williamj95
Active Member
Rttoys maybe I'm blind, but I'm not seeing the answer to my question in the link you provided. That thread seems to be all about the brake lights.
Williamj95 Build
- Thread starter williamj95
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The first post had all the colors and such. There’s actually another thread that has all the info, immust couldn’t find it. Figured that one would cover it. Maybe not williamj95
Active Member
Folks, I need some help. Trying to work on the rear brakes. When I went install the rear calipers, nothing lines up. In the two attached pictures you can see that the spacing for the caliper mounting holes on the spindle is about 5". The spaces for the mounting holes on the calipers supplied by DF is about 3.5". Clearly these aren't going together. What am I missing here?
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williamj95
Active Member
Oh I see now. Those brackets are in the parking brake kit which I haven't starting messing with yet. Thanks for your help.
Don't be confused by the LH/RH cast into the calipers - the LH goes on the right (passenger) side and the RH goes on the left (drivers) side. Just keep the bleeders on top and you'll be fine.
williamj95
Active Member
Yeah, I figured that out looking at some photos. Originally I had it backwards because I assumed the bleeders would point down but the parking brake levers won't work that way.
williamj95
Active Member
Starting Issue - 2009 non turbo engine, auto trans
Guys, I need some help. My engine install has been done for months and the engine has been running fine. I'm near the end of my build and suddenly I have an starting issue. This morning I went out to start up my Goblin, turned the key. The headlights come on, the dash lights come on but the engine doesn't turn over. Funny thing is, I tried starting it like six times and nothing. The seventh time I turned the key, it fired right up and ran. I turned it off, turned the key and nothing. It hasn't started since. The battery is brand new. The starter is brand new. I tried the whole tapping the starter thing to see it that was the issue, but no luck. I have no idea what could be the issue here. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Note that I'm leaving for Florida tomorrow and will be gone for a week, so I won't be able to get back on this until I'm back, but I will respond to all your replies and let you know if your suggestions solved the problem or not. Thanks in advance.
Guys, I need some help. My engine install has been done for months and the engine has been running fine. I'm near the end of my build and suddenly I have an starting issue. This morning I went out to start up my Goblin, turned the key. The headlights come on, the dash lights come on but the engine doesn't turn over. Funny thing is, I tried starting it like six times and nothing. The seventh time I turned the key, it fired right up and ran. I turned it off, turned the key and nothing. It hasn't started since. The battery is brand new. The starter is brand new. I tried the whole tapping the starter thing to see it that was the issue, but no luck. I have no idea what could be the issue here. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Note that I'm leaving for Florida tomorrow and will be gone for a week, so I won't be able to get back on this until I'm back, but I will respond to all your replies and let you know if your suggestions solved the problem or not. Thanks in advance.
Loose connection somewhere but impossible to say where. You are going to have to start wiggling things to try and tie it down. I would start at the fuse box but could be at the bcm. It also could be a bad trans safety switch. And by loose connections I’m including grounds. But that’s about all we can tie it down to from just an intermittent no crank. Anything more detailed will be a wild guess, And it may come and go several times as you try and narrow it down. If wiggling wires doesn’t tie it down, you will have to start at one end and try to figure out what link in the chain isn’t working correctly.
The other option is to connect a higher end scanner and see what shows as not working. But even this isn’t 100%.
The other option is to connect a higher end scanner and see what shows as not working. But even this isn’t 100%.
williamj95
Active Member
Guys, I'm trying to troubleshoot this starting issue. I got a diagram of the ignition system and I decided to start with the ignition switch. According to the diagram a white wire that runs from the ignition switch to the BCM is the wire that tells the car to start. There are two data wires that come out of the BCM and go to the ECM that tell the starter to engage. I measured the voltage on the white wire. It's 12V with the key off, 4V with the key on, and 3V with the key turned full. The data wires coming out of the BCM have 0.8V with the key off and 1.7V with the key on and they key turned full. With the same voltage on those wire with the key on and turned full, it's telling me that the BCM is not sending the signal to the ECM to start the car.
The issue is, I don't know what the correct voltages should be. I don't know if it's the ignition switch that is sending incorrect voltages to the BCM or the BCM is sending out incorrect voltages. Does anyone here have any knowledge on this?
The issue is, I don't know what the correct voltages should be. I don't know if it's the ignition switch that is sending incorrect voltages to the BCM or the BCM is sending out incorrect voltages. Does anyone here have any knowledge on this?
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
The signals between the BCM and ECM/PCM are generally not 12V but typically at 5V or less, depending upon what circuit is using/expecting. Don't assume a multimeter will diagnose a bad BCM or ECM/PCM based on your measurements. The signals would need to be measured against a known good system.
