PHENDERSON
Well-Known Member
Crap...that is going to be hard to reach!
Write up on bleeding brakes and clutch?
- Thread starter PHENDERSON
- Start date
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
There is only one bleeder on the trans line and it is the one pointing towards the front of the car in your pic above.
You bleed from the clutch master cylinder to the bleeder first using the same technique as the brakes. Once that is done, you need to pump and hold down the clutch pedal before opening the bleeder. When you crack the bleeder, the slave cylinder will push air to the bleeder from its end of the line. You must close the bleeder before releasing the clutch pedal. Continue doing this until there is no more air coming out from the slave cylinder side.
So, it's only the one bleeder screw you already identified and it's 2 different techniques to bleed from each side of that bleeder.
I followed Lonny's directions (linked in my response above) and it worked just fine.
You bleed from the clutch master cylinder to the bleeder first using the same technique as the brakes. Once that is done, you need to pump and hold down the clutch pedal before opening the bleeder. When you crack the bleeder, the slave cylinder will push air to the bleeder from its end of the line. You must close the bleeder before releasing the clutch pedal. Continue doing this until there is no more air coming out from the slave cylinder side.
So, it's only the one bleeder screw you already identified and it's 2 different techniques to bleed from each side of that bleeder.
I followed Lonny's directions (linked in my response above) and it worked just fine.
PHENDERSON
Well-Known Member
I did a pressure test by connecting to the master cylinder and pumping up to 10psi. After fixing a few leaks I'm to the point where I can't find anymore but in 2 hours it dropped to 5psi. Might be the connection from pump to master cylinder or the pump itself but if not is this an acceptable leak rate or should there be none at all?
PHENDERSON
Well-Known Member
I tried a combination of push and pull. I wasn't getting anything to come out of the bleeder by using pressure at the master so I applied vacuum on the bleeder with pressure at the other end and it worked. Hopefully this is okay and I didn't just do some big no-no. After getting the rears I only needed to apply pressure for the fronts to start bleeding.
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
Sounds like you just bench-bled the master cylinder the hard way. As long as you got fluid out of each corner and did so until no more bubbles then everything is fine.
PHENDERSON
Well-Known Member
Nice. I thought about bench bleeding the MC but didn't want to unscrew all the connections since I just put hydraulic sealant on them. Seemed fairly easy to do it the way I did. Good to know I didn't harm anything.
Now to the clutch line. And then I might try and start the engine. I have been putting it off for a long enough. I completely rebuilt the engine, plus all the wiring we do I'm just afraid it will explode. Or even worse absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key.
Now to the clutch line. And then I might try and start the engine. I have been putting it off for a long enough. I completely rebuilt the engine, plus all the wiring we do I'm just afraid it will explode. Or even worse absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key.
PHENDERSON
Well-Known Member
I think im done with all the bleeding of lines. Thanks everyone for all your input.
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
It's not a good feeling. I am getting a no-crank condition now and it ran just fine before I bled the brakes/clutch and wired in all my lights/gauges.
Check your grounds, engine to body harness connector, and the fuse box positive cable @Sluggonaut
SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
Grounds. It’s always the grounds. Lol