Stretch’s ext. track goblin #386 SS/TC

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
It's possible the SS bar has different bends between the mounting points on the subframe (I assume that is where it hits). I don't know if there is anyone running the SS sway bar on the turbo SS. My donor had an aftermarket 29mm sway on it and I went with the non SS bar when I bought one.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I just checked mine and it is extremely close to the muffler. Probably about a 1/4” clearance. It wouldn’t have taken much of a stack up of tolerances to make it hit. It looks like it might help if you shorten your end links but you would need to check the full travel.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Did you reuse the swaybar links from your donor? I believe Russell (rttoys) and others have recommended using the SS links since they are shorter, which may turn the swaybar to get the maximum clearance?
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
Did you reuse the swaybar links from your donor? I believe Russell (rttoys) and others have recommended using the SS links since they are shorter, which may turn the swaybar to get the maximum clearance?
My donor was an ss. It’s not really the links. There’s like an inch or so of clearance in between the muffler and the subframe. I don’t have a picture at the moment
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
So I’m thinking of trying some scoops to help the warmer air in the nose. I thought of the scoops the f1s used on the brakes and was thinking of a way to get rid of the turbulent air in the front without having to cut the body or flip a fan. I plan on strengthening the cutouts later and trying it this weekend. I have some probes that I’ll set in the nose to see if it actually makes a difference. I’m not having issues but just curious in ways to help out the heat exchanger since I’m in Florida.
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Is this air being directed at and/or away from the HE? Or are you trying to get a crossflow of air in the area behind the radiator? Assuming you are using the fan to pull air up through the HE? Is the bottom of the frame still open or did you enclose it with an opening for the HE? If this area is open the air you are trying to direct will mostly flow out the bottom around the HE.



Not to say your idea doesn't have merit, but all of the airflow in the nose needs to be considered to get it to move in the direction you want it too. PM me if you would like some more explanation and some thoughts on how to improve your idea.
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
Is this air being directed at and/or away from the HE? Or are you trying to get a crossflow of air in the area behind the radiator? Assuming you are using the fan to pull air up through the HE? Is the bottom of the frame still open or did you enclose it with an opening for the HE? If this area is open the air you are trying to direct will mostly flow out the bottom around the HE.



Not to say your idea doesn't have merit, but all of the airflow in the nose needs to be considered to get it to move in the direction you want it too. PM me if you would like some more explanation and some thoughts on how to improve your idea.
My idea is to help flush out the warmer air that may be turbulent or stagnant. I was hoping the scoop and exit would have a push/vacuum affect of giving it an exit rather than going back into the cabin or whatnot. I’m not struggling with heat or anything I was just curious if I could get a flow through the car
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The open sides and bottom of the nose area will not really hold much air with the car in motion. This area will have lower air pressure directly behind the radiator in front of the side openings in the hood, but this helps to pull air through the radiator (along with the higher pressure in front of the radiator). The area above the HE will be somewhat turbulent with the bottom of the nose left open, thus the reason to have a fan to pull it up through the HE or NACA ducts to blow air down through the HE when the car is moving. Adding a side scoops to force more air into and out this area may help reduce the turbulent air to make some it crossflow. To refine your idea, and this is just my thinking out loud, making the side pieces both scoops will force more air into the area and force the air to flow mostly out of the bottom of the open nose. Conversely making both side piece as air extractors will create a higher vacuum in the area which will try to pull air from under the open nose, but also make most air flow out of the side openings in the hood. Again, with the open bottom under the nose, different speeds will enhance or hurt either of these solutions.
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
I thought about dual vents out too for the vacuum effect. I also ran out of cardboard and time. I’d hope that two backwards vents could help pull air up and through the heat exchanger and radiator at speed. I’m just running the fan but I think if I can get that effect it might help it. I’ll get a candle and a leaf blower for my wind tunnel lol
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I will be enclosing the bottom of the nose on my Goblin and creating air extractors similar to your idea - basically curved side plates - on the frontmost edges of the hood side openings to create a higher vacuum affect within the area behind the radiator and encourage the air to flow out of the side openings. You are on the right track and your idea is a good one.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Just to follow up on the idea I'm kicking around for the air extractors at the front opening - a simple metal plate welded to the frame. These will be as wide as the frame edge at the rear of the opening. This helps create better airflow across the whole open gap between the hood edges and the side panels that are angled forward.
 

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Scott #321

Well-Known Member
Just to follow up on the idea I'm kicking around for the air extractors at the front opening - a simple metal plate welded to the frame. These will be as wide as the frame edge at the rear of the opening. This helps create better airflow across the whole open gap between the hood edges and the side panels that are angled forward.
interested to see how this works. bee kicking around the idea of front Aero similar to that posted below but narrower and at a much steeper angle to kill two birds with one stone.
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
@ManDan1957 was one of the first to install a wing on the nose. Keep in mind that angling a wing airfoil more than about 18-20 degrees makes it ineffective at creating downforce. As the angle goes up it makes an exponentially increasing amount of drag and no downforce above 30ish degrees. This is the reason to keep the aerodynamic improvements separate from the cooling airflow in this case. This is just my 2 cents worth and you can build your Goblin as you like, just wanted to put this info out there for an understanding of how a wing should be mounted.
 

Stretch2126

Well-Known Member
The other night I stopped by the night turkey rod run in Daytona. Cruising down A1A with hundreds of other hot rods is awesome
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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
A1A, beach front avenue

We’re you
roll’n in your 2.0
With the rag top down so your hair can blow?
 
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