Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
See post #365 above from Gtstorey for the link.
I put the part numbers for the fusebox and bracket a few posts below that also.
Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor
- Thread starter Sluggonaut
- Start date
I put the part numbers for the fusebox and bracket a few posts below that also.
2006 SS/SC shows a different part number and a $317 price
2005-2006 Chevrolet Cobalt Engine Wiring Harness Junction Block 15269047 | Auto Parts Express
OEM 2005-2006 Chevrolet Cobalt Part # 15269047 - Engine Wiring Harness Junction Block
www.gmpartsonline.net
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
I have about 36" of vacuum hose left over. Does anyone know how much is needed for the reservoir relocation and clutch line extension?
What kind of tubing is it if I need to order more?
Also, I can't seem to find any pics detailing the early model brake setup - only the late model. I think I understand how it is supposed to go together but if anyone knows where I can find pics or has their own pics it would be greatly appreciated.
TIA!
What kind of tubing is it if I need to order more?
Also, I can't seem to find any pics detailing the early model brake setup - only the late model. I think I understand how it is supposed to go together but if anyone knows where I can find pics or has their own pics it would be greatly appreciated.
TIA!
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
I've completed everything in that video. My question pertains to everything I have left not covered in that video, like the clothes hanger-shaped steel thing that goes on the master cylinder block to hold it in place somehow.
All of the pictures in the helpful photo album are for the late model and don't look like the parts I have for the early model.
All of the pictures in the helpful photo album are for the late model and don't look like the parts I have for the early model.
Ross
Goblin Guru
That coat hanger holds the caps on the master brake, part of the brake reservoir relocation kit.
There is extra stuff in this picture that isn't stock DF.
A brake reservoir picture is here.
There is extra stuff in this picture that isn't stock DF.
A brake reservoir picture is here.
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
Thanks! Exactly what I've been searching for unsuccessfully.
are there any aftermarket wiring harnesses out there that will meet the Goblin requirements to make things much simpler and a more cosmetic appearing?
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
It's been a lot of 1-step-forward-and-2-steps-back the past week or so. Tonight was no exception, as I worked through my list of things I wanted to get done while I push past my 3rd week of waiting for correctly sized bearings from QA1.
I wanted to test fit my tunnel cover so I can drill and tap the holes once I am ready to close it up. I discovered my wiring harness at the BCM was a complete mess and nowhere close to fitting as designed. Tesa tape is easy to work with and not the sticky mess electrical tape is, but it is not easy to remove. I put a new blade in the knife and went to work. I was able to get the layers of Tesa tape off and reshape the harness at the bulkhead junction:
After I finished my harness back in December, I read how everyone was waiting to fully wrap the harness after they installed it in the frame. If I were to do it again, I would go that route. However, it was a lot easier to wrap on the plywood table in my living room several months ago than it was with the harness installed in the frame. I got it squared away, but at the expense of the other things I was hoping to accomplish tonight:
After I got everything in place, I finished wrapping the wires and called it a night.
I wanted to test fit my tunnel cover so I can drill and tap the holes once I am ready to close it up. I discovered my wiring harness at the BCM was a complete mess and nowhere close to fitting as designed. Tesa tape is easy to work with and not the sticky mess electrical tape is, but it is not easy to remove. I put a new blade in the knife and went to work. I was able to get the layers of Tesa tape off and reshape the harness at the bulkhead junction:
After I finished my harness back in December, I read how everyone was waiting to fully wrap the harness after they installed it in the frame. If I were to do it again, I would go that route. However, it was a lot easier to wrap on the plywood table in my living room several months ago than it was with the harness installed in the frame. I got it squared away, but at the expense of the other things I was hoping to accomplish tonight:
After I got everything in place, I finished wrapping the wires and called it a night.
Dale E
Well-Known Member
Maybe consider concentric wiring method? I know it takes a long time for wiring and this will make it longer.
Dale
Dale
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
@Sluggonaut
The front of your tunnel cover looks significantly different than mine (#187). Did you make modifications or did your tunnel come like that? (Just wondering)
The front of your tunnel cover looks significantly different than mine (#187). Did you make modifications or did your tunnel come like that? (Just wondering)
I guess you are asking about the short leg of the L that sticks up vertically?
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
That's one of the 3-piece tunnel cap that comes with the DF shifter.
I am not sure what the regular tunnel cap looks like. I ordered the DF shifter and it was shipped with my kit - I didn't receive the regular tunnel cap.
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
I definitely don't need longer, my problem was too much of the harness on the BCM side of the trunk. It was a fairly easy fix once I was able to get everything unwrapped.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Correct
Understood. I'd probably insulate the metal where the wires are, unless the edge of the metal is duller than it looks. That'd be a wear point, down the road.
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
It will be 4 weeks on Monday since QA1 support told me they were sending 2 sets of replacement bearings. I finally received a package from QA1 today, but after opening it up I found only 1 set of bearings. 
I measured them and although they are smaller than the ones that shipped with my shocks originally, they are still a few thousandths larger than the shock eye they fit into. As expected, they didn't slide right in or go in with some friendly taps with the mallet. They're chilling in the freezer now and I'll heat up the shock tomorrow to see if I can get them installed.
The customer service rep said he checked with engineering and both my shock and bearing measurements are within spec. The specs are obviously crap if they are both in spec but won't install. I get that issues happen in manufacturing but I wasn't expecting it to take over a month to resolve the issue.
Originally, QA1 asked why DF would put different bearings in the box. After assuring him it was factory packaging he did say they have had a few instances like this previously.
At this point, I'm ready to just buy something else to use on the front end.
I measured them and although they are smaller than the ones that shipped with my shocks originally, they are still a few thousandths larger than the shock eye they fit into. As expected, they didn't slide right in or go in with some friendly taps with the mallet. They're chilling in the freezer now and I'll heat up the shock tomorrow to see if I can get them installed.
The customer service rep said he checked with engineering and both my shock and bearing measurements are within spec. The specs are obviously crap if they are both in spec but won't install. I get that issues happen in manufacturing but I wasn't expecting it to take over a month to resolve the issue.
Originally, QA1 asked why DF would put different bearings in the box. After assuring him it was factory packaging he did say they have had a few instances like this previously.
At this point, I'm ready to just buy something else to use on the front end.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
This is the reason DF is THE greatest company in the world!!!
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
I was going to pick up a brake hone and work the shock eye per QA1's recommendation.
According to QA1, the measurements I provided are within tolerance. Even though both parts are within tolerance, they are at opposite ends of their respective ranges so they simply don't fit together.
Before I sent pics/measurements, they suggested you guys put the wrong bearings in the box. After I provided pics/measurements, they acknowledged this wasn't the first time they've seen this with the DS410's. Pretty classless in my opinion.
Even though our tools may not be exactly the same (and mine are low quality) here are my dimensions if you wouldn't mind comparing them to ones you have on hand:
This is the smallest of my original bearings:
I only received 1 set of replacement bearings and they measure 1.0001 and 1.0035.
The small one might fit after freezing/heating the parts as it is barely over 1-thousandth bigger. I'm no expert but I don't think even a dunk in liquid nitrogen will free up over 3-thousandths on a 1" part.
Last edited: