Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
Thank you, that’s what I thought, mine is slightly bent and I need to trim the pedal.
Whidbey Goblin, track chassis for the streets. 05 SS donor.
- Thread starter Whidbey Goblin
- Start date
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
Reason 269, why it’s important to own a side-by-side. Didn’t have a buddy available so I used the winch to lift the car over the motor.
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Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
Motor is in!!
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Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Hey, your almost done! Autocross is next weekend.
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
I wish!. Where did you pull the vacuum for your brake booster from? I’m thinking it’s on the intake tube that comes from DF kit car?
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
Or can I pull it from this small port?
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Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
OK, I believe that is the one that normally routes around to the valve cover. Did you end up using the stock fuel pump? If I remember correctly you have the exact same donor I do, 2005 SS. My fuel pump doesn’t have the standard plug in the top, it has kind of a harness that comes out of it. I’m considering buying a new fuel pump and I’m curious if I can just get the standard for a 2.2.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Yes, used the SC stock pump and re-used the pump power plug by modifying it. It wasn't difficult and if I need to replace the pump I know I can stick with the '05 style pump.
Link to my post on it:
Carl's Track Goblin - 05 SS SC donor, Chassis # 39
I did't want to discourage anybody. That amount of time I spent was drawn out since before the Holidays. If you could dedicate around 4hrs a day, say 2 days a week, you could get it knocked out pretty quick. I just had so much downtime in between sessions working on it, that I wanted to figure...
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
So it seems like I should use this port for my power brake booster vacuum line. My question is, where do I run the line that comes from the valve cover?
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Aguinaga
Active Member
I'm getting more car terms down and what parts are what as I build mine. Soooo what is that part, you caught my attention with important parts. haha
Ross
Goblin Guru
I cut the black hose at the red line, then inserted the brake booster line (white) into the black hose, and put a hose clamp (blue) on it real tight, to shrink the black hose down onto the booster line.
I removed the valve cover hose, and put a small filter on it. If you are running stock boost this works well, but if your boost pressure gets too high, you might want to run this to a catch can, otherwise this filter will start leaking oil out the bottom. Up to you if you want to run these fumes back thru the intake, and get that gunk all over your intake parts.
I removed the valve cover hose, and put a small filter on it. If you are running stock boost this works well, but if your boost pressure gets too high, you might want to run this to a catch can, otherwise this filter will start leaking oil out the bottom. Up to you if you want to run these fumes back thru the intake, and get that gunk all over your intake parts.
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
Five days after getting my chassis out of powder coat the first start went great! A little worried I fried a brand new water pump for my supercharger cooling system. I had it plugged in and it ran it dry to the point of making a terrible noise. Other than that everything went great!
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
Timing chain tensioner and timing chain guide bolt.
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
So my first start was good, I ran it for probably 10 minutes. Started it again yesterday for a couple of friends that came over to check it out. Now this morning I have a puddle of oil underneath it. Appears to be coming from between the engine and transmission. Rear main? Just the oil Pan?
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Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Is it engine oil?
Or is it transmission?
I had a little leak, a spot the size of a quarter and ID'd as tranny oil. After it made the two spots it hasn't leaked since.
Or is it transmission?
I had a little leak, a spot the size of a quarter and ID'd as tranny oil. After it made the two spots it hasn't leaked since.
Whidbey Goblin
Well-Known Member
It does not smell like trans fluid. My dip stick reads over full but I only put 5 quarts in it and the car isn't sitting level. I’m kind of wondering if the stress of running it with only the two motor mounts could’ve created a leak at the oil pan. I did hook up my power brake booster vacuum line between the first start and this last start. So this last start didn’t have any vacuum on the vent line at the valve cover. That would be the only difference.
I would finish the Goblin and as long as the oil leak is not too bad drive it for a while. When the engine gets up to temperature a few times the seals will soften and conform better which might solve the leak problem. If it doesn't at least you got to drive enough to test the clutch and know if anything other problems need to be addressed while you are in there.