SkyRay's Extended Track Goblin #314 - 09 SS/TC

SkyRay

Active Member
Clutch throw out bearing bolts for a F35? Those stock bolts were a pain to get out, but the normal allan head ones I replaced them with are working great.
Ross, those are the ones. I don't want to reuse the ones that came out either. I've been waiting for some that I ordered nearly a month ago. Apparently there are some in Canada but they are stuck somewhere. I looked for some at the local auto-parts stores but they only had normal bolt heads which won't fit into the recess in the throwout bearing. Did you use the Summit racing parts you have a link to? They seem shorter than what came out. I'll try running to a hardware store this morning to see if there are any socket head cap screws available there in approximately the right size. I wish I had seen your post earlier. Thanks.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Maybe you have a bolt supply store near you? The threads are a normal metric thread, it is just the allen head that makes them harder to find. I'm lucky to have a Fastenal, Bolt & Screw Supply Inc and Ace hardware near me. Ebay will have them too.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Grainger is another possible source and can be cheaper than a lot of places for buying more than 1 or 2, if you order online and ship to store.
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
There may be some trimming needed to get the pump all tightened down and fitting well. I had to trim the top metal ring to make clearance with the mounting angle. You definitely want that big O-ring squished to the 1/4" clearance per the video.

 

SkyRay

Active Member
Maybe you have a bolt supply store near you? The threads are a normal metric thread, it is just the allen head that makes them harder to find. I'm lucky to have a Fastenal, Bolt & Screw Supply Inc and Ace hardware near me. Ebay will have them too.
Grainger is another possible source and can be cheaper than a lot of places for buying more than 1 or 2, if you order online and ship to store.
I was able to get some M6 socket head cap screws this morning. Plan to restart putting it back together this afternoon. Thanks!
 

SkyRay

Active Member
There may be some trimming needed to get the pump all tightened down and fitting well. I had to trim the top metal ring to make clearance with the mounting angle. You definitely want that big O-ring squished to the 1/4" clearance per the video.
The gap between the tank and the retaining ring is a little more than 1/4”.

BBF11332-A3B4-4936-9A55-C353E38FAA81.jpeg

The plastic flange crushes against the nuts leaving the o-ring squeezed to 5/32”.

AF8819BB-E22C-45F7-BA3F-98571546383E.jpeg B203C7B2-14BD-4415-8A93-49264AE18F74.jpeg

I guess the next step would be to mill into the pump flange enough that it sits inside the nuts rather than on the nuts. Thoughts?
 

SkyRay

Active Member
More progress today... got the M6 x 20 socket head cap screws and reinstalled the throw out bearing. Then got the transmission connected back to the engine. In the process I got greasy fingerprints all over the clean transmission... not too easy trying to guide the transmission onto the engine alone. A huge help was JBINTX's recommendation for turning the intermediate shaft to move the transmission so the splines would align with the engine side. I then continued the process of re-assembling the engine. Still have more to do, but it feels good to be seeing the engine go back together. It also feels good to be throwing away boxes and baggies (which means the parts that came in them have been consumed).

IMG_3221.JPEG IMG_3222.JPEG IMG_3223.JPEG

Tomorrow's task - continue engine rebuild, to include install of shifter cable guide, intercooler pump, intercooler, and starter. Also hoses and engine wire harness. I'll also notch the fuel pump ring so it clears the nuts on the tank, and reinstall the fuel pump. I'll try to take pics in process.
 

SkyRay

Active Member
It has been a while since I posted, but I've made a fair bit of progress. On the 21st I went back and worked on the fuel pump. I had already adjusted the fuel pump per OptimizePrime’s method vice the method in the new Goblin build videos. As seen before it wouldn't tighten down to 1/4". It was because of the flange of the pump hitting the nuts on the studs on my tank (I don't think the nuts are there on the new tanks). So, I put the pump into the tank without the ring and marked where the nuts were. I then trimmed the areas I marked so it would clear the nuts. This took a couple times of trial and error to get it just right. Once I did this, I was able to get the pump to clear the nuts. Note that I was careful not to take too much material away from the flange as I didn't want the O-ring to end up failing to seal because the flange wasn't there to push against. Anyway, it seems to seat against the flange and it now tightened to 1/4".

IMG_3226.JPEG IMG_3227.JPEG IMG_3228.JPEG IMG_3230.JPEG IMG_3231.JPEG

Didn't get much done the weekend of 22-24 October as I went with the 21 year old daughter and friends to see some other open wheel cars (Formula 1) zip around the Circuit of the Americas. Seeing DF Kit Car on a NASCAR was cool... but seeing Max Verstappen or Lando Norris take a Goblin around COTA would be fantastic!

