Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I have a feeling it will need to be tweaked to match the gauge, whether it's a difference in formula or voltage interpretation by the ECU. If the exercise is to log what the gauge is showing, it will need something to make it work. I'm just not sure what that tweak is at the moment.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Wouldn't the tweak be a simple math offset? Like when we changed from .58 to .5 offset.
Add a correction offset, drive the car, and see if the gauge lambda is reading the same as the HP Tuners math calculated lambda.
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I think you need to start with why it stops reading after a few minutes unless you have that figured out and I missed it.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
As far as the formula is concerned this a linear y=Mx+b equation where m is the slope and b is the offset. Their formula matches the data table they gave you. If their data isn’t right then you will have to get the voltage and lambda at two points far enough apart to be able to calculate a new offset and slope. With only a single point of comparison you don’t know of the slope or offset or both are wrong. I would confirm that your wiring has pretty much 0 ohms resistance and if that checks good check with your WB manufacturer. How do you that the gauge is correct and the voltage signal is incorrect?

another thought, you did tie the sensor reference ground to the low reference wire from the ECM?
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
How do you that the gauge is correct and the voltage signal is incorrect?

another thought, you did tie the sensor reference ground to the low reference wire from the ECM?
I have not confirmed, it was merely an assumption especially since everything I've read suggests some sort of adjustment to the offset is normal.

I have not logged anything besides the few minutes idling in the garage. I need to get a camera set up to record the gauge so I am not just comparing occasional glimpses to a recorded log file, as that will be hard to match up.

I connected the white analog wire from my AEM WB to the red/black AC Pressure Sensor Signal wire. I am not sure if anything I have done so far is correct and hoping to get some sort of result to see if I've stumbled across a usable solution. Once we get through this next stretch of rain, I plan to get some actual driving data logged and gauge readings recorded.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I would swap the brown to the ecm low reference for the AC pressure switch (Assuming your's is like this 30-0300 X-Series UEGO Gauge (aemelectronics.com) ). "the BROWN wire must be connected to the negative of the analog input of the logging device or ECU. "

I think this is for the 2006 but yours is probably the same. I hope you are soldering you connections also. All of the connections need to be as low resistance as possible.
Wiring Wideband O2 Sensors | DF Kit Car Forum
33651
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Mine is the 0300 X-Series UEGO. I read that and made it down to the last section of the paragraph you referenced that said to use the power ground as a last resort, as I wasn't sure if the low reference wire was the same as the 'negative of the logging device'.

I'll try to fish a wire through the tunnel and switch the ground over to the low reference wire and see what it does. It'll check the resistance while I am in there.

My wire colors were the same as the 2006 reference from Alldatadiy.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Do the NACA ducts get trimmed before installation? I thought they just got riveted on as is, but mine seem to be protruding just a tad.

33708
33709
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru

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Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Dropped my hood off with the wrap guy. Will finally get to call the current version done once I get it back and installed.

I already miss my wind shield.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I would swap the brown to the ecm low reference for the AC pressure switch (Assuming your's is like this 30-0300 X-Series UEGO Gauge (aemelectronics.com) ). "the BROWN wire must be connected to the negative of the analog input of the logging device or ECU. "
Just an update for others searching this topic, Al from ZZP states that the low reference line can be used, but he has had the best results using the same exact ground as the gauge. Either way is fine as long as it works.

#AC pressure sensor #low reference #brown wire #30-0300 UEGO
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I haven't done much work on the car recently, as I've been driving it in my free time instead of working on it.

I did get the hood back from rap and I tried my hand at wrapping the side panels. It sure gets warm in the cabin with both the windshield and side panels installed. Took it to Cars & Coffee this morning and saw a lot of cool cars.

34788
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Cars and coffee in Rockford?

Do you have the hot air from the radiator blocked off over the top of the front 'firewall' panel? If not, that is about the only air entering the cabin with the hood, windshield and side panels in place. :eek: Maybe need the footwell cover?
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Cars and coffee in Rockford?
Yes, the Rockford Cars and Coffee. I had not been to that one before and it was pretty impressive as far as my limited Cars and Coffee experience goes.

Do you have the hot air from the radiator blocked off over the top of the front 'firewall' panel? If not, that is about the only air entering the cabin with the hood, windshield and side panels in place. :eek: Maybe need the footwell cover?

I have a footwell cover but I am not using it yet, that is a project for the off-season.

The air coming into my cabin is fresh air from under and over the windshield - I didn't really notice any hot air from the radiator creeping in. The cabin air is just very stagnant with everything installed and the engine was the main contributor along with the hot weather. The engine heat wasn't really that bad except when sitting still in traffic and you could feel it on your neck and head before it started to creep in around your shoulders.

In addition to the footwell cover and timing chain work I have planned for the off-season, I'm also considering the acrylic behind the seats and a rear diffuser to help keep the engine heat in the rear.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
After reading a lot of posts about alignment, suspension, and treadwear ratings, I'm curious about my experience so far.

Setup
Tires: I'm still running my "build" wheels and tires that are 600 TW all season tires.
Suspension: My suspension is set to what I saw in various posts for recommended settings during the build process. I'm using the BC coil overs in the rear and I haven't adjusted the front or rear since building and racking up 150-ish miles.
Alignment: I followed the DF method using toe plates. I plan to try the string method or take it in somewhere but that's on the to-do list still. It's not high on the list though because the car is stable and tracks straight.

Experience
I have not autocrossed or tracked it so far. My use case is a mix of casual and moderately-aggressive street driving. I have yet to have any traction issues, even under hard acceleration and aggressive shifting. I've slowly worked my way up the "throttle use" ladder after reading about 600 TW ires being like ice skates on these things. What surprised me, is that in the little time I drove the donor, I could break the right front loose on 2nd and 3rd gear pulls, but I don't get that in the Goblin. The tires will chirp during high-RPM gear shifts but I've never had any traction loss.

I'm running 32 PSI tire pressure right now, as that is how they came off the previous car. I thought I'd have to drop them down to the 20 PSI range like everyone else has done, but I don't feel the need to yet though because the ride and feedback seem just fine. However, I do plan to play with tire pressure at some point to see if there is a difference.

I guess my main question is, are traction issues mainly on the track or very aggressive street driving scenarios? Or are traction issues on the street usually a driver mod issue?

I'm sure I could generate some traction issues by dumping the clutch or letting off mid-turn, but when driving the car the way it should I don't have any issues. I'm just curious as to why my experience so far seems far different than what I expected after reading many posts. Or did I get lucky and magically land on the dialed-in setting during my build?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Do you have the Quaife differential (G85 option code)? That helps by using both rear tires.
Is your engine weak, or need tuning? What is your 0-60 times? (I'm low 4 seconds, so not fast compared to the turbo guys)
I enjoy acceleration, and enjoy full throttle, but keeping the rear planted on my Goblin took the Quaife differential and sticky wide tires. Your LSJ-T should be making more than my tired LSJ-SC.
 
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