Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)

Traé

Well-Known Member
The pump's only rated for 0.3bar (just over 4psi) and the coolant doesn't get hot enough to require pressure to remain a liquid like a radiator system. Intake manifold boost is a higher pressure and would be trying to make its way into the coolant, but typically if the fluid system isn't sealed well enough that the intake is pressurizing it, it's also leaking coolant into the intake either when the manifold's in vacuum (sucking) or slowly while sitting (slow leaking).

Coolant into the intake is a bigger concern than leaking outside of the system, so if you can verify with a small bit of pressure that the laminova cores aren't leaking into the intake (verify with supercharger off), that's the primary focus. Exterior drips can be followed up on later.
Thank you, I will remove the supercharger again and retest.
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
So good news, I don’t believe the laminova cores are leaking. I looped the system back into itself and tested just the manifold. It has been holding pressure for the past 10-15 mins.

Now onto figuring out what’s actually leaking.
47490
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
at some point, you add coolant and then pressurize. The leak will usually show up pretty quick. At least at engine coolant pressures.

And you can do it with just water, and if no leaks, just drain out enough water to allow the proper amount of antifreeze.
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
at some point, you add coolant and then pressurize. The leak will usually show up pretty quick. At least at engine coolant pressures.

And you can do it with just water, and if no leaks, just drain out enough water to allow the proper amount of antifreeze.
Does the HX pump run 24/7? Or did you mean pressurize it with air once full? I’ll probably do water, that’s a good call.

We hard wired in the fan to run all the time not the pump, right?
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I think the SC only runs when the ignition is in run, or maybe only when the engine is actually running, if wired like oem. But I'm turbo so don't know for sure.

I use one of these to test coolant systems and find leaks.
Radiator Pressure Test Kit (harborfreight.com)
But you would likely have to adapt something to work on this SC system anyway. So can be done with a bicycle pump. A lot easier to find leaks when everything is quiet, cool, not moving and don't have to feel rushed. Of course, antifreeze is easier to see than water.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
And you will probably not make much pressure with just the pump running. What pressure it does make will be highest right after the pump and will drop all of the way through the system until it reaches its lowest pressure at the suction side of the pump.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
On a stock wiring LSJ, the intercooler pump will only run with the engine running, or if commanded in HP Tuners VCM Scanner. I think you can set a delay on and a minimum ambient temp in the tune as well.

How do you know you're leaking? If I fill my filler neck all the way up, it always ends up half full. I thought I had leaks to chase until I eventually realized that's just where it likes to sit, it's rock solid now. I would think at a certain amount of leaking you could find puddles.
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
On a stock wiring LSJ, the intercooler pump will only run with the engine running, or if commanded in HP Tuners VCM Scanner. I think you can set a delay on and a minimum ambient temp in the tune as well.

How do you know you're leaking? If I fill my filler neck all the way up, it always ends up half full. I thought I had leaks to chase until I eventually realized that's just where it likes to sit, it's rock solid now. I would think at a certain amount of leaking you could find puddles.
I pulled the system into a vacuum to fill and couldn’t hold it. I haven’t had liquid in it yet but was hoping to find the leaks with air first.

I could hear leaks at the pex but fixed those, that’s what turned me to the laminova cores but those are fine after I isolated the manifold and was able to hold vacuum. When i test the full system it still has a slow leak. I’m going to fill it with water and try to pressurize it to find out where.
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
Traé, are you using the same pex lines through the shifter tunnel that the turbo cars use for the heat exchanger? I don't know, are the kits the same?

Is this why some have ditched the pex entirely and just run heater hose?
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
Traé, are you using the same pex lines through the shifter tunnel that the turbo cars use for the heat exchanger? I don't know, are the kits the same?

Is this why some have ditched the pex entirely and just run heater hose?
Yep, that’s what came with the kit, I did read that some have ditched them entirely and went with hose all the way through. Mine seem to be a bit shorter than the ones shown in the helpful pictures post from DF.
47496
47497

They are only about an inch longer than the tunnel and made it tough to get a clamp on but surprisingly aren’t leaking from what I can see.

If I run into issues I will definitely be replacing them with hose all the way through.
 
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Traé

Well-Known Member
I filled the system with water and pressurized it. The only spots leaking are the plastic 90s on the HX up front.
47495


I removed them and reapplied teflon tape as well as permatex blue gasket sealant (Thank you, @Dale E for the recommendation)

Let’s see if this puppy holds!
47494
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
i need to redo my 90 degree fittings. Mine aren't screwed in nearly as far as yours. Those things were a pain to get started
I will say they went in a LOT easier the 2nd time. I would recommend the tape and permatex. So far it’s been holding vacuum for 10 mins.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I was thinking about this, a “smoke machine” like used on a evap system would work well here finding leaks too.
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
Still waiting on the brake kit from DF but have been finishing up covering the interior of the floor pans and fire wall. I have rivnuts shipping to me this week that will allow me to get the tunnel cover and fire wall buttoned up so I can start finishing the interior.

After lots of searching and learning about tires I think I have a choice.
I’m currently going with this setup;
47561
47562


I’ve read some good things about these tires on the forum and they are reasonably priced for my needs of backroad cruising.
 

Mahkoi

Well-Known Member
Still waiting on the brake kit from DF but have been finishing up covering the interior of the floor pans and fire wall. I have rivnuts shipping to me this week that will allow me to get the tunnel cover and fire wall buttoned up so I can start finishing the interior.

After lots of searching and learning about tires I think I have a choice.
I’m currently going with this setup;
View attachment 47561View attachment 47562

I’ve read some good things about these tires on the forum and they are reasonably priced for my needs of backroad cruising.
Those are good looking wheels. I have those tires in 275/35-18 and I like them. I haven't tracked them or done autocross. Just cruising with bursts of super aggressive driving.
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
Front brake kit has arrived, calipers are already torn down with their first coat of paint.
47963


this kit also came with 3d printed clamps for the brake lines to snap into. It does require you to drill a small hole and fasten with a rivet in the control arm so I’m not sure at the moment if they will be used, but probably overthinking.
47964


What’s your opinion on drilling into the control arms?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Those 3D printed brake line clips lasted about 2 or 3 years, then broke. Sometimes a zip tie is better. No hole to drill.
PS, put the brake line inside the A arm, to protect it from damage, and streamline the arms in the wind. Just my OCD 2 cents.
 
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