SwerveMonkey's Street Goblin #197 - 08 Donor

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Trying out posting from phone...
Found a new nuisance tonight... the shifter on the transmission bangs into the frame making a bang....

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This is either third or fourth gear, ???
Point being i have to see now if this part can be either swapped or trimmed and i believe my desperate butt will probably do the later.

Although, no rush as i am awaiting the fuel lock ring that matches the 2.4 fuel pump i have. big thanks to Ark :) for the fuel pump as my donor 2.2 PZEV did not have a compatible pump to pull for this build.

with the time to kill, I will see if I can adjust the engine position to accommodate before I make any mistakes :- (
 
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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Ok so posting from phone only sorta sucks... I'll go back to posting from the raspberry garage pi.

Was able to get the slave cylinder fittings undone from donor config

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I'll place the fitting (bottom one) into the tranny... is there any use for the other part or is that just fodder? Will have to find out.

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Also i need to back track to the fuel pump wiring and add a ground to the harness there... i left myself a black wire coming from the plug but never ran the ground wire.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
found a very informative youtube vid re the gear selector...

side note... found a vid on WELDING THE F23 DIFF!!! omg, seems like too much trouble, like why even do that, ha ha ha.

EDIT: will take the time to pull the gear selector and trim the counterweight on the selector arm...
 
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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Thought I'd post what spare bits I didn't use so far... if i missed something critical then I can at least point here to say i missed it.
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K12A fuel tank hardware
& K22H radiator mount hardware

View attachment 17374
K22E fuse box hardware
Simply decided a donor bolt would do didn't like the look of an elevated fuse box

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K22C brake line coated clamps
K22F fuel tank hardware

I am sure that k22f will see more action as i have yet to pit in the breather to the fuel cell

I'm tryimg to find a place the for the fuel filter different than what's prescribed
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There's some interference with the edge of the manual transmission case. More research needed.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Although Rttoys advice rings true to me, i wanted to give it a shot setting up the default nylon lines like in the videos... will definitely swap them to rubber after getting first start though.
20201006_221629.jpg

I ended up jerry-rigging a wood holder using a couple clamps and drilled through using a drill bit so that the hose was sandwiched and used fine grit sanding paper to get some bite.
20201006_211551.jpg20201006_211909.jpg

Used the heat gun to soften the nylon hose so i could press the quick connect into the it. Will have to check to see how to test this before actually running pressured fuel through it.

Other than that i still need to ground the fuel pump and am thinking of simply tapping that bolt under the fuse box for now.
20201006_221544.jpg

The only other thing left to source is a hose that will reach from the engine to the overflow tank
20201006_221647.jpg


From my sausage of a finger to the overflow tank.... I've heard legend of a perfect fitting hose but have yet to find the right one in my travels in the forum. LoL.

Just about ready for first start and placing the order for stage 2.
 

Attachments

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Attemtp at a first start has failed... i ran onto the same problems as a few other folks and found that the fuse box needed attention.

Initially found that I couldnt jump the fuel pump to source the gas, actually caused a spark with the jump wire i used... idk if that has ruined anything... was using the same spots they did in the video and got no response from the pump. Hope i didn't screw up the wiring.
16025429515298393841900614668587.jpg
Afterward i noticed that the cluster had a car/lock icon lit up and thought that the antitheft somehow may have hampered this start attempt. Seeing a couple other people fixed this with securing the fuse box i figured i would double check it.

The fuse box seemed to be loose on some plugs and what felt like tuning the bolts on the top was a solution. Later on i tugged a bit to check the slack and was able to have a stable gauge cluster.

Have to continue finding more first start troubleshooting tips and hints from other build logs.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Did the theft light stay lit?
Did not stay lit surprisingly... disconnected the negative terminal and
Fiddling with the fuse box screws, it disappeared after reattaching the negative terminal.

But now i have an "Eng Pwr Reduced" message. Which i guess i need a code reader to reset, thankfully already ordered one.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Crazy enough i jiggled all the cords and heard a few relays clicking about... narowed it down to the same one that the fuel pump is tied to... will have to check out the fuse box thoroughly at some point if the connections are just not making it...

First start still did not go smoothly. What seemed like a single cylinder firing then dying... maybe the other plugs are not sitting properly either...
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Make sure the screws in the fuse box are COMPLETELY tight. As in, you cannot turn them by hand any more. Don't use an impact for this.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Make sure the screws in the fuse box are COMPLETELY tight. As in, you cannot turn them by hand any more. Don't use an impact for this.
Right-O! This did help but found other gremlins in the process... now the butterfly doesn't respond?!?

upon further fiddling i found that even though the fuse box bolts are tight now, the cables being jostled will activate relays...? More specifically the gray square plug's cable bundle.

