SwerveMonkey's Street Goblin #197 - 08 Donor

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Stage 2 - Rear suspension Torque specs
following up on post #172
Was able to get the rear suspension in place, still have to torque everything down once I have confidence the setup is to spec based on what i find here in the forums.
Going back to double check the torque specs for the rear suspension
Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Mounting NutsBracket to Body BoltsBrake Hose FittingsBushing Through BoltsShock Bolt LowerShock Bolt Upper
45 N·m + 30°90 N·m + 45°19 N·m90 N·m + 60°110 N·m90 N·m
33 lb ft + 30°66 lb ft + 45°14 lb ft66 lb ft + 60°81 lb ft66 lb ft

while marking them in sharpie at the same time where I can
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Maxxima led rear tail lights wiring scheme
Found the following at this link

Red wire will be connected to stop/turn circuit on your vehicle. The black wire is spliced into running lights, or the lights that are turned on your vehicle when the headlight switch is on. The white wire is ground and needs to be attached to a clean, bare metal surface.

End quote

I bought a few pigtails to match the lights plugs... but white and black are swapped.... so now white ground from light will match black ground on pigtail.

Got them all connected correctly in my testing, but now i realize shifting to reverse doesn't trigger the backup lights. Upon closer inspection i dont think i am actually getting into reverse using the cabin shifter. Have to go back and look at the manual adjustment writeup.
 
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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
I think I will have to follow this thread to fix my problem of not being able to shift into reverse....
same symptoms, different transmission though I think... I've a F23 i believe and images show are of the F35

as far as brake are concerned, I have yet to spot any more leaks, but the pedal does still feel a bit spongy... will have to work out why that is and triple check connection points for leaks and what not.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
February update...http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/clutch-stuck-down-no-pressure.1275/

I was able to get the shifter repaired with an F23 shifter lever bushing bought from amazon
GSKMOTOR Gear Shift Stick Repair Bush Fix Kits for Vauxhall Astra Combo Meriva Vectra Zafira F23

Brand: GSKMOTOR
$$:16.99



and now the shifter has ZERO slop in it and has a good feel again, still have my eyes on the new solid shifter buy in thread

other threads i have been looking into to fix the problem with inability to shift to reverse....

SS TC Cant shift into Reverse
left to right movement in the shifter which could be causing you not to be able to fully reach reverse -OptimizePrime
Shifter Rigging, need help.
The cables usually run a little long.
-Lonny
Shifter assembly
You may need to cut some of the threads off of the cable ends if it will not adjust short enough.
-Lonny

from these threads, I've evaluated the angle that the cables go through the rods mounted to the bracket, found that for the F23 that angle is not too restrictive once I've got the shifter lever fixed. On the other hand, I notice that the shifter cable end could be shortened to the allow better travel for the "left hand lever" cable underneath the shifter.


one other issue i am having is I noticed that the clutch pressure leaves a bit of play before pressure can be felt when pushing it down... found this thread to be some help
clutch stuck down + no pressure

although admitedly i had already bleed the clutch line and i think maybe the line is spongy from air being sucked back in during the process.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
went ahead and trimmed a small amount, 7mm off the left hand gear lever bolt. that solved the problem of getting into reverse and fifth... now to ensure that when i get into reverse the backup lights come on.... as of now, just having the ignition in the "ON" position gets my confidence that the brake lights are wired up properly, but I'm not seeing the backup lights come on when i shift into reverse. Is that normal to not have the backup light come on unless the engine is running? I'll have to test this if I can't find the answer written anywhere.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
I tested all my lights with engine off, key ON and my back up lights worked that way. My donor was a 2010 SS, that being said I wouldn't think that would be different across models...

When you say you trimmed 7mm, do you mean off the threaded end of the cable? Mine is currently difficult (lots of resistance) getting into 5th and reverse but it will go. There's a chance it's in my shifter assembly itself but not sure.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
When you say you trimmed 7mm, do you mean off the threaded end of the cable?
the forward end of the rod from the sideway motion in the shifter housing...

seeing the side to side motion of the shifter i thought i hsould reduce the amount of travel in that rod first before anything else
I considered that If I guesstimate the distance that could take off it wouldnt be a problem since I had so much overage at the shifter side of that bolt

it was only 7mm i took off... mostly because I was scared, ha ha.
 
