Travis B's Track goblin #479 - 08 SS

WA08TC

Active Member
Just planning on having a fun get around town car, not looking to push crazy numbers. I've got the opels, fuel cam and valve springs to have some fun but not looking to push it too hard. Right now trying to research the intercooler piping and looking for the weld on maf and map pad. 3" in that section should suffice? Rest is going to be 2.5"
 

WA08TC

Active Member
It's a 3076. Nothing too crazy, inducer numbers on par with a 7163. Didn't want to have to upgrade in the future if I wanted more.
 
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WA08TC

Active Member
9/8

So I was able to take the day and re-loom the engine harness and I started plugging in connectors and I have some left overs just making sure I'm not missing anything. I had the harness re-work done as well.
Also I read that the 3 wire map connector goes in the manifold and the 4 map connector goes at the coldside just want to confirm. Take a look and let me know if I'm missing anything. Thanks as always everyone.
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Your first picture looks like the Cobalt radiator fans connectors. There is an A/C fan and a ECT(engine coolant temperature) fan on my LSJ, the ECT fan wires are used on the Goblin to run the DF supplied fan up front.

Your 2nd pic has a 3 wire connector, that looks like the A/C pressure sensor. It helps us if you can follow the unidentify connector to the nearest known connector, and tell us what those are. At least we know where you are in the car.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Wire colors on a connector are important to know also either with a picture or text. There are repeats of several connectors.
 

WA08TC

Active Member
The first picture is front of the motor all bunched together.
2 rad fans
AC pressure
Coldside map?
The second picture the black plug is the O2 sensor but the 4 prong white is unknown to me.
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
White connector is probably second o2 sensor but without wire colors I can’t confirm. Your remaining connector is the first is probably the turbo boost pressure sensor, aka low res boost sensor, aka first map sensor but again can’t confirm without wire colors.
 

WA08TC

Active Member
This is at the front under the kick plate. Also have a module that I don't know if I need to keep, as well as this connector on the steering shaft.
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Ark :D

Goblin Guru
1) Being so close to the BCM, that's got to be the connector for the TPMS module.

2) Airbag module, trash it.

3) I don't remember this one.

4) The long white one and square white one go to the turn signal switch. I think the smaller white one is either the boost gauge or the ambient light sensor, but I might be wrong on that one.
 

WA08TC

Active Member
Thanks fellas, trashed my overflow reservoir my mistake ordered a new one, then I can start her up. I have lights on the dash and fuel pump primes so we're good there as far as wiring. I do need to pickup a weld on maf pad and Bosch map sensor pad so I can hookup the charge pipes.
 

WA08TC

Active Member
10/15
Made some progress, mounted the intercooler which took a while since I did steel stock so it wouldn't sag but all I had was an electric drill. Started playing with the intercooler piping, almost there.
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WA08TC

Active Member
3/10
Was able to mount my catch cans for the intake manifold (drilled out and plugged pcv hole as well as the rear passenger back to the intake tube as close to the turbo as I can. The cans are vented BUT I put covers over the holes under the filters so the filter are just for show. Couldn't find sealed ones that had holes on either side to bar clamp to the frame. So had another bung welded by my buddy (free labor) so I can have a port for the TTR pcv to hook up to. They are backordered so I'll pick it up when they are in stock.

Got my 15x8 front and 15x10 Jegs Star wheels. The AR1's should be here by Tuesday. When I get an updated quote from Adam I'm going to get the rest of the kit. Should a fun couple months finishing everything off. Going to be dropping my intercooler piping off at the welder to put in crimps as well as welding on the flange for the Turbosmart race port bov.
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Question: the forwardmost catch can upper open port is being plumbed into the brass open port in the intake manifold? Are you planning to include a one-way check valve in this line? It is needed to keep boost pressure out of the catch can (that could be an unwanted situation) and from feeding back into the crankcase and pressurizing it too. Under vacuum the bypassed PCV will work without the check valve, but I believe you want it to work correctly under boost too.

Can't see the rearmost catch can hook up but this should be under constant vacuum from the turbo and pulling from crankcase. But, the small port in the center of the valve cover in the rear should be ported to the fresh air intake tube with a one-way check valve to allow air into this port, but not allowing it to flow back towards the intake tube.

This mirrors the stock vacuum setup and provides the best balance of vacuum for the crankcase without pulling too much that can affect some gaskets - actually pulling them inside the crankcase and create an unwanted air or liquid leak.
 

WA08TC

Active Member
So how the forward most can can will be set up: nipple inbetween runner 2 and 3 (blocked pcv) -> bottom port on CC -> top port on CC -> TTR pcv valve -> welded on nipple in pic( so CC doesn't see boost)
The rear catch can will be: back passenger port -> bottom port on CC -> top port on CC-> closest port to turbo on intake pipe( for boost vacuum source)
Middle fresh air port will be: port on intake pipe -> check valve -> middle port on back of valve cover. So my intake will have a port close to the turbo for rear CC vacuum and port in between that port and filter for fresh air to valve cover. Blow thru maf setup
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Sounds like you have it covered. Just wanted to be certain the boost pressure from the intake manifold was not feeding back into the catch can from the intake manifold. Would hate to see a problem with your engine if this was skipped.

I've seen a few 'ricer' kids using catch cans without a check valve/PCV in the plumbing and wondering why their cans keep coming apart (blowing the filter off or even splitting the cheap aluminum can).
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