IMG_3235.JPEG IMG_3330.JPEG IMG_3348.JPEG

I've made more progress since, but need to call it a night for now...
 
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SkyRay

Active Member
An updated report... After returning from the US Grand Prix I focused on getting the engine ready for install into the chassis. I was able to get the wire harness reconnected and didn't have many extra connectors left over. On Friday night the 19 year old was home from college so she, my wife, and I got the engine into the chassis. Woo hoo!

IMG_3390.JPEG IMG_3391.JPEG IMG_3393.JPEG

On Saturday we worked on the fuse box, vacuum lines, and coolant lines. Some observations:
- I was concerned that in the video it talked about soldering a wire to the engine harness. HOWEVER, DF made it much easier with a blade connector provided to crimp into the engine harness to make the connection. Piece of cake.
- I was a little confused with mounting the fuse box as I had hardware to mount it per the video (a small angle and a coated clamp) but there was a piece welded to the frame at that location. So I used the piece welded to the frame.

Once all those connectors were connected up, I installed the battery and we tested the electronics. we had lights, turn signals, and a horn. And the instrument cluster worked as well. Woo hoo!

I then connected the fuel pump and added coolant and fuel. I tried to start it, and it would turn over but not crank. Hmmm... kept working on other things and thought about it more... I wonder if I added enough fuel, and what do I need to do to prime the system. Added more fuel, and went back to the video to see about jumpering the fuel pump to prime the fuel line. Tried starting the car again and this time it fired up. It only ran for a second (just like Aaron Buley's car did in his video) so I took it that the air flow sensors weren't installed in the intake pipes. But Woo hoo!

On Sunday (10/31) I worked on the intake piping and intercooler lines. I also worked on the MAF sensor wiring. As the day turned to evening, it was fun working on the car while trick-or-treaters came by. Had some kids scared because the compressor would run as I was grinding away some of the exhaust flange so the muffler would mount.

IMG_3401.JPEG IMG_3403.JPEG IMG_3404.JPEG IMG_3406.JPEG IMG_3407.JPEG IMG_3408.JPEG IMG_3409.JPEG IMG_3411.JPEG IMG_3412.JPEG

A couple things still to do with the engine...
- wire the intercooler pump
- finish intercooler plumbing and add coolant
- install clamps to hold the passenger side coolant line away from the belt and pulleys
- finalize a scheme to install the reminder of the intake piping and and air filter. Right now I'm tracking toward JBINTX's method.

I won't try to fire it up again until I have more of the rear suspension installed. The driver side half shaft is there but not fastened to anything, so it was flopping around when it did fire for a second. Hopefully the weather this weekend will cooperate for a productive couple days. I will also have to grind the powder coat paint off the inside of the tunnel cover... right now there is significant interference between the tunnel and the cover because of the paint buildup. Hoping to get this mobile by Thanksgiving so I can get it to one side of the garage and the wife can get her van back in its place (it will go better for me if she isn't having to park outside as it gets colder).
 
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
An updated report... After returning from the US Grand Prix I focused on getting the engine ready for install into the chassis. I was able to get the wire harness reconnected and didn't have many extra connectors left over. On Friday night the 19 year old was home from college so she, my wife, and I got the engine into the chassis. Woo hoo!

View attachment 28436 View attachment 28437 View attachment 28438

On Saturday we worked on the fuse box, vacuum lines, and coolant lines. Some observations:
- I was concerned that in the video it talked about soldering a wire to the engine harness. HOWEVER, DF made it much easier with a blade connector provided to crimp into the engine harness to make the connection. Piece of cake.
- I was a little confused with mounting the fuse box as I had hardware to mount it per the video (a small angle and a coated clamp) but there was a piece welded to the frame at that location. So I used the piece welded to the frame.

Once all those connectors were connected up, I installed the battery and we tested the electronics. we had lights, turn signals, and a horn. And the instrument cluster worked as well. Woo hoo!

I then connected the fuel pump and added coolant and fuel. I tried to start it, and it would turn over but not crank. Hmmm... kept working on other things and thought about it more... I wonder if I added enough fuel, and what do I need to do to prime the system. Added more fuel, and went back to the video to see about jumpering the fuel pump to prime the fuel line. Tried starting the car again and this time it fired up. It only ran for a second (just like Aaron Buley's car did in his video) so I took it that the air flow sensors weren't installed in the intake pipes. But Woo hoo!

