TravMac's Extended Track Goblin (#253) - 2007 SS/SC Doner

TravMac

Well-Known Member
While I do understand all the view points, I feel as though there's a bit of putting the cart before the horse. In this case - I still stand by trying something new. I had a conversation with another car friend saying how much of a stir it may cause on the forum... I guess I thought it would be more positive to learn something new. Isn't tweaking the car to it's maximum capability half the fun?

From my perspective: I still believe this may prove quite effective in it's thermal management using a "better" pad and rotor combination (without creating something entirely custom and cost prohibitive). This is a fairly easy off-the-shelf conversion towards that goal, while also understanding the basic balance needs for creating an effective package. Now I'm investigating rear cost effective alternatives having learned what I did on the front end.

I have to be clear - I'm not going for a setup to use little pedal, or lock the fronts in order to stop, but to end up with better braking performance overall than the average provided setup. I think with a bit of tinkering and basic physics understanding, this has an interesting outlook that could benefit others too! And if not... I guess it will be learning for the future tinkerers as well!
 

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
No one is stopping you (haha pun) from doing what you want to do to your car.

The car has so much stopping power with the DF stock configuration. Truthfully, if I could find smaller rotors that would work I would run them, why unsprung rotating mass.
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
No one is stopping you (haha pun) from doing what you want to do to your car.

The car has so much stopping power with the DF stock configuration. Truthfully, if I could find smaller rotors that would work I would run them, why unsprung rotating mass.
Yes I would have to agree... 60-0 is super impressive. A proportioning valve is almost a must if you are going to be hard braking. Ive locked the fronts up once.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Nascar uses big brakes... just depends what you are wanting to do with your car. Small brakes are great for saving weight, but if you use your brakes a lot, then you can reach their thermal limit. I agree with Andrew, do what you want, and let us know how it works... that I what I did... let you know how my brakes worked for me. Now I just need to get on a Nascar circuit to do some real brake testing.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
How different are the supplied brakes different from the ones you installed? I believe the base model and 2.4L & SS/SC calipers have the same piston diameter so I would be inclined to believe they're the same caliper, or similar enough other than the mounting bracket. I'm pretty sure the supplied rotor and the SS/SC rotor are the same. Reference this thread: 10" brakes

I'm glad you appreciate the inevitable forum clucking over putting bigger brakes on the front, I sure do ;) @Tinkles was putting the SS/TC Brembos on their Goblin, but we haven't heard from them in a while. I felt the only legitimate concern there was being able to get enough heat into the brakes to bed them; otherwise, braking power can be modulated with a proportioning valve, regulating or deleting the power assist, changing the master cylinder, etc., but everyone's build is up to them in the end. Again, I'm glad that you're not only trying new things but also posting them for everyone to fuss over. Please do report back to fill us in!
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
A big front wing should run circles around a splitter at higher (or all) speeds, but it will all depend on what your end game is with the car. Mine is the look that I want and effectiveness up to 80 or even 100-120mph, which should be around the max speed on the various tracks we have around here (excluding cota). Just being able to run with freeway traffic without white knuckling it makes me a happy camper.
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
A big front wing should run circles around a splitter at higher (or all) speeds, but it will all depend on what your end game is with the car. Mine is the look that I want and effectiveness up to 80 or even 100-120mph, which should be around the max speed on the various tracks we have around here (excluding cota). Just being able to run with freeway traffic without white knuckling it makes me a happy camper.
Im with you on that! I think part of the winter to do list is to add a splitter to the front.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
What I wanted to say here is; by all means try out new stuff. That’s the only way we progress forward. These are not perfect and without all the extra ideas and research, many things would not be sorted it the way they are now, but there’s still plenty left for improvement.

On the brakes, there’s 4 or 5 different ways to achieve the same results and there’s always room for improvement. I have no problems upgrading if the results are very positive.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
While I do understand all the view points, I feel as though there's a bit of putting the cart before the horse. In this case - I still stand by trying something new. I had a conversation with another car friend saying how much of a stir it may cause on the forum... I guess I thought it would be more positive to learn something new. Isn't tweaking the car to it's maximum capability half the fun?