I have a feeling that i'll need to have a close inspection of the plug & fuse box and check that it is not corroded or anything under the plastic. I'm inclined to draft a diagram of where the ground are on my build for sheer sake of sanity later on when the accessories come into play.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
After fiddling a bunch with wire bundle positioning, I isolated at least one problem. The grey square plug in the fuse box had weak connections due to un-sprung contacts. Explaining why relays were clicking when the harness bundle moved or the fuse box position jostled.
20201015_200308.jpg
I pulled each contact out of the plug, one by one, and pushed the contacts to make them conducive to a good connection.
20201015_200308.jpg

Afterward I checked the ground contacts as Lonny mentioned.
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Grounding point in the tunnel where i had to extend it
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Grounding contact in the engine harness adjacent to coil packs
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Ground on the engine (front) near the starter
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Grounding point under the fuse box, has the fuse box ground + the fuel pump ground wire

I cannot think of any other ground locations i might have missed...

But at this point I think what may be holding up the first start is a flooded engine... I may have pumped too much gas into the cylinder maybe? I did have a couple times where I get a bit of back fire... from the throttle butterfly valve!?!?

[Edited for typos and capitilization... my main trouble with posts from mobile phone]
 

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Ross

Goblin Guru
My goblin (#121) has a 3 grounding spots: on the gas & brake pedal box, the side of the battery tray, as well as the same one under the fuse box.
DF eliminated the tunnel ground shortly after my frame, so I skipped using that one in my build. I also don't have the engine grounding spot that you mentioned, but technically my engine & transmission solid mounts do conduct ground for the engine.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
My goblin (#121) has a 3 grounding spots: on the gas & brake pedal box, the side of the battery tray, as well as the same one under the fuse box.
DF eliminated the tunnel ground shortly after my frame, so I skipped using that one in my build. I also don't have the engine grounding spot that you mentioned, but technically my engine & transmission solid mounts do conduct ground for the engine.
I forgot about the pedal box ground!! Thank You!
I'll check that next along with the spark plugs.

Adding mp4 of latest attempt
... or not

I did not mention the battery box ground as I assumed that testing though the negative terminal lug ( not the battery terminal ) meant that connection was solid. still though not sure what else could be the issue.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Have you pulled the codes from the OBD 2 port?
Did you get a chance to run the engine before removing it?
Still getting the "Eng Pwr Reduced" message?
To see if you have flooded an engine, pull a spark plug, and see if it is covered in gas. I use a propane torch to burn off the oil & gas from a spark plug, plus it pre-heats it, allowing easier starting.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
was able to drive the car around before tear-down, engine seemed to run fine then.
I did get an elm327 recently and pulled the codes, almost all of them were EVAP related. understandable, since i tore that system halfway off the engine.

on the plus side, no longer getting the "Eng Pwr Reduced" message since correcting the fuse plug connectors.
one electrical gremlin eliminated for now, ha ha.

I have to continue my archeaological dig to find my spark plug sockets and even then, I'm not sure if its 5/8 for the cobalt.

I'll have to give that trick a try with the torch & spark plug.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I hadn't thought about pulling every pin out of a connector, and tightening it.
So you have given me an idea to potentially fix my intermittent gauge cluster issue.
Thanks!
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Another attempt to start it up foiled.
I double checked the pins in the fuse box related to the P0230 code for the fuel relay and even reseated connectors on both the fuse box & the bcm under the kick plate.

The cranking sounded a bit more promising until i got yet another intake "backfire" with a puff of smoke shoting out the butterfly valve.

Will continue to research symtpoms and hopefully have more info soon on why it is not starting.

Below are the codes that i pulled with an elm327 reader.




Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Chevrolet
VIN: 1G1AK18F787188055

============1==============
P0452
Raw code: 0452
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) pressure sensor - low input
============2==============
P0449
Raw code: 0449
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) system, vent valve - circuit malfunction
============3==============
P0443
Raw code: 0443
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve - circuit malfunction
Chevrolet: Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve - circuit malfunction
============4==============
P0230
Raw code: 0230
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Fuel pump relay - circuit malfunction
============5==============
P0452
Raw code: 0452
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) pressure sensor - low input
============6==============
P0449
Raw code: 0449
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) system, vent valve - circuit malfunction
============7==============
P0443
Raw code: 0443
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve - circuit malfunction
Chevrolet: Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve - circuit malfunction
============8==============
P0230
Raw code: 0230
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Fuel pump relay - circuit malfunction
 
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