SkyRay's Extended Track Goblin #314 - 09 SS/TC

SkyRay

Active Member
I visited the DMV today to transfer a title to a different car. While there, I asked about getting the "certified weight". They gave me a piece of paper that had a number of addresses for various things, including getting vehicle weight. The list included the two truck stops I had already visited plus a scrap metal yard nearby that I hadn't called yet. She also said she heard there was a grain store not too far away that could do it. She said that as long as the weight was officially printed it should be ok. She said if it is a handwritten slip it would likely be rejected.

As far as the emissions test, I didn't expressly ask for it or say not to do it... I gave them the Goblin, said I needed the inspection for registration as well as the ASE Master Mechanic inspection, and they gave it back to me with a safety only inspection. I may call and ask why they didn't do the emissions test.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
So they told you the same thing we told you. :eek:

It gets tricky. You only need an emission test on vehicles 2-24 years old. This is why they gave you safety only. BUT, if they read in assembled vehicle section all vehicles need an emission test if in an emission county. They have to know this info though.
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SkyRay

Active Member
Before Christmas I was able to get a weight for the Goblin. I also went back and asked about the inspection but got confirmation that, since there are error codes, it won't pass emissions. I need to read more about tunes so I can fix them, or find a shop in the north Dallas area that can tune it in for me.

Since then, Christmas happened, then New Year's, and now COVID. Sadly, since I work from home now, I just get to work from home sick. Hopefully I can find some time to make some phone calls this week.

I did get a message from State Farm that they are changing the vehicle category for my Goblin, which will drive up the insurance rate significantly. Has anyone else heard of this happening? I haven't gotten the paperwork yet to understand how much the change is...

I noticed there is an SCCA event near my home in McKinney, TX, on 1/15. Since I'm not yet legal to be on the road, I doubt I can participate. But if any Goblins are coming to the event, I'd love to meet up. I'd really like for someone to look over the car and make recommendations. Please let me know if you'll be in the area!
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
For $100 you can buy 2 HP Tuner Chevy credits, and then licence your VIN, I could modify your PCM's software. Of course a 5 hour drive to Rogers Arkansas might not be close, but you and a +1 could always make a weekend out of it. Or maybe you can find someone closer with a HPTuner MVPI2.
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Before Christmas I was able to get a weight for the Goblin (2160 lbs) using JoeBob's method which included about 550 lbs of ballast. 1600lbs seems about right from what I've read on other's logs. I'm not sure how JBINTX was able to get a CAT scale to provide not just a weight under 2000lbs, but spread across the steer and drive axles. Pretty impressive.

I also went back and asked about the inspection but got confirmation that, since there are error codes, it won't pass emissions. From what I've read elsewhere, I think I can get a tune that disables error codes. I don't see myself making a lot of minor adjustments to tweak things around, thereby justifying the cost of getting HP Tuners. But I saw in someone's log that the standard ZZP load didn't work on their Goblin, so I'm not convinced I can get something worthwhile from ZZP. I'm also unsure if ZZP would disable the error codes. Anyway, I need to read more about tunes, or find a shop in the north Dallas area that can tune it in for me.

Since then, Christmas happened, then New Year's, and now COVID. Sadly, since I work from home now, I just get to work from home sick. Hopefully I can find some time to make some phone calls this week.

I did get a message from State Farm that they are changing the vehicle category for my Goblin, which will drive up the insurance rate significantly. Has anyone else heard of this happening? I haven't gotten the paperwork yet to understand how much the change is...

I noticed there is an SCCA event near my home in McKinney, TX, on 1/15. Since I'm not yet legal to be on the road, I doubt I can participate. But if any Goblins are coming to the event, I'd love to meet up. I'd really like for someone to look over the car and make recommendations. Please let me know if you'll be in the area!
You do not need to be road legal to compete in autoX. You would have to trailer it there though.
 

SkyRay

Active Member
For $100 you can buy 2 HP Tuner Chevy credits, and then licence your VIN, I could modify your PCM's software. Of course a 5 hour drive to Rogers Arkansas might not be close, but you and a +1 could always make a weekend out of it. Or maybe you can find someone closer with a HPTuner MVPI2.
Ross, thanks for the offer. One of the reasons I'm getting the Goblin is to get back to Arkansas and ride the twisty roads and mountains. I used to do it on my motorcycle, but have decided 4 wheels are better. I'll let you know if I can get it up your direction.

You do not need to be road legal to compete in autoX. You would have to trailer it there though.
The event this weekend is a road rally covering 45-60 miles around the area... Prolly not good for an unregistered Goblin. I guess I could do it in my SUV to learn the road rally concepts. I'll have to see what shakes out on my schedule this weekend!
 

