Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

[Lonny]

ID to OD measurement comparisons are tough to with calipers when dealing with thousandths of and inch.

In my machine shop I have calibrated dial bore gauges and micrometers. If I need discuss measurements with QA1 I can give them measurements down to tenths of a thousandths.

 

[Sluggonaut]

ID to OD measurement comparisons are tough to with calipers when dealing with thousandths of and inch.

In my machine shop I have calibrated dial bore gauges and micrometers. If I need discuss measurements with QA1 I can give them measurements down to tenths of a thousandths.

Unfortunately, I am just a home builder with basic tools. I don't think it is too much to expect brand new parts from the same manufacturer to fit together out of the box. We're not talking about tolerance stack between parts from different manufacturers - these are parts built, boxed, and sold by the same company. Issues happen in manufacturing and as long as manufacturers make an effort to correct quality issues it's no big deal.

However, to suggest the issue was caused by someone else as the first step in addressing the problem even though it is a known issue is not acceptable. Taking over 3 weeks to do something you said you would do and needing multiple follow-ups to do so is also inexcusable. After this experience, I won't be using anything QA1 again if I can help it.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Dial bore gauge to the rescue. My neighbor's dial bore gauge confirmed the ID of the shock eye was smaller on the edges (around the ring groove) than the middle of the shock eye. It also confirmed my crappy HF calipers actually aren't too far off (within a 10-thousandth) of the tools he uses at work.

I used the brake hone gauge I picked up at Auto Zone to remove some material and fix some of the scoring my previous installation attempts caused on the inside edge of the groove.

The black ends show that the only material removed was on the outside edges the best. Just a little bit of material removed right inside the groove in some spots:

If I would've kept trying bearings until I found one to fit inside the outer edge of the shock eye, they would've been loose once installed.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I need some help identifying parts for the rear coilover install.

I have parts P22N (Rear Strut Mount) and JDAE (Strut Mount Spacer), but I can't seem to find any of the other parts listed in the helpful photos coilover picture:

I have the BC coilovers and was told what I needed would be in the kit, but I am not sure if the parts in current kits align with the older pictures.

I've checked all my boxes but don't see O22K (Spring Seat), H1CI (Flat Washer), GX3D (Nylok Nut), or know if the JDAE spacers I have are the same as the JDAF referenced in the pic.

 

[Gtstorey]

I’m pretty sure the would have came with BC coilover but I sourced mine fro BC so don’t know for sure how DF would have packaged it.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I’m pretty sure the would have came with BC coilover but I sourced mine fro BC so don’t know for sure how DF would have packaged it.

I already had the BC coilovers, so I was told I just needed the supporting hardware. The problem is I can't seem to locate them and was hoping someone knew what stage box they came in.

 

[r3drckt]

O22K and JDAF were packaged together with the BC Coilovers for me. The rest were in their own bag.

 

[Gtstorey]

I meant to say the spring seat would probably have come from BC.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I meant to say the spring seat would probably have come from BC.

The top part of the coilover looks nothing like that on a cobalt and when I was discussing the coilovers with Adam he said the camber plate and upper spring seat aren't used from the donor. I guess I'm calling DF on Monday.

 

[Sluggonaut]

While on the topic of the front end, I have a front tie rod question.

Using the notes I collected from reading other build logs and researching the topic specifically, I installed the tie rods/ends that came with the kit on the front and will be using the replacement Cobalt parts on the rear toe link.

This research also revealed that a good starting point for the outer tie rod ends is about 1" of threads showing including those under the jam nut. However, when I do this both my hubs are facing significantly outward and to get anywhere near straight on both sides I have 2" of threads showing, leaving about an inch of thread inside the rod end. I likely need to move them out some more, but I won't know for sure how much until the initial alignment some time down the road.

I know the number of turns lock-to-lock differs between the SS racks and the regular racks, but is there a difference in which tie rods I should be using on my SS rack? If the ones in the kit are shorter, it seems like the longer ones may be a better option so I have more threads covered by the tie rod ends.

