Solid Shifter OFFICIAL GROUP BUY

SACTX

Well-Known Member
With warmer weather around, I finally was able to get the car out this year. The more I drive it, the more convinced I am that my shifting issues are the transmission, and not the shifter.

Aside from the 4-5 shift being difficult due to the gate placement, it's also a bit finicky even once it's in gear. You really have to force it ALL the way into 5th, otherwise it will pop out of gear. Even once I do that, it will occasionally pop out of 5th under deceleration, even if it was comfortably engaged before then. I'll just be driving along, and all the sudden I get 4000 rpm and no acceleration. I end up having to drive with my hand on the shifter all the time, forcing it into gear.

I suspect the trans has had a hard life. I just bought a new F23 from the DF store, and will be undertaking that project soon. I already have a new long-block engine, might as well have a new trans too, right?
One other thing to look at regarding it staying in fifth gear is your coolant line routing on top of the transmission. It can hit the counter weight and push it out of fifth gear. I had that happening to mine before I made some adjustments to the hose.
 

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TheNuker

Goblin Guru
One other thing to look at regarding it staying in fifth gear is your coolant line routing on top of the transmission. It can hit the counter weight and push it out of fifth gear. I had that happening to mine before I made some adjustments to the hose.
Had this same issue, except mine just make it harder to get into 5th gear. Easy enough to fix.

Nuker-
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Sorry to revive this thread from the bowels of hades, but in need of some adjustment advice for the Group Buy shifter.

I'd like it to be a little shorter throw between forward and back, say 2nd to 3rd gear throw. Would I just shorten B toward the 'Up' direction?
Red A- I know that moving from the two holes adjust the left/right distance.
Green B- How does this post on the bottom of the lever up/down adjust the throw?
Blue C - What does this little brass knob do?

Edit in bold to make the question more clear.

38110
 
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Chubbs

Well-Known Member
Changing the length of pushrod B does NOT affect the throw. It merely lengthens or shortens the effective length of the cable, which changes the center position of the shifter. Move it too far, and you won't be able to select a gear at all.

The throw is controlled by the length of the screw at the bottom of the shifter, see attached, red arrow. Loosen the jam nut and un-screw the ball thingy (technical term) to make it longer. That will shorten your throw.

You could also cut down the shift lever to make it shorter between the knob and the shift mechanism.

As for "C", I think it is a stop to prevent excessive throw if you don't need it. I think....I'm not entirely sure, as I haven't needed to adjust mine.
 

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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Changing the length of pushrod B does NOT affect the throw. It merely lengthens or shortens the effective length of the cable, which changes the center position of the shifter. Move it too far, and you won't be able to select a gear at all.

The throw is controlled by the length of the screw at the bottom of the shifter, see attached, red arrow. Loosen the jam nut and un-screw the ball thingy (technical term) to make it longer. That will shorten your throw.
I'm sorry, my original post wasn't clear and I edited it to make it better for future people (if there are more). I was asking if I could shorten or lengthen that nut/post to make the throw shorter. It just wasn't clear from my photo. What you provided was what I was asking for a description of. So the longer I make the post from your picture away from the shift know makes the shift knob throw shorter.
I'll start playing with that post up and down to see if it does what I want it to. I just needed confirmation before I started messing with it.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Thanks! I got a good idea what to do now. I don't know why I was thinking to go shorter, longer is the right way to make the throw shorter.
 
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