Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement

[Ross]

Hmm, I probably should pull the cover back off to check it out, probably should because of the seal anyways. Might have to do that soon, the last thing I want is to have it jump timing... I have a large flat tip screwdriver that has the reach but was concerned about damaging the chain, covering the end with tape sounds like a good plan. The longest part of the initial installation was resetting the tensioner after trying to install it the first time.

I did rotate the crank with the valve cover off, I put it in 1st gear and rolled the car by hand in the garage but only while I had the zip ties still in place, so only an inch of sprocket rotation. That didn't change the amount of slack that was on the front side off the intake sprocket. I call it slack but I couldn't cause it to skip teeth on the sprocket, I did test that much.

The screwdriver method is how I broke mine. Used a wooden paint stick on my second tensioner.

 

[Ark :D]

I'm happy to find out I'm not the only one who set my tensioner multiple times.

 

[MisterDave]

I am planning on doing this tensioner too. Everything says to release the tensioner after install, but I did see a video that suggested releasing the tensioner before installing... It is a ZZP video on a lsj timing chain, but check it out at 4:25.

 

[baustin]

When I do pull the valve cover again and check the tension on the chain, if there's no slack on the chain points I can reach from the top side then is there any reason to go further? If I do feel slack on the front side again then I figure I'd need to try and activate the tensioner but if there's no slack then just cover it back up and move on.

 

[baustin]

Maybe these images will show the slack I have right now. These are on the front side of the engine.

Screw driver tip not pressing on the chain:

Screw driver pressing, not really hard:

Looks like a lot but there's no way for me to skip a tooth on the sprocket with the amount that's there.

Going to try to get the tensioner to release correctly now in case it's not.

 

[baustin]

I didn't feel like I was able to get the tensioner to activate. I did a couple cold engine starts and definitely felt like I heard the chain rattle for the first 1-2 seconds. So I opened the valve cover back up and tried again. When I removed the tensioner this time, I absolutely heard it activate as I removed it from the engine block, so it never did extend correctly that time.

This time I followed the ZZP recommended install method. Youtube link for ZZP video 4:30 in the video they talk about the install of the tensioner.

I did have to shove to get the threads started due to the activated length. Once installed I checked the slack on the chain to compare to the last image I uploaded, easily 2/3 of that slack was gone without rolling the engine at all. First startup was nice and quiet too, that chain rattle for the first 1-2 seconds is gone now.

Still used the zip tie method to hold the chain to the sprockets to maintain the timing setup. But I think it was way more straight forward to insert the tensioner already activated. Since the version I received can't just fall apart (used to be 2 separate parts sleeved together, new version is held together with a C-clip), I don't see why it would should only be activated after installation. Earlier versions sure, but not the current style I got.

 

[KSLunsfo]

Since the version I received can't just fall apart (used to be 2 separate parts sleeved together, new version is held together with a C-clip), I don't see why it would should only be activated after installation. Earlier versions sure, but not the current style I got.

Good point, perhaps the installation method didn't quite get updated along with the tensioner. I did however install mine the old way and was able to set it after installation, but it did take a few different attempts.

 

[CaptFrank2001]

I imagine you have this all resolved by now but here is some more info. My donor engine has 87K so I decided to replace all the chains, gears pulley's etc... The replacement was pretty straight forward & Cloyes has some really good video's on the subject. I did have an issue with the timing chain tensioner. I thought I followed the video's but after I buttoned it all up I did not have that warm fuzzy feeling. So I decided to pull the valve cover & the tensioner and do that part again. When I pulled the tensioner it WAS activated so it was all for nothing. Now I had to take apart the tensioner and reset it to the un-activated state. Not too hard to do and it is covered in the Cloyes video. Then I found a place on line that showed how to look for slack in the chain before and after activation of the tensioner.

I did NOT use his method to activate the tensioner (hitting with a hammer) I just used the method Cloyes show's by pushing with a long screwdriver. You can hear it snap when it activates. Then I verified that the chain does not slide back and forth as shown in the video and buttoned it up. Good luck !

 

[JeffsGoblin]

I used the ZZP method and installed the tensioner already set. I had to push in the guide from the top. Both methods work, it is just personal preference.