 

[Gtstorey]

Mine has about 1.75” if you don’t count the jam nut

 

[Gtstorey]

I have 2” from the jam nut on the other side.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Long night trying to get the subframe mounted. First I had IC pump interference with the subframe and then I ran into the usual front trans mount alignment issue. I expected it, but it was frustrating because it was off by such a small amount. I could get the end of the bolt started but it was misaligned enough that I couldn't get it through.

I then attempted the solution posted by Lonny and others of loosening all the motor mount bolts. No matter where I try to lift with the jack to manipulate everything, I cannot get as close as I was when the motor mounts were torqued, subframe bolts loose, and trans mount bolts loose.

My alignment is like all the other pics I've seen posted with the trans mount hole below and forward of the subframe hole. Any tricks or tips on where to lift to try and exert the upward/rearward pressure to get these holes aligned?

I also ran into the issue of having short threads on 2 of the 3 LCA bolts from my donor. The one with long threads goes in fine but using one of the short thread ones on the other side results in the threads stopping the bolt before it is in all the way. I also posted this on another thread where I saw Fozda had the same issue.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Subframe installed successfully.

I tried the methods listed in a few other build logs but I still couldn't quite get the front trans mount hole to line up with the subframe.

• I went a different route and removed the front trans mount. I made sure to remove the powder coating in all of the holes even though the bolts fit through fine.
• Instead of reinstalling the front mount to the trans, I loosely attached it to the subframe.
• I raised the subframe into place and lined up the 2 front trans mount holes and started the 2 bolts into the trans but did not tighten.
• I went around and installed all of the subframe bolts and the rear trans mount.
• Once all the bolts were started, I torqued all 4 subframe bolts. I did need to use a ratchet strap to get the right rear of the chassis to line up with the LCA bushing bolt hole.
• Once all 4 subframe bolts were torqued, I torqued the rear trans mount to the trans and then the mount-to-subframe bolts.
• Finally, I torqued the front trans mount to the trans and then the mount-to-subframe bolt.

I did all of this with the motor mount bolts torqued in place and did not need to jack or hoist the engine/trans to get things lined up. The only parts needing alignment was a light tap on the front trans mount while rotating it into place to start the 2 front mount-to-trans bolts and a ratchet strap to pull the rear chassis upright into place over the right rear LCA bushing. This was far easier than my previous attempt at everything loose and trying to use a jack to line up the one front trans bolt hole.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I'm moving back into the cabin since the rear end is at a standstill waiting on parts.

I completed my Chris_WNC steering wheel relocation, which was needed after installing the shorter seat brackets.

Mounting the IPC and switch panel is next on the list, along with cleaning/soldering some ground wires, linking the 3 ground posts, and mocking up the boost/AFR gauges.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I connected the button panel wiring and temporarily installed the button panel and IPC. Once I get past the first start and confirm all is working, I'll wrap the wiring and tuck it away.

I need to fabricate a different mount for the dual gauge pod now that I moved the steering column forward. There's enough room to bolt the pod (CTUINSTRA's version) to the steering column bracket instead of the steering column, but there's not enough clearance for the nylon tubing and nut that connects to the rear of the boost gauge. I'll try to fabricate a bracket to bolt to the original holes on the steering column bracket.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Correct
Understood. I'd probably insulate the metal where the wires are, unless the edge of the metal is duller than it looks. That'd be a wear point, down the road.

The edge is the same as the rest of the tunnel. I used an edge trim piece just like the piece provided in the kit for the bulkhead and side of the tunnel near the BCM. With the wires taped back up and the trim piece in place, I don't think there will be any wear issues.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Working on the car tonight I noticed a port on the K04 with no hose. I didn't unplug anything so just curious about what this port is for and why I didn't have anything connected to it:

 

[Sluggonaut]

I'm watching the archived videos to try and get to my first start. I'm hooking up the fuel pump lines to the fuel filter, but I have no way of connecting the fuel filter to the fuel rail. Is the fuel line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail included in the kit or is that something I should have from my donor?

 

[Rauq]

If I recall correctly this line was fabricated from kit parts. It's a bit of the nylon line plus two supplied quick connect barbed elbows. Inserting the barbs can be a pain.