vibration isolation between the panel & frame. I will braze over the existing side panel rivet holes, so the side panels will be completely smooth to make vinyl wrap simple.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Given the wall thickness of the tubing and the small diameter of the attachment screws, one could also drill and tap holes directly in the frame without using any rivnuts or inserts.
 
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