SwerveMonkey's Street Goblin #197 - 08 Donor

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
on to stage two!!
Received the Stage 2 package & organized all the parts the same as stage one, all boxes checked up
NRG short hub & quick release are also in, need to source a wheel and still have decide on size and depth
this post is a WIP table of contents for sources on assembly instructions.
 
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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
19634
19635


Tried to prep the brake reservoir relocation but fear i might have cross threaded the bracket and nipple... will have to double check if this is normal to have some shavings when threading this... I'm afraid iay jave uggah'd when i should have duggah'd
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Do you have access to a tap & die set? Looking for an excuse to buy one?
It looks pretty straight, but even if it is cross threaded, put some thread sealant paste in, and it should seal up and work.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
View attachment 19634View attachment 19635

Tried to prep the brake reservoir relocation but fear i might have cross threaded the bracket and nipple... will have to double check if this is normal to have some shavings when threading this... I'm afraid iay jave uggah'd when i should have duggah'd
It seemed I had done the same also. Alot of us have gone with the AN lines later because of drips on the floor at the reservoir.Lines and fittings
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
While trying to do a little here and there, I put together the steering column
19772

Am a little concerned that i had a few spare screws left over...
19774



In place on frame
19773
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
There should be three of the really short screws and they go into the face of the aluminum bearing hub to secure the bearing.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
... three of the really short screws/ /go into the face...
D'oh! ok... so i used two of the stubby screws to hold the turn signal... which in hindsight makes sense being that there were two of those left over
I'll swap those screws out

after that I'll have three stubby & three larger screws
I've an NRG short hub and quick disconnect as well, so I don't think I need the wheel HUB... pics incoming

Edit:
Swapped the screws around and now is much better
19775


Put the short hub and quick disconnect on at the same time...


Edit for add pic
20210105_111303.jpg
20210104_160244.jpg
 

Attachments

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Goblin Graber

Well-Known Member
Looks good now. With the NRG quick release and one of their flat non dished wheels mine felt super close. Someone suggested to me that I cut the tube. I cut it down from 3” to 1” to compensate for the QR and it’s great. Keep that in mind if the wheel you get feels too close.
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
Looks good now. With the NRG quick release and one of their flat non dished wheels mine felt super close. Someone suggested to me that I cut the tube. I cut it down from 3” to 1” to compensate for the QR and it’s great. Keep that in mind if the wheel you get feels too close.
That really all depends on where your seat ends up. I have an NRG quick release with a non dished wheel and it just happened to sit the perfect distance from me once I spaced the column down.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
The Front brakes are all installed, sans brake pads, and are torqued to spec.
I need to follow Ross's methodology and mark off ft-lbs values near specific bolts, seems to make it very useful to have them sort of on-hand.
Driver Side Front -
Passenger Side Front -

Was able to get the rear suspension in place, still have to torque everything down once I have confidence the setup is to spec based on what i find here in the forums.

Passenger side -
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Had some help from a friend to get some progress going on the rear brakes and the shifter installation.
although I do have some unanswered questions I am shuffling through the forums to find answers to.

installed the new M12 1.75 x 60 bolts with washers for the knuckle to bracket connection

Shifter installed, but not adjusted yet... garage workspace has been freezing lately, -40F :eek:

I didn't have any IDEA what these parts were for... until i installed the shifter cable bracket on engine
I'll probably go back & put these in, then document how I put them in so Lonny can confirm, ha ha
It is very humbling, and exciting to piece the puzzle together and get help from you all :-D
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Trying to figure out how to install the parking brake cables, I have the donor cables along with the guide tubing

has there been a good way mentioned in the forums on how to remove the springs from the donor cables???

one of them I simply took an angle grinder to the spring carefully freeing the cable one spring rotation to the next
I honestly plan to replace the cables with a universal substitute prior to registration.

another reason to replace them as well, maybe... i found a crack/kink in the cable tubing near the caliper end...
this greatly concerns me and I would not trust these for actual use, for now though they serve the purpose of educational tools , ha ha
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
They are for strengthening the plastic clamps that go on the shifter.
I feel silly now.... are there any pics I can emulate??
my assumption would be the spacers would be sandwiched under the plastic connection in the shifter ???

what about the washers?
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I don't personally have any to share, as mine are not properly installed right either. I didn't know what they were for, either. I came across a post on here and had an epiphany, lol! I'm sure someone can show you a pic.
 

SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Thank You Lonny!!
will fix and report back on this post ...... brb

One day later... got the hardware in place as the video describes... but i still have two left over 1/4 washers that idk what to do with... the shifter assembly has six i xan account for... 2 for each shift armlink, 2 for the counter pivot in front... and I'm not sure
19952
where the last two go.
 
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Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
Trying to figure out how to install the parking brake cables, I have the donor cables along with the guide tubing

has there been a good way mentioned in the forums on how to remove the springs from the donor cables???

one of them I simply took an angle grinder to the spring carefully freeing the cable one spring rotation to the next
I honestly plan to replace the cables with a universal substitute prior to registration.

another reason to replace them as well, maybe... i found a crack/kink in the cable tubing near the caliper end...
this greatly concerns me and I would not trust these for actual use, for now though they serve the purpose of educational tools , ha ha
15 dollars each at rock auto I replaced both of mine. Emergency Brake Cables
 
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