Ross
Goblin Guru
Clutch throw out bearing bolts for a F35? Those stock bolts were a pain to get out, but the normal allan head ones I replaced them with are working great.
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Ross, those are the ones. I don't want to reuse the ones that came out either. I've been waiting for some that I ordered nearly a month ago. Apparently there are some in Canada but they are stuck somewhere. I looked for some at the local auto-parts stores but they only had normal bolt heads which won't fit into the recess in the throwout bearing. Did you use the Summit racing parts you have a link to? They seem shorter than what came out. I'll try running to a hardware store this morning to see if there are any socket head cap screws available there in approximately the right size. I wish I had seen your post earlier. Thanks.Clutch throw out bearing bolts for a F35? Those stock bolts were a pain to get out, but the normal allan head ones I replaced them with are working great.
Maybe you have a bolt supply store near you? The threads are a normal metric thread, it is just the allen head that makes them harder to find. I'm lucky to have a Fastenal, Bolt & Screw Supply Inc and Ace hardware near me. Ebay will have them too.
I was able to get some M6 socket head cap screws this morning. Plan to restart putting it back together this afternoon. Thanks!Grainger is another possible source and can be cheaper than a lot of places for buying more than 1 or 2, if you order online and ship to store.
The gap between the tank and the retaining ring is a little more than 1/4”.There may be some trimming needed to get the pump all tightened down and fitting well. I had to trim the top metal ring to make clearance with the mounting angle. You definitely want that big O-ring squished to the 1/4" clearance per the video.
Yep. The plastic will remove quickly with a grinder or sander.The gap between the tank and the retaining ring is a little more than 1/4”.
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The plastic flange crushes against the nuts leaving the o-ring squeezed to 5/32”.
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I guess the next step would be to mill into the pump flange enough that it sits inside the nuts rather than on the nuts. Thoughts?
Pinch the tunnel sides inward slightly, then you won't have to grind off any of your new powder coating.An updated report... After returning from the US Grand Prix I focused on getting the engine ready for install into the chassis. I was able to get the wire harness reconnected and didn't have many extra connectors left over. On Friday night the 19 year old was home from college so she, my wife, and I got the engine into the chassis. Woo hoo!
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On Saturday we worked on the fuse box, vacuum lines, and coolant lines. Some observations:
- I was concerned that in the video it talked about soldering a wire to the engine harness. HOWEVER, DF made it much easier with a blade connector provided to crimp into the engine harness to make the connection. Piece of cake.
- I was a little confused with mounting the fuse box as I had hardware to mount it per the video (a small angle and a coated clamp) but there was a piece welded to the frame at that location. So I used the piece welded to the frame.
Once all those connectors were connected up, I installed the battery and we tested the electronics. we had lights, turn signals, and a horn. And the instrument cluster worked as well. Woo hoo!
I then connected the fuel pump and added coolant and fuel. I tried to start it, and it would turn over but not crank. Hmmm... kept working on other things and thought about it more... I wonder if I added enough fuel, and what do I need to do to prime the system. Added more fuel, and went back to the video to see about jumpering the fuel pump to prime the fuel line. Tried starting the car again and this time it fired up. It only ran for a second (just like Aaron Buley's car did in his video) so I took it that the air flow sensors weren't installed in the intake pipes. But Woo hoo!
On Sunday (10/31) I worked on the intake piping and intercooler lines. I also worked on the MAF sensor wiring. As the day turned to evening, it was fun working on the car while trick-or-treaters came by. Had some kids scared because the compressor would run as I was grinding away some of the exhaust flange so the muffler would mount.
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A couple things still to do with the engine...
- wire the intercooler pump
- finish intercooler plumbing and add coolant
- install clamps to hold the passenger side coolant line away from the belt and pulleys
- finalize a scheme to install the reminder of the intake piping and and air filter. Right now I'm tracking toward JBINTX's method.
I won't try to fire it up again until I have more of the rear suspension installed. The driver side half shaft is there but not fastened to anything, so it was flopping around when it did fire for a second. Hopefully the weather this weekend will cooperate for a productive couple days. I will also have to grind the powder coat paint off the inside of the tunnel cover... right now there is significant interference between the tunnel and the cover because of the paint buildup. Hoping to get this mobile by Thanksgiving so I can get it to one side of the garage and the wife can get her van back in its place (it will go better for me if she isn't having to park outside as it gets colder).
You could always order the MAF extension harness from ZZP. Cut and splice in.OK, a quick update before I head to church. I'll come back and add more later, but wanted to put some issues up here so folks can provide feedback/suggestions.
Friday night I wired the taillights. The only issue I had was that I used the below wire diagram I found CaptFrank2001 post. It worked well. The problem that I had was the two greens on the passenger side. I started with the passenger side and my interpretation of light green was reversed. Fortunately I tested it before Heat shrinking the splices, and was able to swap the greens. Lesson learned, wire the driver side first and then recognize the "green" on the driver's side will be the same for the back-up light on the passenger side as well.
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On Saturday I was able to install the subframe by myself using the method in the old videos (floor jack with the subframe balanced on a piece of wood) without any issues. Wasn't sure if this would be the case given what I had read/seen in other logs/videos.
As I was expecting based on other logs/vides, getting the solid transmission mounts on was a challenge. I'll come back later and document how I was able to do it, as it was tedious but not impossible.
Installing the rear suspension wasn't too difficult, though there have been a handful of challenges:
- I've struggled to find torque values. I've got several threads bookmarked that I dig through, but I often wonder if I'm calling parts by a different name. I've torqued them to something reasonable (in my head, anyway). Perhaps one day (with release of the new videos?) I'll get to come back and re-torque them.