SkyRay

Active Member
It has been quite a while since I have posted, and I haven't done too much with the Goblin. I finally got rid of the coolant leak through the NPT threads going into the heat exchanger. I had tried more and more teflon tape, which was successful for one side, but couldn't get it to seal the other side. This time I used some pipe thread sealant I picked up at Lowes (or Home Depot)...
IMG_3776.JPEG IMG_3777.JPEG

I have gotten some quotes for painting and then wrapping the hood, but haven't moved out yet. I did start the front end alignment process by adjusting the ride height, caster, and camber, but decided to wait on adjusting toe until I received the improved steering arms. Of course, that means I've chewed up my front tires driving around town over the past two months. Also, while on one of my drives around town, the extendable steering shaft disconnected from the power steering motor. Fortunately I was going relatively straight and slowing as I was approaching a traffic light, so I got the car to a stop and then was able to push it off the road and reconnect it to get it home. So here we are at the beginning of March, and I've got quite a few things to try to get done so I can enjoy the car legally in the spring. Some areas I'd like some feedback on...

Extendable Steering Shaft connection to Power Steering Motor:
The one out of the donor was very difficult to adjust in and out, so I bought a replacement. This has a pan head screw that takes a 4mm hex Allen key to tighten. When I tighten it all the way down, it still will slide on the motor shaft. When I put a pry bar on it I can get it so it won't slide, but it still will pivot slightly. This isn't good. I was thinking of getting a bolt to replace the pan head screw so I can get more torque on it, but wanted to see if anyone else had experienced anything like this or had thoughts/suggestions.
IMG_3788Capture.JPG IMG_3791Capture.JPG IMG_3790Capture.JPG

Brake Light Switch:
One thing I've noticed when I drive at night is my brake lights seem to come on while I'm driving. Say I'm at a traffic light, I can tell they are on. When I take my foot off the brake, they go off. As I accelerate, at some point, they come back on without me touching the brake. If I ever so slightly touch the brake pedal (not enough to actually engage the brake light if they had been off) they will go off. After taking my foot off the brake, in a little bit, they will come on again. I suspect I need to replace the brake light switch (I trust this is it circled in green) because it doesn't look like there is a relay that could be the cause of the problem, but since there could be other electronics involved (to control flashers, etc) I wanted to get the opinion of others first.

IMG_3774Capture.JPG

Toe End Disengagement from Steering Arms:
As I tried to replace the steering arms and adjust my front end alignment, I was unsuccessful at getting the toe end to separate from the steering arm. I've since watched a couple YouTube videos that talked about using a pry bar to push the toe end away from the steering arm while banging on the side of the steering arm to deform the tapered hole to release the toe end. I'll give this a try next, but any other experiences that would help me successfully accomplish this?

IMG_3775Capture.JPG

Finishing the Hood:
I have no auto body work experience. I've done some research online looking at preparing a fiberglass body for paint, and am not sure how successful I'd be with the fill and finish. The wrap guy suggested that the wrap should stick directly to the fiberglass. Does anyone have any experience with wrapping directly onto the fiberglass?

I appreciate everyone's help. I hope things slow down at work, and I get some time on the weekends, so I can get back to making the Goblin travel ready.
 
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Joebob

Goblin Guru
See comments in Red.


Extendable Steering Shaft connection to Power Steering Motor:
The one out of the donor was very difficult to adjust in and out, so I bought a replacement. This has a pan head screw that takes a 4mm hex Allen key to tighten. When I tighten it all the way down, it still will slide on the motor shaft. When I put a pry bar on it I can get it so it won't slide, but it still will pivot slightly. This isn't good. I was thinking of getting a bolt to replace the pan head screw so I can get more torque on it, but wanted to see if anyone else had experienced anything like this or had thoughts/suggestions.
View attachment 31140 View attachment 31142 View attachment 31141

I would look at a longer bold that you can ensure you have full thread engagement prior to putting more torque on it. I did not have an issue getting a good bite on the shaft. Are you sure you have the right part and on the right ends?

Brake Light Switch:
One thing I've noticed when I drive at night is my brake lights seem to come on while I'm driving. Say I'm at a traffic light, I can tell they are on. When I take my foot off the brake, they go off. As I accelerate, at some point, they come back on without me touching the brake.

View attachment 31143

I had this issue as well. What I did was slightly back off the attaching screw that holds the sensor on. it gives it a bit of wiggle room and relaxes the sensor spring. This turns off the constant light but still works when you press the pedal.

Toe End Disengagement from Steering Arms:
As I tried to replace the steering arms and adjust my front end alignment, I was unsuccessful at getting the toe end to separate from the steering arm. I've since watched a couple YouTube videos that talked about using a pry bar to push the toe end away from the steering arm while banging on the side of the steering arm to deform the tapered hole to release the toe end.

