Track Day Monster 2009 SS/TC Track Frame
- Thread starter dperkins
- Start date
dperkins
Well-Known Member
Success! (Sort of). I have located the problem. After I fixed pin B10 being loose I tried again, but it didn't work. I looked at the crank relay again to see what's wrong with it, and when I tried to start it, the relay only got 2.9v. I don't think that is enough, but I could short pin 30 and pin 87 and now it worked for some reason.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
Here’s an even better article on it:
http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comunidad/fluke-news-plus/articlecategories/electrical/diagnosevoltdrop
http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comunidad/fluke-news-plus/articlecategories/electrical/diagnosevoltdrop
Start on one end of your goblin and post pics of all of your grounds and of your wiring connections.
All of your symptoms sound ground related.
Have you heard your fuel pump running at any point when you first turn on the ignition? It with not run everytime you turn on the ignition, usually after it has been off for a few minutes.
All of your symptoms sound ground related.
Have you heard your fuel pump running at any point when you first turn on the ignition? It with not run everytime you turn on the ignition, usually after it has been off for a few minutes.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Ditto with what Lonny said. It also sounds like a comm issue if your throttle butterfly isn't moving. Have you looked at the tan twisted wires?
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
The tan is the brown and brown/blk twisted wires. Otherwise known as tan and tan/blk. They are easy to identify as they are the only set of that color that is twisted the entire way. They need to start at the power steering box, and then go to the BCM and the to the ECM. Those data wires are very important and need to be interconnected to all three.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Congrats. Don't forget to reinstall your mandible. It looks like it may have fallen on the floor.
On a side note, I don't think you're supposed to leave your CV axles dangling like that. Pretty sure you can damage the seals that way and cause a leak.
On a side note, I don't think you're supposed to leave your CV axles dangling like that. Pretty sure you can damage the seals that way and cause a leak.
dperkins
Well-Known Member
Got the rear suspension on today. Finishing up the powdercoating of the front control arms and soon the front suspension will be on as well, and I can get this thing rolling 
.
Is this configuration correct for the suspension? I read something on a thread about how there shouldn't be anything sticking up from the top mount.
. Is this configuration correct for the suspension? I read something on a thread about how there shouldn't be anything sticking up from the top mount.
dperkins
Well-Known Member
Small problem. The passenger side CV axle is not compressing enough to attach the hub to the knuckle. The inner joint seems to be the problem. The driver side inner joint is about .25 inches (3.75 vs 4 in) more compressed than the passenger side, and overall the pass axle is also that much longer.
(Sorry I know the pictures suck but I don't have 3 hands haha)
(Sorry I know the pictures suck but I don't have 3 hands haha)
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Is that the factory axle?
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
How do you move the engine and transmission .200" over?
George
Goblin Guru
Made three spacers 1" diameter 0.200" thick to fit on the three bolts that hold the engine mount to the cylinder head(the rear one had to be trimmed on one side to fit. on the left just elongated mount bolt holes in frame.
Then made spacer for the rear motor mount on the front motor mount still had the one that was first sent just removed the spacers that were made to make it fit when assembled
Brad
Then made spacer for the rear motor mount on the front motor mount still had the one that was first sent just removed the spacers that were made to make it fit when assembled
Brad