Towerdog's Indiana Street Goblin Build (#250) 07 SS/SC Donor

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Congrats. I have to tell you. You were on of my motivations to keep building as fast as I did. When I saw we were starting at about the same time in my mind it became a race to the finish. I did beat you there by 2 weeks but looking at your pictures I think I should have slowed down a bit and did some more prep work on the engine clean up.
Good to hear... But this was my work schedule for just April, All those are out of town. The last week put me in Dallas so I got to go hang out at DF and meet Ross. But I don't feel too bad about the time. Still have to fix the slight leak on the intercooler line and replace the pump and tune the suspension up a bit.

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Towerdog

Goblin Guru
I didnt order a personalized plate but it looks like I got one..... Stinking A$* Quick I guess Im going to have to work on the 504 part... HP maybe,, LOL

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Added a volt meter, a couple USB ports and a cig lighter to charge my phone and power my GPS on trips.

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Also added some cheap Kirkey roll bar pads. I was starting to wear off the powder coat sliding in and out. Plus I rest my leg on that bar and it was getting a little tender.

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Towerdog

Goblin Guru
So I had cut a notch in my windshield to allow air to pass through, But it wasnt enough I still felt like I was in an oven while driving. Today I cut 3.5" off the top, might have been an inch too much because I get wind buffeting in my face,,, Not near as violent as w/o a windshield but enough that you have to were glasses to be able to see. Most of the longer trips I will most likely wear a helmet and it should be perfect having the extra air to keep things cool. I think I will order or make a new one and cut one inch at a time until I find a good balance.


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SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
So I had cut a notch in my windshield to allow air to pass through, But it wasnt enough I still felt like I was in an oven while driving. Today I cut 3.5" off the top, might have been an inch too much because I get wind buffeting in my face,,, Not near as violent as w/o a windshield but enough that you have to were glasses to be able to see. Most of the longer trips I will most likely wear a helmet and it should be perfect having the extra air to keep things cool. I think I will order or make a new one and cut one inch at a time until I find a good balance.


View attachment 24920
Is that the stand or tall windshiel?
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
I absolutely do not understand this stupid clutch! I re bled it from the clutch pipe after the whole vacuum mess from the reservoir. Has been fine for a week, Drive it seven miles down the road, go to down shift,,, Nothing. I can pump the living daylights out of the pedal enough to get it home but what the crap!
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Everything else being as simple as it is, I would start looking at the master cylinder being a problem.
Sounds logical but everything in that system is new. Master, elbow, clutch pipe, and slave. Im thinking part of the problem could be the fact that I didn't fill the slave w fluid prior to bleeding the system.
 

2.0 Turbo

Active Member
Sorry was unable to post the link.. possibly query the video on YouTube. I was planning to try that technique when I get to that stage. Aww, an it won’t be too long from now.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
When you bleed the clutch system someone should be holding the clutch pedal down each time you open the bleeder screw.

When you press the clutch pedal it will force air and fluid into the slave cylinder and when you open the bleeder screw the slave cylinder will push the air out first and then brake fluid.

You will have to manually pull the clutch pedal back each time.

Repeat this step until no air bubbles come out.

Make sure you keep the reservoir very full the whole time. The brake fluid does not enter the clutch supply cavity in the reservoir until the level is very high and the cavity is very small so it empties quickly. If it gets too low it will pull air and you will need to start all over.
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
When you bleed the clutch system someone should be holding the clutch pedal down each time you open the bleeder screw.

When you press the clutch pedal it will force air and fluid into the slave cylinder and when you open the bleeder screw the slave cylinder will push the air out first and then brake fluid.

You will have to manually pull the clutch pedal back each time.

Repeat this step until no air bubbles come out.

Make sure you keep the reservoir very full the whole time. The brake fluid does not enter the clutch supply cavity in the reservoir until the level is very high and the cavity is very small so it empties quickly. If it gets too low it will pull air and you will need to start all over.
Thanks. That may explain a few things.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Please do post if you get the clutch issue sorting out, I think I'm in about the same boat as you.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Post 169. My line was hitting the trans mount causing the line to be cocked enough to work when installed, but would wiggle loose and lose pressure when driving. I ground down the trans mount area to make the line relaxed.

the “umbrella“ seal at the 90* elbow has to be on the slave side when installing the elbow, too.

 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Post 169. My line was hitting the trans mount causing the line to be cocked enough to work when installed, but would wiggle loose and lose pressure when driving. I ground down the trans mount area to make the line relaxed.

the “umbrella“ seal at the 90* elbow has to be on the slave side when installing the elbow, too.

Mine was not hitting the trans mount..
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Why I didn't use this all the times I've messed with the clutch I will never know.

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Bleeding the clutch the conventional way makes sense if you think about it (Thanks Lonny). When you push in the pedal you extend the slave, When you release the slave contracts and pushes any air up to the bleeder. Vacuum works on brakes because the bleeder is at the end of the line were these are in the middle.
It feels ok,,, The throw is still all at the bottom, Don't know if that is due to the fact it is aftermarket and the slave needs shimmed.

While under there I notice that it looks like the trans is seeping from between the halves. Have to keep an eye on the gear oil.

Changing the intercooler pump was much more of a challenge than I expected. It is quite difficult to manipulate a spring clamp with one hand and very limited space?
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Well It looks like I get about 100 miles to the bleeding! Went two days w/o as much as a pin drop of fluid on the floor and I put about 65 miles on it yesterday. Put another 25 mi on it running to lunch this afternoon. Go to take it for a spin tonight silver dollar size puddle of Im not sure what, and 5 miles into the trip the clutch fades out!

Im now what has to be done but man it sucks. Prime driving season and I need to drop the engine and pop the trans off. Im guessing the slave it a total POS and has to be intermittently sucking air and leaking. And no matter how well I bleed it my travel is only about an inch.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Well It looks like I get about 100 miles to the bleeding! Went two days w/o as much as a pin drop of fluid on the floor and I put about 65 miles on it yesterday. Put another 25 mi on it running to lunch this afternoon. Go to take it for a spin tonight silver dollar size puddle of Im not sure what, and 5 miles into the trip the clutch fades out!

Im now what has to be done but man it sucks. Prime driving season and I need to drop the engine and pop the trans off. Im guessing the slave it a total POS and has to be intermittently sucking air and leaking. And no matter how well I bleed it my travel is only about an inch.
If it is the slave cylinder it may need to be shimmed to prevent any chance of over extension and fluid loss (while sucking in some air). Getting that distance correct between the slave cylinder and clutch plate arms/levers is a challenge if any non-stock part is used - or wear on the parts.
 
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