Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
After finishing up all my wiring and bolting up the exhaust, I get no crank despite everything working fine previously.

Aside from the wiring, the only other change since it ran last was bleeding the brakes/clutch, which required the removal of the fusebox to access the clutch bleeder. So I went to check all of the connections and it seems the nut in the C2 connector (wide gray one second from the rear) is stripped. There's metal powder in the bottom of the fusebox and it just won't tighten up. Everything else seemed to work. So with the other connectors snapped into place, I pushed C2 against the upper half of the fuse box to try to get the nut to seat. Even though it didn't feel like it was tightening, the C2 block is now snug against the top and I haven't been able to get it off. I reassembled everything and now the headlights aren't working and the rear turn signals are back to fast blink, meaning there is a loss of communication with the BCM where the resistors and front turn signal connections are located. This just confirms the C2 block is the problem, as it was probably the Clutch Start Switch signal that was not going through initially and now the low beam relay control is an issue also.

Is there any way to replace the bolt for C2 in the top fuse box piece or the nut in the C2 connector? A new fusebox was a possible item on my list due to all my missing clips as it was, but that would only address the bolt - the stripped C2 nut is going to be an issue if it is not replaceable.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Those bolts and nuts appear to be M6x1.0. I was able to get the bolt out and clean it up, but the nut in the C2 connector is trashed. I found an M6 nut and was able to bolt the connector onto the top fuse box piece and then assemble the fuse box. Unfortunately, all of the stuff I had working is no longer working and I also have the new no crank.

It's most likely a wiring issue, which is my absolute weakness when it comes to this build.

Honestly, this has taken the wind out of my sails on the push to get this thing done. I finally got HP Tuners and was looking forward to my first test drive, but now I can't start it and the lights I just had working fine are no longer working. I may be taking a break for a little while.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I had a lot of problems with the individual wire connectors on the larger fuse box connectors and the more you take it apart the worse it gets. I had to pull out all of the individual wires and us a small screwdriver to pry the tangs over to tighten them up.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I had a lot of problems with the individual wire connectors on the larger fuse box connectors and the more you take it apart the worse it gets. I had to pull out all of the individual wires and us a small screwdriver to pry the tangs over to tighten them up.
What he said.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
The M6 nut under the stripped captured nut on C2 was a good fix, but when I bolted everything back in I was too cautious with the other bolts. I went back over the other bolts and after I tightened them up the problem was solved. So the stripped bolt was the cause and it was the fix, but I caused another issue by not tightening the others down enough.

I called Capt Frank's insurance lady whose office is probably only 40 minutes from me. I temporarily slapped the hood on for some pics for insurance and figured I might as well see if it moves under its own power. I went up and down my street a few times to make sure it moved and the brakes worked. My neighbor and son wanted to see it so I took it up and down the street one more time; however, after I pulled away in first gear it stopped moving. It's like the car is in neutral even when it's in gear.

I've done some digging and some testing, but I need to start working through some tear down to see what failed.

The car doesn't move when in gear, the speedometer climbs with the car in gear and accelerating even though the car doesn't move (diff is spinning?) and I noticed the opposite wheel no longer spins when loosening the other's axle nut. I'm hoping it's just the intermediate shaft or my brand new driveshafts, as it would really suck if the diff is toast.

I'll pull the driveshafts first to see if the splines are shot (doubting the brand new axles got toasted after 300 yards of idle and off-idle use) and then check the intermediate shaft. If that all looks good I'll drain the trans fluid and see if I have chunks - if the diff went I would expect chunks in the fluid.

If none of these prove to be the issue, I need to drop the power train and open up the trans. I guess it could be a clutch, TOB, or slave cylinder but I'm not sure at this point.

If anyone has any other tests or parts to check, please let me know. I'm trying to organize my next steps from least invasive to most invasive.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
My car did that when I was at the DF factory. Lonny rescued me, and showed me how to fully press in an axle using a 5 foot long bar, wedged against a tire. I drove about 100 miles with my axle half in, then it popped out of the transmission.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
My car did that when I was at the DF factory. Lonny rescued me, and showed me how to fully press in an axle using a 5 foot long bar, wedged against a tire. I drove about 100 miles with my axle half in, then it popped out of the transmission.
I remember reading about this in your thread but you never went into detail. Can you elaborate in case this is my issue? It is near the top of the list of suspects.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
To check if your axle/half shaft has slipped out, jack the rear wheels off the ground, leave the transmission in gear, and check if either rear wheel will spin freely.

To push an axle into a transmission, press it in. Using a 5' bar, and a axle fork
33367

Press the CV joint into the transmission. Lonny used the rear tire to pry against.
 