On Sunday (10/31) I worked on the intake piping and intercooler lines. I also worked on the MAF sensor wiring. As the day turned to evening, it was fun working on the car while trick-or-treaters came by. Had some kids scared because the compressor would run as I was grinding away some of the exhaust flange so the muffler would mount.

View attachment 28447 View attachment 28448 View attachment 28449 View attachment 28450 View attachment 28451 View attachment 28452 View attachment 28453 View attachment 28454 View attachment 28455

A couple things still to do with the engine...
- wire the intercooler pump
- finish intercooler plumbing and add coolant
- install clamps to hold the passenger side coolant line away from the belt and pulleys
- finalize a scheme to install the reminder of the intake piping and and air filter. Right now I'm tracking toward JBINTX's method.

I won't try to fire it up again until I have more of the rear suspension installed. The driver side half shaft is there but not fastened to anything, so it was flopping around when it did fire for a second. Hopefully the weather this weekend will cooperate for a productive couple days. I will also have to grind the powder coat paint off the inside of the tunnel cover... right now there is significant interference between the tunnel and the cover because of the paint buildup. Hoping to get this mobile by Thanksgiving so I can get it to one side of the garage and the wife can get her van back in its place (it will go better for me if she isn't having to park outside as it gets colder).
Pinch the tunnel sides inward slightly, then you won't have to grind off any of your new powder coating. ;)
 

SkyRay

Active Member
OK, a quick update before I head to church. I'll come back and add more later, but wanted to put some issues up here so folks can provide feedback/suggestions.

Friday night I wired the taillights. The only issue I had was that I used the below wire diagram I found CaptFrank2001 post. It worked well. The problem that I had was the two greens on the passenger side. I started with the passenger side and my interpretation of light green was reversed. Fortunately I tested it before Heat shrinking the splices, and was able to swap the greens. Lesson learned, wire the driver side first and then recognize the "green" on the driver's side will be the same for the back-up light on the passenger side as well.

Color Codes.jpg

On Saturday I was able to install the subframe by myself using the method in the old videos (floor jack with the subframe balanced on a piece of wood) without any issues. Wasn't sure if this would be the case given what I had read/seen in other logs/videos.

As I was expecting based on other logs/vides, getting the solid transmission mounts on was a challenge. I'll come back later and document how I was able to do it, as it was tedious but not impossible.

Installing the rear suspension wasn't too difficult, though there have been a handful of challenges:
- I've struggled to find torque values. I've got several threads bookmarked that I dig through, but I often wonder if I'm calling parts by a different name. I've torqued them to something reasonable (in my head, anyway). Perhaps one day (with release of the new videos?) I'll get to come back and re-torque them.
- When the rear coilovers are adjusted as shown in the helpful images, the springs are loose on the back. I'm assuming that once the top of the shock absorber gets connected to the rear strut mount, the top nuts (documented at 4" in the images) are screwed up until the spring is no longer loose and that 4" measurement is larger.
IMG_3421.JPEG
- I've installed the rear calipers on the wrong sides. That will be a project for this afternoon.
- I've struggled with how to torque the toe link to the steering knuckle, as I don't see a way to keep them from spinning while torqueing the nut.
IMG_3422.JPEG
- I had to pull the intake plumbing off the car since where I had it wasn't fitting between the shock and the chassis. I don't really see a way around cutting the first 90 degree bend. Probably a project for next weekend.
IMG_3427.JPEG
- When I installed the muffler I was only able to get 3 of the 4 nuts on. The angle of the muffler relative to the plate made it impossible to get the 4th nut on. I may come back later and try to start that nut first or see if I can screw that stud further into the flange on the exhaust manifold, so there is more clearance to get that nut on.
IMG_3423.JPEG

The most disturbing thing that I noticed came when I was removing the intake plumbing. As I went to disconnect the MAF sensor, I noticed some of the wires were cut. I don't know how this could have happened, but I'm not sure how I'll fix it as there is little left to work with and my soldering skills are nonexistent. A quick Google search indicates I can buy another one, but I wonder how it will take to get it delivered???
IMG_3426.JPEG

My helper, Adam, awoke Saturday morning with a stomach bug and didn't get to help. He also didn't get to play outside on a beautiful day, nor did he get to go to TWO birthday parties that he would have had a blast at. So before he went to bed, to try to cheer him (and me after finding the cut wires!), I put some of the wheels on the car just to see it come together. It was very exciting to see it with shoes on. I'm still hopeful that I can get everything operational by Thanksgiving. Feels slow going when the only substantial progress comes on Saturday with the occasional evening or Sunday afternoon workday. At least I know I can make it roll so I can free up a garage space for Lindsey's van before Christmas!
IMG_3420.JPEG
 
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r3drckt

Goblin Guru
You can try to remove the wires from the MAF connector and then put new pins on them and slide them back in. It's doable, but a huge pain in the ass. Usually a tiny precision flat head is needed to push a tab down on each wire in order to push the wire out. Sourcing the pins may be the most difficult part as you'll probably have to order them online (most auto parts stores don't carry these pins from my experience).