- When the rear coilovers are adjusted as shown in the helpful images, the springs are loose on the back. I'm assuming that once the top of the shock absorber gets connected to the rear strut mount, the top nuts (documented at 4" in the images) are screwed up until the spring is no longer loose and that 4" measurement is larger.
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- I've installed the rear calipers on the wrong sides. That will be a project for this afternoon.
- I've struggled with how to torque the toe link to the steering knuckle, as I don't see a way to keep them from spinning while torqueing the nut.
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- I had to pull the intake plumbing off the car since where I had it wasn't fitting between the shock and the chassis. I don't really see a way around cutting the first 90 degree bend. Probably a project for next weekend.
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- When I installed the muffler I was only able to get 3 of the 4 nuts on. The angle of the muffler relative to the plate made it impossible to get the 4th nut on. I may come back later and try to start that nut first or see if I can screw that stud further into the flange on the exhaust manifold, so there is more clearance to get that nut on.
View attachment 28519
The most disturbing thing that I noticed came when I was removing the intake plumbing. As I went to disconnect the MAF sensor, I noticed some of the wires were cut. I don't know how this could have happened, but I'm not sure how I'll fix it as there is little left to work with and my soldering skills are nonexistent. A quick Google search indicates I can buy another one, but I wonder how it will take to get it delivered???
View attachment 28521
My helper, Adam, awoke Saturday morning with a stomach bug and didn't get to help. He also didn't get to play outside on a beautiful day, nor did he get to go to TWO birthday parties that he would have had a blast at. So before he went to bed, to try to cheer him (and me after finding the cut wires!), I put some of the wheels on the car just to see it come together. It was very exciting to see it with shoes on. I'm still hopeful that I can get everything operational by Thanksgiving. Feels slow going when the only substantial progress comes on Saturday with the occasional evening or Sunday afternoon workday. At least I know I can make it roll so I can free up a garage space for Lindsey's van before Christma
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I had to trim some of the tubes to make it all clear. This may help:OK, a quick update before I head to church. I'll come back and add more later, but wanted to put some issues up here so folks can provide feedback/suggestions.
Friday night I wired the taillights. The only issue I had was that I used the below wire diagram I found CaptFrank2001 post. It worked well. The problem that I had was the two greens on the passenger side. I started with the passenger side and my interpretation of light green was reversed. Fortunately I tested it before Heat shrinking the splices, and was able to swap the greens. Lesson learned, wire the driver side first and then recognize the "green" on the driver's side will be the same for the back-up light on the passenger side as well.
View attachment 28523
On Saturday I was able to install the subframe by myself using the method in the old videos (floor jack with the subframe balanced on a piece of wood) without any issues. Wasn't sure if this would be the case given what I had read/seen in other logs/videos.
As I was expecting based on other logs/vides, getting the solid transmission mounts on was a challenge. I'll come back later and document how I was able to do it, as it was tedious but not impossible.
Installing the rear suspension wasn't too difficult, though there have been a handful of challenges:
- I've struggled to find torque values. I've got several threads bookmarked that I dig through, but I often wonder if I'm calling parts by a different name. I've torqued them to something reasonable (in my head, anyway). Perhaps one day (with release of the new videos?) I'll get to come back and re-torque them.
- When the rear coilovers are adjusted as shown in the helpful images, the springs are loose on the back. I'm assuming that once the top of the shock absorber gets connected to the rear strut mount, the top nuts (documented at 4" in the images) are screwed up until the spring is no longer loose and that 4" measurement is larger.
View attachment 28517
- I've installed the rear calipers on the wrong sides. That will be a project for this afternoon.
- I've struggled with how to torque the toe link to the steering knuckle, as I don't see a way to keep them from spinning while torqueing the nut.
View attachment 28518
- I had to pull the intake plumbing off the car since where I had it wasn't fitting between the shock and the chassis. I don't really see a way around cutting the first 90 degree bend. Probably a project for next weekend.
View attachment 28522
- When I installed the muffler I was only able to get 3 of the 4 nuts on. The angle of the muffler relative to the plate made it impossible to get the 4th nut on. I may come back later and try to start that nut first or see if I can screw that stud further into the flange on the exhaust manifold, so there is more clearance to get that nut on.
View attachment 28519
The most disturbing thing that I noticed came when I was removing the intake plumbing. As I went to disconnect the MAF sensor, I noticed some of the wires were cut. I don't know how this could have happened, but I'm not sure how I'll fix it as there is little left to work with and my soldering skills are nonexistent. A quick Google search indicates I can buy another one, but I wonder how it will take to get it delivered???
View attachment 28521
My helper, Adam, awoke Saturday morning with a stomach bug and didn't get to help. He also didn't get to play outside on a beautiful day, nor did he get to go to TWO birthday parties that he would have had a blast at. So before he went to bed, to try to cheer him (and me after finding the cut wires!), I put some of the wheels on the car just to see it come together. It was very exciting to see it with shoes on. I'm still hopeful that I can get everything operational by Thanksgiving. Feels slow going when the only substantial progress comes on Saturday with the occasional evening or Sunday afternoon workday. At least I know I can make it roll so I can free up a garage space for Lindsey's van before Christmas!
View attachment 28516
You might be able to get a solder sleeve in there. Needs a heat gun and careful aim but they're a piece of cake. You can trim the excess heat shrink past the seal if you need to.The most disturbing thing that I noticed came when I was removing the intake plumbing. As I went to disconnect the MAF sensor, I noticed some of the wires were cut. I don't know how this could have happened, but I'm not sure how I'll fix it as there is little left to work with and my soldering skills are nonexistent. A quick Google search indicates I can buy another one, but I wonder how it will take to get it delivered???