From my perspective: I still believe this may prove quite effective in it's thermal management using a "better" pad and rotor combination (without creating something entirely custom and cost prohibitive). This is a fairly easy off-the-shelf conversion towards that goal, while also understanding the basic balance needs for creating an effective package. Now I'm investigating rear cost effective alternatives having learned what I did on the front end.

I have to be clear - I'm not going for a setup to use little pedal, or lock the fronts in order to stop, but to end up with better braking performance overall than the average provided setup. I think with a bit of tinkering and basic physics understanding, this has an interesting outlook that could benefit others too! And if not... I guess it will be learning for the future tinkerers as well!
If it makes you feel any better, I’m going to use the LNF SS 4 piston brembos up front.
I got all the same responses you did. Haha.
I will have brake proportioning though.
All in the name of thermal management.
 

TravMac

Well-Known Member
Oh I'll be sure to provide all the feedback I can! And Rttoys, I'll have a front wing as well, so not too out of place, ha! I guess we'll have more to discuss once this thing gets on it's feet and can get some testing in!
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Considering there’s so many directions these cars can go in and endless r&d in every aspect, I highly encourage testing and modifying everything you want, especially when it comes to performance stuff. These cars are great out of the box, but there is plenty of room for improvement.
 

TravMac

Well-Known Member
Something I've been extremely nervous for... a first start video!!


I have to say, the first start went very smooth. I got nervous at first but realized I wasn't even pressing down the clutch pedal all the way. Also disconnected the heat exchanger fan for the supercharger. Having it turn on with key on was hard to hear anything with the first key up. Will be wiring that into a relay in the future.

The setup is with a 80lb injectors and E85, so this was the first attempt to rescale the map for my buddy and I learning HP tuners. I guess something was just right! Dyno tuning will be the next step, but it should be able to get up and down the driveway no problem.

This weekend was a lot of finishing things off. Started with wire cleanup with the heat exchanger fan, radiator fan, and cluster buttons. Moved onto a lot of plumbing with the heat exchanger, radiator, and engine in general. The master cylinder reservoir relocation kit got installed on the car and hooked up. Finally got on the rear brakes on, but still need to install the parking brake cables.

Next is to bleed the brakes and clutch and make sure I don't have any coolant leaks. Then it's time for the center tunnel with shifter and parking brake!

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TravMac

Well-Known Member
Lots more done and a bit of learning along the way this weekend.

First: coolant. The supercharger heat exchanger lines had a few leaks which got into my harness wrap and center tunnel a bit. Tightened up the barbed fittings to the heat exchanger and things seem to be good for now! Seeing the potential leak path with the center tunnel hose makes me want to plumb in everything from end to end with no breaks, but it may be too tightly packaged for that. I'm sure this may be relocated in the future. For now, it's plumbed up and ready to go!

Second: wiring headlights ran into an issue. I didn't have high beam signal. After a few hours of going through the harness videos and my car wiring, it turns out I incorrectly switched the turn signal and the high beam wires when doing the original wiring. Glad I did a splitting wire loom and not taped everything up! A few cuts and some soldering later, all the lights work! Although my buddy says now the car has a face built for radio... ha. Maybe a bit too bug eyed, but at least it's stamped DOT for now. I have the Rigid D-Series Pro lights in spot and flood for the not so distant future.

Third: Turn signals and brake lights. Turn signal mirrors were the cheapest I could find on amazon. Made a quick bracket for fitting to the car mounts and they fit nicely. Thinking they may switch to bar mounted lights with signals like people run on side by sides for a better look/quality. I also wired in my brake lights. I went with the Rigid Chase lights which were a lot easier to wire than I expected - no special relays or diodes or anything required. Just followed the wiring for high, low, reverse, and ground. I may also wire in the courtesy light as a license plate light... more to come. At first though... I had an issue where I was shipped a blue light... After a bit of a laugh, I did send the light back for a new red one. Hoping the lights aren't scrutinized too hard not having the DOT stamp of approval. Trying to pick my battles with the eventual registration checks.

Fourth: Center tunnel. Tapped holes for installing and removing the center tunnel with some ease. I figure with the car will need a few services through there and didn't want to constantly drill rivets. Installed the parking brake handle and starting install for the shifter. Have a small fitment issue with the base of the shifter relative to the driver seat, so more work to come on that.

