Williamj95 Build

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
First photo, yes that is the ABS control, it is not needed for the Goblin. Second photo, not sure what you are asking about, but hood latch is not needed and can be junked with the donor carcass. Third photo, yes there are wiring differences between the coupe and sedan. Keep everything and label each connector, when you thin the harness it will become apparent.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
What he said above. That is the ABS plug and it is actually the first plug you cut out in the wire thinning videos. You have an Automatic like me so the twisted data wires are different. Ours doe not run to the ECU like the video but to the body to engine harness or the purple and black 14 pin connector that was unplugged near the brake booster. You are correct that the second picture are the ABS sensors and they will all be cut out as said above. The hood latch can be removed and is also mentioned in the video when Lonny talks about cutting and saving the ambient temp sensor off a 6 pin connector. 2 are for the temp sensor, 2 for an ABS sensor, and 2 (not in video) are for an optional hood sensor. I hear you with the differences in the coupe and sedan as I have 1 too. I used tin snips to cut out that wheel well cover too but it has to come out to get the fuel system. BAR-AIR build log has 2 sections of wiring plug info for a 2.2L California Automatic. I am using it as a check that I have cut/not cut the right wires. I have a sedan with seat heaters so I am adding to his notes and will post some edited pictures but he did 95% of the work. Good luck.

Joe
 

williamj95

Active Member
Video 7 complete

No real issues here. Everything went smooth enough. I was surprised at the level of decomposition we do to the steering column. I guess in my mind I was thinking we would be using that basically as is. I guess not. I was really surprised that we needed to destroy the steering wheel to pound it off the shaft. I guess the Goblin will be getting a new steering wheel. Anyways, on to video 8. I’m dying to get this skeleton of a car out of my garage.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Video 7 complete

No real issues here. Everything went smooth enough. I was surprised at the level of decomposition we do to the steering column. I guess in my mind I was thinking we would be using that basically as is. I guess not. I was really surprised that we needed to destroy the steering wheel to pound it off the shaft. I guess the Goblin will be getting a new steering wheel. Anyways, on to video 8. I’m dying to get this skeleton of a car out of my garage.
Yep. Mostly just the shaft and the collapsible part. Oh and the bearing and circlip, don't forget the circlip.
 

williamj95

Active Member
Video 8 Complete

So I made it through video 8. Back to dealing with rusty bolts and nuts. Surprisingly I was able to get everything off without having to cut anything off. So the car is completely stripped, put it on a dolly, and moved it our of my garage. Hooray I can finally get my own car back in the garage. I tried calling several places and had no luck finding someone to come take the skeleton of a Cobalt away. I finally gave up and my son and I grabbed a couple of saws and cut the body into five pieces and hauled it all to the metal recycle center at our local dump. It’s gone and now I can move on to the wiring harness. Until next time.
 

williamj95

Active Member
Wiring Harness Video 3 Question

I've completed video 3 where we remove all the connectors and wires on that long branch of the wiring harness, but once the video was over and all the wires on that branch were removed in the video I had one connector left that isn't covered in the video. When I was unconnecting everything during the stripping of the donor, I tagged this connector as the "ground sensor". There are a couple pictures of it below. It has a grey, white, and black wire connected to it. The question is, can I remove this connector and it's wires completely or should I leave it alone for future use?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

Attachments

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
Keep it; it will run to the front of the Goblin and plug into the battery current sensor attached the the negative battery cable.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
One thing to note as you get to video 10 or so and extending lines, is that the Automatic shifter plug needs to be extended 20" or so toward the ECU. I left it as it was stock and for good measure I went and watched the original wiring videos which is for a 2.2L automatic and saw that they extended the connector. I will have to extend mine once I start fitting into the frame. It is a good idea to watch all the original videos to make sure you don't miss any base model things as the new videos are Turbo/manual centric.
 

williamj95

Active Member
Wiring Harness Video 4 - Reality Check

Guys, let me know if I'm moving in the right direction here. I had a few issues finishing this video.

First, for the Dash Multiplug, I printed off the labels they provided for the base donor which I have but I quickly discovered that those labels didn't match my wiring at all. For instance, my plug never even had wires in the A1 or B1 positions. I did some searching on the forum and it sounds as if the main thing is to be able to match the wires to the mating connector on the other end. Based on that, I tagged the position of all the wires I had and I removed none of them. I'm thinking I should then be able to match them up with the mating wires on the other side.

Second, at the end of the video they show cut off brown twisted pair wires coming out of the ECM which they say are data wires. I believe in the video those wires originally ran from the ECM to the ECBM connector. My car had ABS so the main brake connector was a bit different as was some of the wiring. I do have a twisted brown wire coming out of my ECM plug but currently its running and connected to the Engine to Body connector. I'm pretty certain this must be the wires they are showing. Should I go ahead and cut them and remove the end going to the Engine to Body connector?

Third, they also show a cut pink wire coming out of the ECM that was connected to the coolant level sensor in the video. I'm pretty certain my car just didn't have that sensor. I mean my wiring harness doesn't have many connectors left and I definitely don't have a connector that matches what they show in the video. I have five pink wires coming out of my ECM. Three of them go to the Dash Multiplug and two of them run to the BCM connector, so I just don't seem to have this wire. I'm hoping that won't be a problem down the road.

