Tunnel heat

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
I drove my turbo Goblin for about 3 hours with the cruise control set on 80 last week. (Texarkana to Dallas) The outside temp was 106, and I started the journey around noon. (Hot)

What I noticed was that super hot air was blasting out of the hole in the tunnel where the shifter cables route through. Also, the air was so stagnant in the cabin that I was miserable.

I feel like with that much heat going through the tunnel that it is surely counteracting any cooling accomplished by the heat exchanger and, in turn, superheating the long water lines in the tunnel, which is then sending heated coolant to the intercooler.

As a quick fix for the heated air traveling through the tunnel, I shot some spray foam in the front opening of the tunnel.
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This will make servicing everything in the front of the tunnel a chore, but I will cross that bridge if I have to.

As far as fresh air in the people area, I am going to drill some holes through the side panels and attach some printed scoops.

Monday, I will be driving it back to Texarkana. It will be in the morning, so hopefully, the weather will be cooler along with fresh air being pumped in and no tunnel heat I will be a happy Goblineer.

It would be great if someone with the DF front heat exchanger system could log the temp difference with and without blocking the tunnel airflow.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
106 is pretty uncomfortable in any open car, especially for that length of driving time. Plugging the tunnel at the front should help keep the hot radiator air from traveling down the tunnel.

Another concern is the HE tubes are not insulated and sitting next to each other (at least very close in an enclosed space), so there will be heat exchange between tubes - both of which would pick up heat from the radiator area too as you've indicated. Maybe getting some pipe wrap/insulation on them, which will still allow them to fit into the tunnel may also help?

Please share the info/pics of your side vents, will be interesting to see what your solution will be. I have yet to test how effective the integrated hood scoop and plenum that I incorporated into my hood. From your concerns about stagnant air in the cabin, additional venting may be necessary.

Good luck with the drive back, hopefully the weather will cooperate more and not be 100something!
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Mod your windshield. Huge difference!

 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Wrapping things in plastic wrap might make it easier to remove the foam if needed.

I have bought a couple of these 60mm Car RV ATV A/C Vent Air Outlet Rotating Interior Round Ceiling (Black) | eBay to install in the side panels near my feet. But since I added a driver side 1/2 windshield, I seem to have a lot of hot air that comes over the top of the side panel (pulled across by the pressure diff with the 1/2 windshield). I've been afraid that the air coming in through the vents would be to warm to help any.
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
Lonny, could you 3D print a plug for the tunnel w/ holes for all of the lines? I was thinking of something similar just to help keep everything separated and prevent any rubbing damage.
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
So I plugged up the front of my tunnel and installed the footwell cover. The cabin is cooler but not there is so little airflow from the front I’m getting exhaust fumes coming over my shoulder to the point I can’t drive the car in traffic. If these work please let me know. I may want a set to get rid of the fumes
 

RITDR

Active Member
Lonny,
There may be more airflow in the next open frame section back. I have looked at this myself, and the section near the foot area does get some air, but the next section back (knee area) seemed to have more air coming in through the frame, at least it seemed that way with no panels installed.
That’s where I was looking at adding vents.
 
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