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r3drckt

Goblin Guru
I’m surprised you’re axles would come loose like that. I pushed mine in with my hands until the retainer clicked in place and that was it. Was a little tough, but expected.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
It clicked when I put it in originally, but I guess they can click twice. I pulled everything off the side and I sort of got stuck in no man's land where I couldn't push the axle in any further and I couldn't get it out all the way. Somewhere in the middle of that, I could get it to turn, so I rotated it while leaning on it and it popped into place. It definitely went in further than it did the first time. If it is about 3/8" away from the seal, it's not all the way in, once it popped in that changed to about 1/4" or less from the seal.

I put everything back together and test drove it successfully.

It was dark so I aimed it at the garage door and got the lights aimed correctly.

I tested the turn signals in the on position and no hyper flash. When the car is running, the right side still hyper flashes, so not sure what that's about.

I also jacked up the front end as high as I could in order to pull the IC hoses up front and remove the one elbow that was leaking. After I drained the coolant and got the elbow off, it looks like most of the tape I thought I put on was gone, so I wrapped it a few times before reinstalling. I topped off the Option B tank and cycled the coolant through and no more leaks.

The car runs fine, but until I get it out on the road to drive it, I won't know how far off the existing tune is with the different intake and exhaust in Goblin form. I still need to figure out how to get HP Tuners working.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Tape on the coolant elbow? Outside or inside? I hope not inside if it is gone, it may be caught in the radiator or water pump. :eek:
It was just kind of shredded, not sure if it's inside or out but I'll probably find out as I drive it. If IAT's are really high or the lovely hum of the IC pump goes away I'll know why. I'd rather it get caught there than make it into the intake.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I assume you are talking about Teflon tape on the treads. It's not unusual to not really be able to see much left after you take apart a joint, especially if you didn't put much on to start with. And even more so if it was the cheap thin stuff.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I assume you are talking about Teflon tape on the treads. It's not unusual to not really be able to see much left after you take apart a joint, especially if you didn't put much on to start with. And even more so if it was the cheap thin stuff.
I didn't put that much on initially not knowing how much was needed and not wanting to prevent it from threading in all the way. This time, I put at least 3 revolutions on and it screwed all the way in without a problem.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Is the stock upper radiator hose the best shape for the return/t-stat side on the Goblin?

I need to replace mine and was just curious if that was the best option or if there is a better-shaped hose to use.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
The first real test drive went great today. I only had 2 issues. First was a stuck accelerator pedal. When I was comfortable with how it was driving and handling, I went to give it more than the less-than-half throttle I had been giving it. Fortunately, I was only in 2nd gear and I was able to hit the clutch and cut the ignition after it bounced off the rev limiter a couple of times. The pedal got stuck up against the tunnel. I haven't really looked at that closely yet, but I am hoping the pedal box can be bent a little to create some space.

The reason I didn't look at it closely yet is that I was busy spreading litter under the car to catch all the coolant belching out onto the ground. I couldn't really see exactly where it was coming from but it looks like it was the hose at the t-stat where I had the clamping issue previously. That hose is much softer than the others and it could be compromised there. Since I am tearing everything apart to get a look at it, I'm going to replace it while I am in there.

I didn't have problems with coolant previously, but this is also the first time I tried to get it up to temp and try to get all of the air out of the system. Looks like a few more hours of work before I get it up to the gas station for its first full tank.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Is the stock upper radiator hose the best shape for the return/t-stat side on the Goblin?

I need to replace mine and was just curious if that was the best option or if there is a better-shaped hose to use.
It rolls in just right. You can raid the nearest parts house to see if something fits better, but I'm sure stock is the best.
 
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Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I was able to connect HP Tuners to my Goblin and see it in VCM Scanner. I was also able to read my file using VCMEditor; however, I have no clue as to what I am looking at. Some of it is intuitive but other parts are completely foreign.

Should I be reading the HPT forum or is there a video series on how to get started?
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I got the coolant hose off and it looks like the second clamp I worked in there from my first coolant leak was not all the way on the hose. I tore everything off and swapped out the hose, which was also kind of soft on the end. Now that all the coolant is out of the system it's an easy fix. I also retrieved the original spring clamp that slid down around the t-stat housing.

I checked all of the clamps while I was in there and put everything back together. I took it for a few laps around the block, topping off the coolant as I went. There were no leaks and the warmest I could get it on the IP was 181 degrees, but it stayed right at 176 idling in the garage and held steady at 174 while doing laps. It looks like I'll get to make my maiden voyage to the gas station the next dry day we have.

I'd like to know if my fan works but I've read enough build logs to know I won't know for sure until I see temps over 200 degrees, so I'll keep an eye on that.

I still need to chase down my hyper flash issue for the right side that only happens with the engine running, as it is normal when it's just key-on power. I thought I understood how that all worked until this happened - I realize I still have no clue when it comes to the electrical stuff. lol

Footwell cover is next and I'm hoping to receive the wrap samples I ordered so I can make a decision on wrap and get the hood and side panels done after that.
 
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