Steering

Davidljones88

Well-Known Member
Not exactly suspension, but could be related..

The Goblin turns with a single finger and feels pretty loose even at 30 mph. The suspension is an immovable object. The thing doesn't rock at all with the BC coilovers.

How can I get a little more resistance with the steering without removing the electric power steering?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Put on bigger tires. Softer rubber. Are you at 3 degrees camber? Lowering that will put more tire on the road. I'm at 0.5 degrees.
My suspension moves... kind of the point. These progressive springs are working well for me. The stock 400lb/in up front springs were too rough for me.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Yup. Tires and alignment are the big things. Also, try unplugging the power to your power steering and see if you like the manual steering better.

If it's very darty going over bumps, ensure that the toelink bar on the back is installed correctly. I put mine in upside down and the car was a handful to drive.
 

Davidljones88

Well-Known Member
Put on bigger tires. Softer rubber. Are you at 3 degrees camber? Lowering that will put more tire on the road. I'm at 0.5 degrees.
My suspension moves... kind of the point. These progressive springs are working well for me. The stock 400lb/in up front springs were too rough for me.
I'm not sure of the camber. The builder said he did increase it.
 

Davidljones88

Well-Known Member
Yup. Tires and alignment are the big things. Also, try unplugging the power to your power steering and see if you like the manual steering better.

If it's very darty going over bumps, ensure that the toelink bar on the back is installed correctly. I put mine in upside down and the car was a handful to drive.
Great ideas! Thanks!
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
To add onto this thread - related to the issue at hand: I'm working with @AZmoto to get the suspension setup correct. We have aligned the rear suspension (1.5* camber, 1/4 inch total toe in) and the front (7.5* caster, 1.0* camber, 1/4 inch total toe in). Getting some dartiness going over bumps. The rear toe rack is installed correctly - not upside down. The front steering arms are installed upper front hole, lower rear hole, to their lowest height. The LCAs are level.. Is there a specific angle the tie rods should be if everything is set to the DF recommendations?
 

Dsteinhorst

Well-Known Member
I've always thought having the front lower arms level was way too low. I got inch longer shocks and have raised it probably 2-3" over level. Right now, the arms are at a similar but opposite angle from horizontal.

This height adjustment also puts my tie rods about dead horizontal, which cuts down on bump steer.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Rear ride height is tie rods level. Then set toe. In a search, it was suggested and seems to be the best spot. I have been up and down with the rear on mine and feel rear tie rods level is the correct height.

I have been bouncing around the front. Nothing solid yet. If you use front top hole on the steering arm and drill a hole at the lowest possible spot, you will cause a horrible death steering. Ask me how I know. :eek: Possibly lower front hole and drill new rear as low as possible, may help, but I haven’t tested it yet. Front upper/rear lower seems to be the best overall as offered.

I run a lot less camber than recommended: -0.5 to -0.8. Up front.

and as always. Tire pressure under 20psi all around. Around 18 is where I’m at on R888R’s.

font splitter/wing help with stability, but too much seems to add to dirtiness. There’s a fine line.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Rear ride height is tie rods level....

I have been bouncing around the front. Nothing solid yet. If you use front top hole on the steering arm and drill a hole at the lowest possible spot, you will cause a horrible death steering. Ask me how I know. :eek: Possibly lower front hole and drill new rear as low as possible, may help, but I haven’t tested it yet. Front upper/rear lower seems to be the best overall as offered.
...
Russell, the new kits come with only one set of holes for the steering arm to bolt to.
37347


Our older uprights had 2 holes in them, and that is what Russell is referring to when he says
"Front upper/rear lower seems to be the best overall as offered."
37345
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Ya I know. I found that out when we were building the goblin at goblin fest. DS mentioned the optional holes, so I offered the advice that I have seen on mine that should be the same as the one he’s working on.
 

Chubbs

Well-Known Member
I have been bouncing around the front. Nothing solid yet. If you use front top hole on the steering arm and drill a hole at the lowest possible spot, you will cause a horrible death steering. Ask me how I know. :eek:
Is a broken steering bracket how you know?

I tried the same thing (drilling holes to move the bracket down). At full lock steering, the tie rod bound up and put so much pressure on the bracket it ripped it apart.

I would not recommend drilling extra holes.
 

Attachments

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I have been bouncing around the front. Nothing solid yet. If you use front top hole on the steering arm and drill a hole at the lowest possible spot, you will cause a horrible death steering. Ask me how I know. :eek: Possibly lower front hole and drill new rear as low as possible, may help, but I haven’t tested it yet. Front upper/rear lower seems to be the best overall as offered.
Did you drill the steering arm or the knuckle? I drilled a new hole on the knuckle to lower the steering arm.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Is a broken steering bracket how you know?

I tried the same thing (drilling holes to move the bracket down). At full lock steering, the tie rod bound up and put so much pressure on the bracket it ripped it apart.

I would not recommend drilling extra holes.
This is also the old style steering arm that DF offered to replace a while back.
 
Top