Last but not least: cleaned up routing for most everything. Wiring is just tucked so much more nicely away through the car. Unfortunately the only routing that is failing me is the supposed "ultra chemical resistant" hose used for my brake fluid (supposed to be fine compatibility wise...). It's actually sweating the fluid through the hose, so I will need to replace it. Researching brake fluid compatible hose has left me with some questions. Easiest one I can ask here - what does everyone else use? Any parts store just gave a blank look when even asking for brake fluid safe rubber line.

Of course pictures of the progress. Shifter install is next! Then just making the car pretty with side panels and wings and such. Soon to be ready to dyno!

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Rauq

Goblin Guru
I bought this for my brake line hose. I also was not able to run all the fuel, brake, and vacuum line connections with the supplied hose. This is pretty much the same stuff.
 

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
Lots more done and a bit of learning along the way this weekend.

First: coolant. The supercharger heat exchanger lines had a few leaks which got into my harness wrap and center tunnel a bit. Tightened up the barbed fittings to the heat exchanger and things seem to be good for now! Seeing the potential leak path with the center tunnel hose makes me want to plumb in everything from end to end with no breaks, but it may be too tightly packaged for that. I'm sure this may be relocated in the future. For now, it's plumbed up and ready to go!

Second: wiring headlights ran into an issue. I didn't have high beam signal. After a few hours of going through the harness videos and my car wiring, it turns out I incorrectly switched the turn signal and the high beam wires when doing the original wiring. Glad I did a splitting wire loom and not taped everything up! A few cuts and some soldering later, all the lights work! Although my buddy says now the car has a face built for radio... ha. Maybe a bit too bug eyed, but at least it's stamped DOT for now. I have the Rigid D-Series Pro lights in spot and flood for the not so distant future.

Third: Turn signals and brake lights. Turn signal mirrors were the cheapest I could find on amazon. Made a quick bracket for fitting to the car mounts and they fit nicely. Thinking they may switch to bar mounted lights with signals like people run on side by sides for a better look/quality. I also wired in my brake lights. I went with the Rigid Chase lights which were a lot easier to wire than I expected - no special relays or diodes or anything required. Just followed the wiring for high, low, reverse, and ground. I may also wire in the courtesy light as a license plate light... more to come. At first though... I had an issue where I was shipped a blue light... After a bit of a laugh, I did send the light back for a new red one. Hoping the lights aren't scrutinized too hard not having the DOT stamp of approval. Trying to pick my battles with the eventual registration checks.

Fourth: Center tunnel. Tapped holes for installing and removing the center tunnel with some ease. I figure with the car will need a few services through there and didn't want to constantly drill rivets. Installed the parking brake handle and starting install for the shifter. Have a small fitment issue with the base of the shifter relative to the driver seat, so more work to come on that.

Last but not least: cleaned up routing for most everything. Wiring is just tucked so much more nicely away through the car. Unfortunately the only routing that is failing me is the supposed "ultra chemical resistant" hose used for my brake fluid (supposed to be fine compatibility wise...). It's actually sweating the fluid through the hose, so I will need to replace it. Researching brake fluid compatible hose has left me with some questions. Easiest one I can ask here - what does everyone else use? Any parts store just gave a blank look when even asking for brake fluid safe rubber line.

Of course pictures of the progress. Shifter install is next! Then just making the car pretty with side panels and wings and such. Soon to be ready to dyno!

View attachment 27612View attachment 27604View attachment 27605View attachment 27611View attachment 27610View attachment 27609View attachment 27608View attachment 27607View attachment 27606
I love the head lights.
 

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
Lots more done and a bit of learning along the way this weekend.

First: coolant. The supercharger heat exchanger lines had a few leaks which got into my harness wrap and center tunnel a bit. Tightened up the barbed fittings to the heat exchanger and things seem to be good for now! Seeing the potential leak path with the center tunnel hose makes me want to plumb in everything from end to end with no breaks, but it may be too tightly packaged for that. I'm sure this may be relocated in the future. For now, it's plumbed up and ready to go!

