SwerveMonkey's Street Goblin #197 - 08 Donor

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
The brake booster was from user: Desert Sasqwatch
The master cylinder was from RockAuto...

unsure if I could specify which year and trim, many assumptions were made on my part.
I'll be putting them both in the classifieds once I do confirm which trim they are.
I am facing choosing a master cylinder for my creature. I have 2 different calipers sourced from Cobalts, 2.00” and 2.44”. Obviously my master cylinder choice must support them. Any suggestions/help could only bring me closer to a decision.
I despise doing research already done by others!
 

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
Sorry, make that 2 different sized caliper pairs, 2.00" Rear and 2.44" Front. The 2" uses a smaller brake pad, but on the same size disc.
BTW, DS tried to send me home with that same booster!, I'm glad it has found a good home. A real case of what goes around. I gave him a tub of wiring, switches, a BCM, gas pedal and other HHR leftovers when I visited his lair. (he likes to experiment.)
 

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
paired with a [Raybestos MC391187 Professional Grade Brake Master Cylinder] from Amazon that was categorized to fit a 2010.

I am pretty sure at this point it was a mismatch on the dimensions as well as the engagement point between the two...
So you are stating this combo does or does not work?

What calipers are you using and what are their piston bores?(roughly)
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
So you are stating this combo does or does not work?
this combination did not work for me. uncertain what the piston bore sizes were... rear are from donor and the front are from DF...
I think the problem was isolated to the bad combination of the booster and master cylinder not matching exactly.


the latest development is in the aesthetics department...
the engine cover is getting the sticker bomb treatment and it is slowly coming together.
the driver side panel is nearly covered and will get a bit of heat shielding to boot before applying a clear coat to hold all the scraps together.

The Side panels are getting another iteration beyond the failed previous attempt to try and get a single sheet of thick Lexan to bolt up to the frame with threaded inserts.
 

ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
this combination did not work for me. uncertain what the piston bore sizes were... rear are from donor and the front are from DF...
I think the problem was isolated to the bad combination of the booster and master

I appreciate your report on the particular pitfalls you encountered! I can determine caliper bores from your descriptions.
Oh! And I’ll add on some particularly Aussie stickers for your Goblin! My daughter's car is getting quite a few too! We are in Port Douglas on the Great Barrier Reef just now. I’ll mail them when we return in Dec.
 
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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
BIG SHOUT OUT TO @comegetjoe , as he just provided the key to the next evolution for my particular build...... a Z54 spinny boi!!

Taking the time now to start the planning and preparations for full installation in one fell swoop (presuming no major hurdles)
from what I have been reading and researching I'd hazard a guess that this should be fairly straight forward with proper planning ahead of time.

I'll take the opportunity now to bookmark a few resources that I am using and looking at before diving headlong into this...

thread from @TravMac looking at turbo options
my thread asking about the viability of the L61
the ECOTEC BUILD guide thread

a CobaltSS-dot-net thread on Ecotec upgrades

A few obscure YouTube videos are abound.... using them as inspiration & general guidance mainly, not full on instructional videos..... i mean how much can a twenty minute video really cover <shrug>

Might Car Mods - how to turbo a car
Mighty Car Mods - budget turbo build
Alex Garcia - ZZP Z54 Turbo install
Jimmy Oakes - turbo kit unboxing
MZopyrus - Turbo kit parts outline

although it might not be enough space...
here's an idea that's just for kicks and giggles.
UEL Header on a Civic

As i get a clearer picture of how the "totally smooth & unhindered" execution of this will go more info will be added... I'm going to be posting in the boosted sub-forum once I start the process and can provide info that others might be able to use at some point.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
resource find from Garrett Motion, turbo replacement notes,
TL ; DR
  • make sure mating surfaces are immaculate
  • install with new oil feed lines to reduce chance of old lines being damaged
  • make sure flexible hoses will not be exposed to heat damage
  • pre-lube by hand and allow oil to pass through the turbo
  • after install, crank engine without start for 10-15 secs to prime oil feed
  • check, double check, & TRIPLE CHECK after engine start up to ensure there is no leakage of oil
Garrett also has a super simple diagnostic guide that i may end up referencing a few times...


25Jan25 addition EDIT: adding another good vid on turbo install tips... Youtube Video
 
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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Turbo in hand, I've to figure out how this beast is going to be mounted.
looking into options for a header, i find that the only viable off the shelf reliability might be the ZZP header.
it will require an additional adapter between the header and block to obstruct the SAI channels : Manifold Spacer

ZZP has this posted on the spacer page on the order of parts related to the L61
Head > ZZP exhaust manifold gasket > Spacer Plate > RTV > Turbo Manifold.

Although I fantasize about having an UEL header, a custom manifold is not yet out of the question... cost is to be determined.
If I were to go this route i would imagine that I'd need to figure out / calculate optimized lengths that would allow for back pressure pulses to overlap on exit to and/or through the turbo. still researching...

also... ARP studs ?!?! I'll be planning the engine testing and preparatory upgrades this spring : injectors, fuel pump, & Studs??
again, still doing the research and a few times i have been pointed back to Nic Brunet's Ecotec and a couple times something to the effect mentioned here (full video link with Lisa Kubo)
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
been playing around with the design of an UEL header in my mind, still looking for local fabricators to ask for a quote.
looking at the firing order and presuming that it is roughly the same as subarus

Ecotec's firing order is 1-3-4-2... soo best guess is that I've four options to play with as a rough draft mentally....
1​
3​
4​
2​
Short​
Short​
Long​
Long​
Long​
Short​
Short​
Long​
Long​
Long​
Short​
Short​
Short​
Long​
Long​
Short​

 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Its not for turbo setups, and you can't buy it new anymore, but have you seen/heard about the JBP Vortex (aka "noodle") header? My understanding is it was some weird unequal-length monstrosity JBodyPerformance made for a little while. Lost power, but some said it sounded cooler? This is the best video I found. You can be the judge:
 
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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
yeah, the Goblin is quick enough as N/A, the UEL header at this point for the turbo build is simply for the LuLz.
as much as I channel "cheap bastard" energy, i always attempt the planning with three options....
cheapest budget,
most cost effective,
&
"that'd be nice to have"

additional notes on the build research at this point is that ZZP has nearly all of the options needed to get the job done, but not in a package (shown on their site ) that is simply a 2.2 Turbo install. I noticed a few options for turbo or M62 swaps... I'm guessing I'd have to get in touch with them and see if they have a suggested "a la carte" shopping list that they can quote me.

after an initial search I am finding that they are also my best bet for getting my hands on a template for the header flange... i.e. I could take their spacer and use it to cut my own stainless(maybe mcmaster-carr??) and eventually MIG together a noodle sort of header myself.
 
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