The other option would be to find someone with a spare harness who can cut a few inches above the MAF sensor plug so you have space to solder with. Maybe @Ross has one? I know he was reworking a second harness since his first had some gremlins. Not sure if he ever got to that project yet or not. I believe the plugs are the same regardless of donor but I could be wrong. If the plugs are the same, ignore the wire colors, just solder your wires back in the correct location on the plug.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
With the strut fully extended, the spring needs to be at least snug against the upper mount and lower spring adjuster. Ride height is adjust at the base.

Usually an impact is used to tighten the tie rod nuts that have locking nuts because its really hard to get the stud to stop spinning. Even when you do, since the locking part of the nut adds resistance and torque values will be all out of whack. If you don’t have an impact, take a prybar and wedge it under the knuckle and on top of the tie rod end. When you push down, this will stop the stud snd you can tighten the nut. This may take a good bit of pressure to do.

Should be able to find a maf connector just about anywhere or re-pin it, but that’s a little harder and takes a different crimping tool.

not sure on the next 2

Most important:
**Don‘t rush the build to be ready by a certain day**
Being completely assembled, is not finished. There is a ton of fine tuning and seat time that needs to happen, to truly “finish” it. I call it phase 3 of the build- drivability and reliability
 
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jayrolls

Well-Known Member
OK, a quick update before I head to church. I'll come back and add more later, but wanted to put some issues up here so folks can provide feedback/suggestions.

Friday night I wired the taillights. The only issue I had was that I used the below wire diagram I found CaptFrank2001 post. It worked well. The problem that I had was the two greens on the passenger side. I started with the passenger side and my interpretation of light green was reversed. Fortunately I tested it before Heat shrinking the splices, and was able to swap the greens. Lesson learned, wire the driver side first and then recognize the "green" on the driver's side will be the same for the back-up light on the passenger side as well.

View attachment 28523

On Saturday I was able to install the subframe by myself using the method in the old videos (floor jack with the subframe balanced on a piece of wood) without any issues. Wasn't sure if this would be the case given what I had read/seen in other logs/videos.

As I was expecting based on other logs/vides, getting the solid transmission mounts on was a challenge. I'll come back later and document how I was able to do it, as it was tedious but not impossible.

Installing the rear suspension wasn't too difficult, though there have been a handful of challenges:
- I've struggled to find torque values. I've got several threads bookmarked that I dig through, but I often wonder if I'm calling parts by a different name. I've torqued them to something reasonable (in my head, anyway). Perhaps one day (with release of the new videos?) I'll get to come back and re-torque them.
- When the rear coilovers are adjusted as shown in the helpful images, the springs are loose on the back. I'm assuming that once the top of the shock absorber gets connected to the rear strut mount, the top nuts (documented at 4" in the images) are screwed up until the spring is no longer loose and that 4" measurement is larger.
View attachment 28517
- I've installed the rear calipers on the wrong sides. That will be a project for this afternoon.
- I've struggled with how to torque the toe link to the steering knuckle, as I don't see a way to keep them from spinning while torqueing the nut.
View attachment 28518
- I had to pull the intake plumbing off the car since where I had it wasn't fitting between the shock and the chassis. I don't really see a way around cutting the first 90 degree bend. Probably a project for next weekend.
View attachment 28522
- When I installed the muffler I was only able to get 3 of the 4 nuts on. The angle of the muffler relative to the plate made it impossible to get the 4th nut on. I may come back later and try to start that nut first or see if I can screw that stud further into the flange on the exhaust manifold, so there is more clearance to get that nut on.
View attachment 28519

The most disturbing thing that I noticed came when I was removing the intake plumbing. As I went to disconnect the MAF sensor, I noticed some of the wires were cut. I don't know how this could have happened, but I'm not sure how I'll fix it as there is little left to work with and my soldering skills are nonexistent. A quick Google search indicates I can buy another one, but I wonder how it will take to get it delivered???
View attachment 28521

My helper, Adam, awoke Saturday morning with a stomach bug and didn't get to help. He also didn't get to play outside on a beautiful day, nor did he get to go to TWO birthday parties that he would have had a blast at. So before he went to bed, to try to cheer him (and me after finding the cut wires!), I put some of the wheels on the car just to see it come together. It was very exciting to see it with shoes on. I'm still hopeful that I can get everything operational by Thanksgiving. Feels slow going when the only substantial progress comes on Saturday with the occasional evening or Sunday afternoon workday. At least I know I can make it roll so I can free up a garage space for Lindsey's van before Christma
View attachment 28516
You could always order the MAF extension harness from ZZP. Cut and splice in.
 

