Theeulogy's extended City frame - 06 SS/SC in WV

[Lonny]

I agree

 

[theeulogy]

Getting ready to do the final steps in video 14, have these 4 connectors that I had labeled "behind drivers dash".

 

[Lonny]

Are those your clutch and brake wires?

 

[theeulogy]

Are those your clutch and brake wires?

I bet they are, I will see when I get home in the morning. These are the last thing and then I can tape up my harness. The harness has been a BIG job, paying to have it done would have been a bargain.

 

[theeulogy]

Ok, getting ready to tape up my harness, I somehow cut the red/white power wire to the OBD2 port. Where did it come from so I can add it back in?

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

LOL, I did the same thing. I think I have it on my thread. Look at post 99 from my thread..

 

[theeulogy]

I have encountered a problem while installing the clutch pedal. Part of the pedal will not clear the steering shaft.

 

[JSATX]

I have encountered a problem while installing the clutch pedal. Part of the pedal will not clear the steering shaft.

Cut that extension piece off? Also bend the pedal mounting bracket away from the steering shaft. Mine rubbed pretty bad at first but you can get a good amount of clearance just by bending the mount away towards drivers side of frame

 

[theeulogy]

The piece is the contact font the clutch pressed switch, I can trim about half of it off. I just wondered if anyone else had run in to this and what they did before I changed anything permanently.

 

[theeulogy]

Well I got the front suspension on. The rod end mounts have been updated, and took me a few minutes to figure out.

Also worth mentioning, I had to chase the 3/4 and 1/2 inch holes for the rod ends. I was unable to get any of the rod ends in without doing that. So now I own a tap and die set

Also, does anyone know what size the bolts are on the back of the Moog 4 bolt hubs? I remember now that I never took the hubs off the rear of my donor, so I will send my wife out for some while I am at work tomorrow.

 

[Briann1177]

Glad you brought this up. I seem to have lost my nuts too. I measured my studs with calipers and it looks like they are M10x1.5.

 

[ctuinstra]

Well I got the front suspension on. The rod end mounts have been updated, and took me a few minutes to figure out.

Also worth mentioning, I had to chase the 3/4 and 1/2 inch holes for the rod ends. I was unable to get any of the rod ends in without doing that. So now I own a tap and die set.

I had troubles finding a 3/4" tap for the spindle heim joint that wouldn't break the bank. So using a small die grinder, I cut flutes into one of the heim joint threads about 1/2" up the end of the threads and used it as a makeshift tap. It did a great job of cleaning out the threads and didn't bugger up the thread on the heim at all.

It's good to have a tap and die set. Mark my words, now that you have it, you will find yourself using it a lot. If nothing else I use it to verify bolt/nut sizes along with the thread counting tool it came with.

 

[theeulogy]

Got a bunch of stuff done the last couple days, I was able to get the rear suspension on and the car on the ground. A little tip for any other SS folks, do not cut the springs. Mine are a bit short now, so I ordered the Raceland coilovers.

Tomorrow I have to take a torch to the passenger front tie rod end, my donor must have been way out of alignment. My tires are toed in so much that it scrubs one of the front tires.

For the time being I also painted the calipers blue, later on I will have them powder coated.

 

[ctuinstra]

Got a bunch of stuff done the last couple days, I was able to get the rear suspension on and the car on the ground. A little tip for any other SS folks, do not cut the springs. Mine are a bit short now, so I ordered the Raceland coilovers.

Tomorrow I have to take a torch to the passenger front tie rod end, my donor must have been way out of alignment. My tires are toed in so much that it scrubs one of the front tires.

Make sure you are using the rod ends that come with the kit! They have a shorter threaded end on them so they will screw on further allowing you to tow them out more. We made the same mistake and had our threaded all the way in. The OEMs go on the rear and the kit ends go on the front. There is a good picture of them somewhere on the forum.

 

[ctuinstra]

Not sure why you are sitting too low or think the springs are too short. I have an SS and I cut one coil out of them and it seems to be right.

 

[Briann1177]

While we're on this topic, can someone count the number of visible threads to the edge of the locking nut on the front ends?

I know each build is different and I still need to get an alignment, but I'd like to be in the ballpark if possible.

 

[ctuinstra]

While we're on this topic, can someone count the number of visible threads to the edge of the locking nut on the front ends?

I know each build is different and I still need to get an alignment, but I'd like to be in the ballpark if possible.

I have 19 on the driver side and 23 on the passenger. It's going to be off a bit to clock the steering wheel. So you could average that and set both to it.

 

[Briann1177]

Speaking of clocking the steering wheel, what's the proper way of centering the steering rack? I seem to have about 2-3/4 turns to go through the full range. To get it "centered" I started at one extreme end and turned it 1-almost a half turn back the other direction. I then had to tweak it a bit to get my steering wheel oriented right. It's probably off a few degrees so I'm sure I have have a tiny bit of more range in one direction versus the other.

Is this something the alignment shop can do or is "eyeballing" good enough?

 

[ctuinstra]

Speaking of clocking the steering wheel, what's the proper way of centering the steering rack? I seem to have about 2-3/4 turns to go through the full range. To get it "centered" I started at one extreme end and turned it 1-almost a half turn back the other direction. I then had to tweak it a bit to get my steering wheel oriented right. It's probably off a few degrees so I'm sure I have have a tiny bit of more range in one direction versus the other.

Is this something the alignment shop can do or is "eyeballing" good enough?

Center the rack as much as possible. Then mount the steering wheel hub with the wheel in the center position you want. Then when you have it aligned, they will lock the steering wheel straight and align the wheels to center.

The rack has more movement left and right then what you need. As long as it's not way off center, it will still move the wheels to their stop.

 

[KJP]

You are cooking right along looking good.
Let me know how the racelands are I was debating ordering some