Stretch’s ext. track goblin #386 SS/TC

[Vwsaabvt]

So some good and bad so far…
The pros are that the intercooler setup is all on and hopefully all the leaks have been fixed. The firewall is also finally in since I won’t have to reach back there too much hopefully

The cons are that the relocation block is leaking brake fluid from the brass fittings and they cannot be tightened at all to try to counter it short term. I’ll also need to contact DF to get a different set of seat brackets because I’m running two different sizes seats. All fixable stuff but not going to be driveable I’m afraid.

If anyone knows a solution to the fittings whether it’s Loctite or anything like that feel free to share

Is the brake fluid leaking from the fitting at the threads or where the hose is attached to it? A few of us just skipped the kit parts and went with upgraded lines

 

[Stretch2126]

Is the brake fluid leaking from the fitting at the threads or where the hose is attached to it? A few of us just skipped the kit parts and went with upgraded lines

It’s coming out of the brass NPT fittings slowly it looks like. I might find some of the hydraulic Loctite stuff specifically for it

 

[Rttoys]

Liquid Teflon is probably not compatible with brake fluid, but if you have some, it might be worth a shot.

 

[Stretch2126]

Liquid Teflon is probably not compatible with brake fluid, but if you have some, it might be worth a shot.

Yeah I know we have some 565 PTFE which I think is Teflon paste, but if it’s only on the further threads it might suffice. I’ve seen some people said blue Loctite too. I probably should’ve used some kinda lubricant when I put the NPT fittings in. Im ordering some straight ones

 

[Gtstorey]

I’m don’t remember any of the brake line fittings being NPT. Aren’t they all flared/compression fittings?

 

[Stretch2126]

I’m don’t remember any of the brake line fittings being NPT. Aren’t they all flared/compression fittings?

I mean the brass fittings that go into the relocation block. It’s not leaking out of where the O rings go, but where the brass 90 degree fittings go on the side.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I used red loctite per Lonny's advice I found on here somewhere and I haven't experienced any leaks.

 

[k.rollin]

I used Permatex high temp thread sealant on those connections after experiencing leaks when installed dry. Red loctite is what I've seen recommended by others whenever this has come up in the past.

Permatex 59235 High Temperature Thread Sealant, 50 ml Tube , White https://a.co/d/d4geAZR

 

[Stretch2126]

So found a bit of a problem. I didn’t bleed the clutch properly and ended up popping the throw out bearing/slave cylinder. Ordered another and a clutch pipe.

 

[Gtstorey]

I’m not sure that it’s possible to damage the slave cylinder by improper bleeding. How would that be possible? At the very most it doesn’t disengage. Over extended is another matter and the free distance should be checked.

 

[Rttoys]

I’m not sure that it’s possible to damage the slave cylinder by improper bleeding. How would that be possible? At the very most it doesn’t disengage. Over extended is another matter and the free distance should be checked.

That’s what I was thinking. Never heard of improper bleeding.

 

[Stretch2126]

I’m not fully sure either since i would think it would stop but now talking to some mechanic friends and seeing some forums I think I may have messed up. They were all along the lines of bleeding it slowly to allow the air to escape and the cylinder to travel back once let off. I pumped it like brakes and think it may have extended it before it could settle back. I checked the top elbow multiple times and it didn’t change the leak coming from the bell housing. We could see where it hit the flywheel and flung fluid through the little hole up top.
Or it may have just been it’s time after 130k miles but there’s not much else I think it could be.
So far doesn’t seem too hard but I’m going to try to save the gear oil since I just put it in the transmission.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Worn parts are always the bane of all good intentions with projects like a Goblin. If new parts are not in the cards would recommend adding the throw out bearing spacer from ZZP to help prevent an over extention.

 

[Stretch2126]

Got everything out. That starter bolt is definitely not easy. Now I have one torx bolt holding the bearing in and I stripped the head even putting my weight on top of it so I’ll have to improvise now. I can’t tell where it’s leaking yet because the housing was full of fluid and it fell all over the floor. Any ideas for the torx bolt?

 

[Gtstorey]

I think I used a chisel and maybe needle nose vice grips on the torx bolt when mine stripped. I replaced with a socket head hex bolt.

 

[Stretch2126]

I think I used a chisel and maybe needle nose vice grips on the torx bolt when mine stripped. I replaced with a socket head hex bolt.

I have an extractor kit I’ll probably use later. I don’t think I’ll be able to get vice grips on the head because the bearing sticks out just enough. Definitely not putting torx bolts back in

 

[Ross]

Lonny taught me a trick to get that torx bolt out. Hit it with a punch & hammer, hard enough to crush the aluminum washer that is behind it. That will take the pressure off of the bolt, and make extracting it easier. I also use my welder, and weld a nut on top of the stripped bolt. I replaced that bolt with a normal allan head bolt, as that stock one was a half height bolt head on it.

 

[Stretch2126]

So this transmission has become a good hurdle since the bolt head broke after using an extractor, and after drilling the shank still won’t come out. So much for 89 inch pounds and some Loctite.

 

[Gtstorey]

Red loctite?

 

[Stretch2126]

Red loctite?

I think it’s blue from the factory, but it has 130k miles and I don’t think it’s ever come apart. That last torx bit is really making this a process lol.