Attachments

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
OK, a quick update before I head to church. I'll come back and add more later, but wanted to put some issues up here so folks can provide feedback/suggestions.

Friday night I wired the taillights. The only issue I had was that I used the below wire diagram I found CaptFrank2001 post. It worked well. The problem that I had was the two greens on the passenger side. I started with the passenger side and my interpretation of light green was reversed. Fortunately I tested it before Heat shrinking the splices, and was able to swap the greens. Lesson learned, wire the driver side first and then recognize the "green" on the driver's side will be the same for the back-up light on the passenger side as well.

View attachment 28523

On Saturday I was able to install the subframe by myself using the method in the old videos (floor jack with the subframe balanced on a piece of wood) without any issues. Wasn't sure if this would be the case given what I had read/seen in other logs/videos.

As I was expecting based on other logs/vides, getting the solid transmission mounts on was a challenge. I'll come back later and document how I was able to do it, as it was tedious but not impossible.

Installing the rear suspension wasn't too difficult, though there have been a handful of challenges:
- I've struggled to find torque values. I've got several threads bookmarked that I dig through, but I often wonder if I'm calling parts by a different name. I've torqued them to something reasonable (in my head, anyway). Perhaps one day (with release of the new videos?) I'll get to come back and re-torque them.
- When the rear coilovers are adjusted as shown in the helpful images, the springs are loose on the back. I'm assuming that once the top of the shock absorber gets connected to the rear strut mount, the top nuts (documented at 4" in the images) are screwed up until the spring is no longer loose and that 4" measurement is larger.
View attachment 28517
- I've installed the rear calipers on the wrong sides. That will be a project for this afternoon.
- I've struggled with how to torque the toe link to the steering knuckle, as I don't see a way to keep them from spinning while torqueing the nut.
View attachment 28518
- I had to pull the intake plumbing off the car since where I had it wasn't fitting between the shock and the chassis. I don't really see a way around cutting the first 90 degree bend. Probably a project for next weekend.
View attachment 28522
- When I installed the muffler I was only able to get 3 of the 4 nuts on. The angle of the muffler relative to the plate made it impossible to get the 4th nut on. I may come back later and try to start that nut first or see if I can screw that stud further into the flange on the exhaust manifold, so there is more clearance to get that nut on.
View attachment 28519

The most disturbing thing that I noticed came when I was removing the intake plumbing. As I went to disconnect the MAF sensor, I noticed some of the wires were cut. I don't know how this could have happened, but I'm not sure how I'll fix it as there is little left to work with and my soldering skills are nonexistent. A quick Google search indicates I can buy another one, but I wonder how it will take to get it delivered???
View attachment 28521

My helper, Adam, awoke Saturday morning with a stomach bug and didn't get to help. He also didn't get to play outside on a beautiful day, nor did he get to go to TWO birthday parties that he would have had a blast at. So before he went to bed, to try to cheer him (and me after finding the cut wires!), I put some of the wheels on the car just to see it come together. It was very exciting to see it with shoes on. I'm still hopeful that I can get everything operational by Thanksgiving. Feels slow going when the only substantial progress comes on Saturday with the occasional evening or Sunday afternoon workday. At least I know I can make it roll so I can free up a garage space for Lindsey's van before Christmas!
View attachment 28516
I had to trim some of the tubes to make it all clear. This may help:


I also did not leave the intake in the stock location either.

 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
The most disturbing thing that I noticed came when I was removing the intake plumbing. As I went to disconnect the MAF sensor, I noticed some of the wires were cut. I don't know how this could have happened, but I'm not sure how I'll fix it as there is little left to work with and my soldering skills are nonexistent. A quick Google search indicates I can buy another one, but I wonder how it will take to get it delivered???
You might be able to get a solder sleeve in there. Needs a heat gun and careful aim but they're a piece of cake. You can trim the excess heat shrink past the seal if you need to.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
There are several unused connectors that contain the same metal terminal 12191819 as the maf connector. You can unplug the terminal and swap it out with a longer wire.
 

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