The tool recommended is what I would use as well but it the main reason I have not added my steering limiter shims yet. You can get a basic toe reading by mimicking the toe plates by getting a tape measure and compare the lengths between the front and back of the tires by holding against a tread block edge on one side and stretching the tape measure under the car and across to the other tire tread block edge. You are not concerned with the actuals but the relative difference in them. Aim for about 3/16" smaller in the front than the back of the tire.

Joe
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Isn't there a groove on the male shaft of the steering for the through bolt to engage and keep it from falling off? Maybe I'm misremembering?

So I found pictures of the shaft and it does have a groove. If the female portion is so loose that the bolt doesn't engage the groove, I think you need a different shaft.
 
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Joebob

Goblin Guru
Isn't there a groove on the male shaft of the steering for the through bolt to engage and keep it from falling off? Maybe I'm misremembering?
Yes it appears so. By design, the bolt should only be able to get inserted if aligned with the groove. Much like the rear control arm ball joints.

Joe

31148
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Toe End Disengagement from Steering Arms:
As I tried to replace the steering arms and adjust my front end alignment, I was unsuccessful at getting the toe end to separate from the steering arm. I've since watched a couple YouTube videos that talked about using a pry bar to push the toe end away from the steering arm while banging on the side of the steering arm to deform the tapered hole to release the toe end. I'll give this a try next, but any other experiences that would help me successfully accomplish this?
Mine had not been installed quite a year when I removed mine for the first time to install the steering rack limiters. I used a bit of Kroil and let it sit a little while, then a few mild blows with a plastic dead blow (nut partially threaded on) I was able to knock it free pretty easily. I wouldn't want to beat or pry on those aluminum arms too much...
 

SkyRay

Active Member
Yes it appears so. By design, the bolt should only be able to get inserted if aligned with the groove. Much like the rear control arm ball joints.

Joe

View attachment 31148
It absolutely does have the groove, which was all the more reason I was shocked when it fell off. I wasn't able to install the screw unless the holes aligned with the groove, but I could get it to slide off. I guess it is a tolerance stack-up condition where the thread of the screw hits the spline just right so it doesn't catch when sliding along the shaft, but it can't be installed across the spline.

Thinking about it more, maybe I'll drill out the threaded hole and use a larger bolt and self locking nut which will allow me to get more torque on the bolt and make sure the bolt will interfere with the shaft so it can't fall off.

It is interesting in your screenshot that it calls for a 5mm allen. The 5mm was too large for mine... the 4mm had to be used. So it looks like my replacement had a smaller screw.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Interesting is that a 4mm allen hex size is for a 6mm bolt and a 5mm allen hex size is for an 8mm diameter bolt. That could be why it slides off, the 6mm diameter bolt can't fill the groove enough to allow the coupler to slide off. Is the current bolt a 6mm diameter and does it thread into the coupler cleanly? Do you have the old one to compare?

Joe
 

SkyRay

Active Member
Interesting is that a 4mm allen hex size is for a 6mm bolt and a 5mm allen hex size is for an 8mm diameter bolt. That could be why it slides off, the 6mm diameter bolt can't fill the groove enough to allow the coupler to slide off. Is the current bolt a 6mm diameter and does it thread into the coupler cleanly? Do you have the old one to compare?

Joe
Hopefully on Friday I can get some time to pull it apart and measure the screw and look for the old one. Thanks for the help!
 

SkyRay

Active Member
OK, got back outside to work on the far tonight.
1) The Harbor Freight ball joint separator worked great. Thanks!
2) I went back and looked at the steering coupler and realized I misspoke... it is the 5mm Allen that it takes, and the thread is 8mm. But I confirmed that, even with the screw in place, it can slide over the splined portion of the shaft. I'll try to pick up a 9mm bolt and nut this weekend.
3) I loosened the bolt holding the brake pedal switch. Hopefully the car is back together next week and I can try it out.

Thanks for all the help!
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
9mm bolts are pretty much nonexistent (maybe completely). If you are drilling for bolt and nut anyway, might as well try 3/8 before 10mm.
 

SkyRay

Active Member
A quick update:

1) Extendable Steering Shaft to Power Steering motor: I was able to drill out the hole with a 3/8" bit and bought a bolt, washers, and locking nut. This seemed to work quite well. I can put significantly more torque on the bolt than the hex head screw, and the bolt now catches in the recess on the power steering shaft such that, even if it loosens, the two won't disconnect.
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2) Brake Light Switch: Backing off the screw slightly did seem to fix the issue. Thanks, JoeBob!

Thanks to everyone for the help. More to come.
 

SkyRay

Active Member
Question for the group. I replaced the steering arms with the stronger ones provided by DF. When I torqued the toe end into the arm, the one on the passenger side looked like it was sucked up into the arm too far (was squeezing grease out of the dust cover, in fact). Has anyone else seen this?

Driver side -> As expected
IMG_3882.JPEG

Passenger side -> a lot of thread exposed, grease squeezed out of toe end.
IMG_3883.JPEG

Thanks!
 
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