Thoughts?
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
You have a LS 2.2 donor, and the new wiring videos were done with a SS/TC harness. I am not sure which wires you'll have or not have, but you could probably pull up the older wiring videos to cross-check.
 

MJP61

Well-Known Member
Keep it; it will run to the front of the Goblin and plug into the battery current sensor attached the the negative battery cable.
I am working on the harness and I am not sure where to route my Battery Current sensor wires? Any idea if I extend it or leave it as is just and just run it towards the BCM?
 

williamj95

Active Member
MJP61, if you have a base model donor, you really need to watch the original wiring harness videos. I started with the new videos and ran into a number of questions. Based on Ark and Joebob's advice I went back and started over with the original videos and that really helped. They don't even mention the current senor plug in the new videos but they cover it in the original ones. You need to run the current senor past the BCM. There's a lot of wire on that plug so you'll want to cut a lot of it out and make the wires so that the plug is about 6 feet past the BCM. After that, tape up about two feet of the wires from the plug. If you follow the original videos, your horn plug will be in about the same place and you tape the current sensor wires to the horn wires about 18 inches from the ends of both plugs.
 

MJP61

Well-Known Member
MJP61, if you have a base model donor, you really need to watch the original wiring harness videos. I started with the new videos and ran into a number of questions. Based on Ark and Joebob's advice I went back and started over with the original videos and that really helped. They don't even mention the current senor plug in the new videos but they cover it in the original ones. You need to run the current senor past the BCM. There's a lot of wire on that plug so you'll want to cut a lot of it out and make the wires so that the plug is about 6 feet past the BCM. After that, tape up about two feet of the wires from the plug. If you follow the original videos, your horn plug will be in about the same place and you tape the current sensor wires to the horn wires about 18 inches from the ends of both plugs.
Thank you very much williamj95. Watched earlier videos. Worked out perfectly.
 

williamj95

Active Member
Wiring Harness Question 2

Folks, I’m getting near the end of this wiring harness process but I just ran into a snag. I was looking at the last video 11, where they are showing testing the various grounds. Two of the wires they show testing, the two turn signal wire bundles, I don’t have. I went back to the original videos, like Joebob and Ark suggested, and went through them step by step. Those turn signal wires aren’t in the original videos (or somehow I completely missed them).

Watching the new series of videos, I see in video 10 where they instruct you to pull the blue wire from each headlight wire bundle, split a green wire onto it and run it for the turn signals. I see in the videos were they have you add two red and two orange four foot wires for these bundles. Were I’m stumped is where they show soldering two brown wires to these new red wires.

I don’t have two loose brown wires in my harness. Looking through the new wiring harness videos, in video 5 is shows taping a junction of brown wires to the harness that has three wires aiming toward the fuse box and two wires aiming toward the BCM. In the video the two wires aiming toward the BCM are loose, so I’m assuming those are the two brown wires they are talking about.

For me currently, the three wires aiming toward the fuse box run to the tail lights and license plate light. The two aiming toward the BCM, one is connect to one of the BCM plugs and the other loops back and is connected to one of the fuse box plugs. I don’t see anywhere in the videos were it tells you to cut these wires free.

There are two other brown wires in the harness that run from the BCM to two different fuse box plugs.

So the question is, what two brown wires I’m I supposed to be soldering to these red wires? Did I miss something somewhere? Please help.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Some trim levels have different park lamp configurations in the back. So yours may not have had as many brown wires.
Strip back some of the insulation on one of the brown wires that lead into that junction of brown wires and solder your red wires for the mirror park lamps into the area you stripped. Tape up the junction and you will be good to go.
 

williamj95

Active Member
Thanks for the quick response, Lonny. So I'll splice into the two brown wires heading to the tail lights. I guess that will tie the rear turn signals into the front ones. Makes sense. Thank s again.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
That will tie the rear park lamps in with the front park lamps. Which is what you want.
You should have two green wires extending from the headlamp wires to the mirrors for the turn signals.
 

williamj95

Active Member
The original video series had us extend the head light wires past the BCM and re-solder the headlight plugs on, so that is what I currently have. Looking at the new series, I see that they want you to take the blue wire for each of the headlights, splice on a green wire and use them for the turn signals, so I need to make that change. I guess the blue wire on the head light plug will just end up being unconnected to anything.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
This is where you can get a little creative with how you want to build your Goblin. Some have just the high/low beam circuits and ground as bare wires going to the headlights, while some have parking and turn signals wired in as well like @Ark :D to light halos and turn signals up front as well as at the mirrors. I took his advice and wired for anything and may just use single low beam LED "foglights" as my headlights, which means the other 3 wired will not be used. But I will have options if I change something down the road.

Joe
 

williamj95

Active Member
Wiring Harness – Done

Wow. This was hard. Between starting with the new wiring harness videos, going back to the original, and then back to the new and trying to marry everything together. I wish I could say that I’m confident I have this harness 100% right, but that would be a lie. I think I’m close. I think I have all the plugs and wires the Goblin will need, but I guess I’ll find out when I start putting the thing together.

Anyways, I think I’ve done all I can do with this harness. I appreciate those who answered my questions. Time to move on to the next video.
 
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