Second: wiring headlights ran into an issue. I didn't have high beam signal. After a few hours of going through the harness videos and my car wiring, it turns out I incorrectly switched the turn signal and the high beam wires when doing the original wiring. Glad I did a splitting wire loom and not taped everything up! A few cuts and some soldering later, all the lights work! Although my buddy says now the car has a face built for radio... ha. Maybe a bit too bug eyed, but at least it's stamped DOT for now. I have the Rigid D-Series Pro lights in spot and flood for the not so distant future.

Third: Turn signals and brake lights. Turn signal mirrors were the cheapest I could find on amazon. Made a quick bracket for fitting to the car mounts and they fit nicely. Thinking they may switch to bar mounted lights with signals like people run on side by sides for a better look/quality. I also wired in my brake lights. I went with the Rigid Chase lights which were a lot easier to wire than I expected - no special relays or diodes or anything required. Just followed the wiring for high, low, reverse, and ground. I may also wire in the courtesy light as a license plate light... more to come. At first though... I had an issue where I was shipped a blue light... After a bit of a laugh, I did send the light back for a new red one. Hoping the lights aren't scrutinized too hard not having the DOT stamp of approval. Trying to pick my battles with the eventual registration checks.

Fourth: Center tunnel. Tapped holes for installing and removing the center tunnel with some ease. I figure with the car will need a few services through there and didn't want to constantly drill rivets. Installed the parking brake handle and starting install for the shifter. Have a small fitment issue with the base of the shifter relative to the driver seat, so more work to come on that.

Last but not least: cleaned up routing for most everything. Wiring is just tucked so much more nicely away through the car. Unfortunately the only routing that is failing me is the supposed "ultra chemical resistant" hose used for my brake fluid (supposed to be fine compatibility wise...). It's actually sweating the fluid through the hose, so I will need to replace it. Researching brake fluid compatible hose has left me with some questions. Easiest one I can ask here - what does everyone else use? Any parts store just gave a blank look when even asking for brake fluid safe rubber line.

Of course pictures of the progress. Shifter install is next! Then just making the car pretty with side panels and wings and such. Soon to be ready to dyno!

View attachment 27612View attachment 27604View attachment 27605View attachment 27611View attachment 27610View attachment 27609View attachment 27608View attachment 27607View attachment 27606
I am planning on using rivenuts for the tunnel.
 

TravMac

Well-Known Member
I think the mechanical bits are done for the car! Now just tuning and a little more work cleaning up stuff for an inspection. Any suggestions for that checklist from any other Michigan folks is always appreciated! So for the work that was finished up:

First off, brake hose. I did take the few bits of feedback into consideration, but I found the kind of hose I used was not the "ultra chemical resistant" stuff. I ended up with Tygon 2375 which has been holding up well for a week or so now. It's also clear which is neat to see bubbles when filling everything up. Hopefully won't see any more, and no more sweating fluid!

Next, glad I did the removable tunnel cover in the long run. Had to take it off and put it on a few times, but this last time was to install the lap belts. Once those were in, I tightened it all down for the final assembly. Once the belts were in, I put in the drivers seat along with the 6 point and other harness belts. Passenger seat is still out of the car, but it will be the next thing that goes in.

After the tunnel was parking brake and shifter. Parking brake cables which were a fairly easy install. I have to figure out a place to tie them up so they don't interfere with the wheels, but that should be easy. The shifter needed a bit of modification to fit with the seat placement, but overall it's in good shape. My buddy and I re-sorted the connections to best fit where the shifter and incoming cables fell. At first, I tried the "helpful photo" album for shifter connections. Unfortunately, I kept hitting a ball end on the welded on linkage bracket. After moving things around for clearance, it all seems to work very well! I also spent way too long figuring out how to actually connect the manual linkages back to the stock shifter. I included pictures for anyone's reference.

I loosely attached the wing, final fitted all the lights with ordered hardware, and fitted my roller wheels for around the garage in the upcoming cold weather. This thing looks ready to go! Then we ran the car up to temp and cycled the fluid to make sure everything was flowing. Got a good 15 minutes of run time up to temp and everything seems to be working as intended. I can't wait to get on the dyno and start making some power to drive this thing around more!

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