First thing to check are your grounds. Are all of them connected and mating to bare metal. Next are all connections made to ignition switch, both of them if you have the VATS ring. The throttle, brake, clutch and dash panel connections must be good. Check the tightness of the BCM and ECM/ PCM plugs - they need to be seriously tight.
Reccomend these checks need to be done before You start buying other parts and playing swaptronics.
First thing to check are your grounds. Are all of them connected and mating to bare metal. Next are all connections made to ignition switch, both of them if you have the VATS ring. The throttle, brake, clutch and dash panel connections must be good. Check the tightness of the BCM and ECM/ PCM plugs - they need to be seriously tight.
Reccomend these checks need to be done before You start buying other parts and playing swaptronics.
If you dig over the past few months I posted a chart the shows what voltage should be seen when the ignition switch is in the various positions but yours sounds right.
You can’t measure the voltage on the data wires and get much from it to tell anything other than the fact data is being transferred. I’ve posted a link to an aeswave.com file that will give you the basic voltage that is on the high speed wires when data is being passed but again I think yours sounds about right.
For it to start there are a lot of things the ECM has to see as correct. Key positions, security, clutch position/Park-neutral switch and maybe more that I’m forgetting. Then there are a few dtc’s that can cause it to not start. However it’s still probably a loose connection or something in the fuse box. I would start by checking voltage (or even better an Incandescent test light) by back probing x1-32 of the ECM while trying to start it. That should tell you which side the problem is on.
You can’t measure the voltage on the data wires and get much from it to tell anything other than the fact data is being transferred. I’ve posted a link to an aeswave.com file that will give you the basic voltage that is on the high speed wires when data is being passed but again I think yours sounds about right.
For it to start there are a lot of things the ECM has to see as correct. Key positions, security, clutch position/Park-neutral switch and maybe more that I’m forgetting. Then there are a few dtc’s that can cause it to not start. However it’s still probably a loose connection or something in the fuse box. I would start by checking voltage (or even better an Incandescent test light) by back probing x1-32 of the ECM while trying to start it. That should tell you which side the problem is on.
williamj95
Active Member
Gtstorey, I found your chart. Here it is.
All my voltages line up with yours, except the white wire (pin 5). I'm getting 12V with the key in. 4V at Run. You didn't list a voltage for Start but I'm getting 3V. I gut tells me that the Start voltage should be 12V. As I said above, the voltage on the data wires coming out of the BCM doesn't change when the key goes from Run to Start, so it clearly isn't sending the correct signal to the ECM. It would be great if one of you all could put a voltmeter on the white ignition wire of your Goblin and tell me what the voltage is in the Start position. That would completely answer the question.
All my voltages line up with yours, except the white wire (pin 5). I'm getting 12V with the key in. 4V at Run. You didn't list a voltage for Start but I'm getting 3V. I gut tells me that the Start voltage should be 12V. As I said above, the voltage on the data wires coming out of the BCM doesn't change when the key goes from Run to Start, so it clearly isn't sending the correct signal to the ECM. It would be great if one of you all could put a voltmeter on the white ignition wire of your Goblin and tell me what the voltage is in the Start position. That would completely answer the question.
Joebob
Goblin Guru
This is my go to for high speed LAN connection issues:
How to test a CAN bus network with a meter - YouTube
Personally, I have had the individual pins in the connectors stretch over age and use causing intermittent connectivity issues.
Joe
How to test a CAN bus network with a meter - YouTube
Personally, I have had the individual pins in the connectors stretch over age and use causing intermittent connectivity issues.
Joe
You don’t understand how the data wires work. It doesn’t work off a change in voltage but instead is sending data in packets that the individual modules know how to read. This happens way to fast for a voltmeter to really read and all you get is an average voltage but no way of knowing what the data actually says. That is why the wire diagrams show sections labeled “logic” since the modules are basically computers making decisions based upon what the data packets are telling them.
Backprobing Connector X1 pin 32 will tell you if the ECM is being told if it’s ok to start.
williamj95
Active Member
Gtstorey, I get what you are saying about the data being sent on the BCM data wires and maybe a voltmeter isn't the best way to measure that. I already checked ECM X1 pin 32 which is the wire that sends the signal to the starter to start. Currently, that wire has 0V on it when the key is turned to started, so the signal isn't making it that far.
Did you ever end up finding out what your issue was? My car is doing something that sounds similar... Through my entire build process I would push the clutch, turn the key and it would fire right up with no issue.... just recently it started having a "delayed" start. I push the clutch, turn the key and the lights and gauges all come on but doesn't even attempt to crank, But if I just leave the key held over to start for 5-10 seconds it will crank and start. This is intermittent.. sometimes its delayed and will start if I hold the key, sometimes it starts up immediately and sometimes it just wont crank at all