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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
I tested all my lights with engine off, key ON and my back up lights worked that way. My donor was a 2010 SS, that being said I wouldn't think that would be different across models...
I would absolutely agree!! didn't know how the backup light activated, I know in some other models of cars there are clever maneuvers in activating the backup lights, I imagined things being way more complicated than they actually are... with that said I am going to be pulling the reverse light switch and testing it to see if it is actually moving or if it is somehow stuck... other than that II need to figure out how to test the four wires that will go to the button panel
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Check your fuse of you haven't already.
I did look at the fuse box beside the engine, is there another I should check?? i saved the panel from the donor and didn't see any backup light fuse there, hopefully i can review the wiring scheme and test the signal from the switch to the ecm ( IIRC that's the light green coming from the engine harness to ??BCM E1) have to retrace steps to diagnose.

I'll swap out the fuse just to try it out.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
or.. i could rip out the backup light switch on the transmission ...
looking at the switch and testing for continuity yielded no promising results... can & do these switches go bad??
I have to see what the resistivity should be based on cobalt spec

pics incoming
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
What's the channel? I've been watching 241 but as far as I can tell he's not on the forum.
youtube channel is the same as my screen name here.. I've been meaning to pick up lately but never remember to grab the cam, D'oh!

Thanks for the heads up on the other youtube channel, I subscribed as soon as you mentioned it, ha ha :- D

I'll definitely have to get back to recording again and showing my work on what and how I have been going with the build
so far i expect to redo the work i put in for the brake relocation, rear suspension installation, parking brake woes, & the manual shifter installation and adjustments.... about 5 video total that i personally have hung over my head, LoL

hopefully I will have time to post, most of my videos have been just me shuffling over my tools and cleaning up the work bench
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
although the build started in NY, I am now certain that the build will eventually "be complete" in MD... looking into the process for that state, it seems as stringent as NY.

for sure I will be posting in the MARYLAND REGISTRATION thread soon enough
here is the MSI system check list items I will need, for me to consider Stage three finished
the Maryland Safety Inspection also has measurements that need to be done, I have to research what those tolerances are and match them
Permanentroad testalignmentbrakesfuel syslightsmirrorsfloor/trunk pansSpeedometer/
Odometer
steeringsuspensionwheels & tiresexhaust syselectrical syshoodgear shiftDrivers seat
safety beltsmotor mountsuniversal & CV joints
Temporary ;-)bumpersfenderswipersglazing ?emissionsdoors ?

most of these items are straight forward, but I am certain that this being a kit car the state will give me a hard time for sure, good thing it's a passion project... either way Summit Point Motorsports Park & Maryland International Raceway will both be a couple hours drive away from my landing zone when i move ;-)
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
although the build started in NY, I am now certain that the build will eventually "be complete" in MD... looking into the process for that state, it seems as stringent as NY.

for sure I will be posting in the MARYLAND REGISTRATION thread soon enough
here is the MSI system check list items I will need, for me to consider Stage three finished
the Maryland Safety Inspection also has measurements that need to be done, I have to research what those tolerances are and match them
Permanentroad testalignmentbrakesfuel syslightsmirrorsfloor/trunk pansSpeedometer/
Odometer
steeringsuspensionwheels & tiresexhaust syselectrical syshoodgear shiftDrivers seat
safety beltsmotor mountsuniversal & CV joints
Temporary ;-)bumpersfenderswipersglazing ?emissionsdoors ?

most of these items are straight forward, but I am certain that this being a kit car the state will give me a hard time for sure, good thing it's a passion project... either way Summit Point Motorsports Park & Maryland International Raceway will both be a couple hours drive away from my landing zone when i move ;-)
Officer: This thing looks illegal. License and registration please.
S.M.: Sure thing officer.
Officer: This thing is registered in Montana? What are you doing driving it in Maryland?
S.M.: It's my company vehicle, from my company in Montana. Says so right there on my registration.
Officer: Well, I guess this is okay since it's registered in Montana. Just drive carefully.
S.M.: Thank you officer. Have a pleasant day. :D:D:D
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Going to next take the time to wire up the dash panel with the four wires I have...
Green-white, black-white, beige, & white

Still need to figure out the backup light problem. The corresponding fuse seems good and i even swapped it out as a secondary precaution. I am not sure how test the transmission backup switch.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
ok... re-discovered this image from the video series



and now I realize that I only need three buttons
I had convinced myself the black/white wire was some unknown that I couldn't account for

I think I'll try and re-mix the button panel that Mayor West provided some time ago.
I've some ideas to implement in lieu of what he has....
I'm always glad to build on what others have already established, Thank you M.W. !!
 
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