WYGoblin's Extended City Frame Goblin - 08 SS/TC

JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
WYGoblin said:
I was hoping to have my first start this weekend but ran into a problem. I dropped the ball and should of removed the fuel pump from the cobalt tank sooner. The donor had sugar in the fill tube but ran great. I pulled the pump and there is a bunch of sugar in the donor tank as well. Even though the pump does work I don't want to contaminate the goblin fuel system, so time for a new pump. So seeing as I couldn't start the car this weekend I got the headlights and tail lights on, dash button panel on and wired. Still need to tie up wires and such. The steering column is all together. Been trying to figure out if I want to run the shift cables in the tunnel or on top. I think it would be cleaner in the tunnel but worried about having too much in there and rubbing wires or the intercooler tubes. So close to registration and driving but seems to be slowing down due to small problems here and there. Still need to figure out where to put a second o2 bung and where to hook up and aftermarket boost gauge. I opted to go aftermarket with the boost gauge seeing as all I was finding for oem was as much as the aftermarket or more and not guaranteed to work either.
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"where to put a second o2 bung"
The first O2 is right behind the turbo outlet. The second one originally was after the cat, correct? If we no longer have a catalytic converter, where does the second one go? I assume the computer will want to see a signal from the second sensor and would not be happy without it?
 
WYGoblin

WYGoblin

Well-Known Member
JBINTX said:
"where to put a second o2 bung"
The first O2 is right behind the turbo outlet. The second one originally was after the cat, correct? If we no longer have a catalytic converter, where does the second one go? I assume the computer will want to see a signal from the second sensor and would not be happy without it?
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The ecm will throw a code for the missing o2 sensor but it can be disabled with hp tuners. I am going to install a wideband o2 sensor for an afr gauge for tuning. I do believe the car will run fine even with the o2 codes though.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
My 06 SC LSJ had an O2 bung on the exhaust manifold (also on the replacement chinese shorty header), and another one on the DF supplied muffler pipe. I used one for the GM narrow band O2 sensor, and the other one for the aftermarket AEM wideband O2 sensor. I eliminated the post-catalytic converter GM O2 sensor.
 
WYGoblin

WYGoblin

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
My 06 SC LSJ had an O2 bung on the exhaust manifold (also on the replacement chinese shorty header), and another one on the DF supplied muffler pipe. I used one for the GM narrow band O2 sensor, and the other one for the aftermarket AEM wideband O2 sensor. I eliminated the post-catalytic converter GM O2 sensor.
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Ross that is what I am wanting to do but don't have a o2 bung in the DF supplied muffler so have to decide where to put it and weld in a bung. I think I am going to weld it where it comes across parallel to the subframe. Hopefully it wont get too hot there
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I think that would be a good spot. Wish mine was there. My AEM sensor said to mount the bung at least 18" away from the exhaust port, so it doesn't get too hot, and to try and get it halfway between vertical and horizontal, to allow water to drip off of it. My bung was too close to the exhaust port, so I added a Kinugawa Thermo-Isolating O2 Bungs (Screw In) standoff, which reduces the air getting to my wideband, which will cause the sensor to be a little bit slower in response.
 
WYGoblin

WYGoblin

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
I think that would be a good spot. Wish mine was there. My AEM sensor said to mount the bung at least 18" away from the exhaust port, so it doesn't get too hot, and to try and get it halfway between vertical and horizontal, to allow water to drip off of it. My bung was too close to the exhaust port, so I added a Kinugawa Thermo-Isolating O2 Bungs (Screw In) standoff, which reduces the air getting to my wideband, which will cause the sensor to be a little bit slower in response.
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I seen your post about that bung as was wondering if it slowed the response. Hopefully I won't have to use one. Did you disable your 2nd o2 codes and if so did you have to have the o2 plugged in to keep from getting the permanent code?
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
My 2006 donor is different than your 2008 (16 bit PCM vs 32 bit). I removed the 2nd O2 sensor, no permanent code. That thermo isolating bung has a 3/16" hole in an out. Probably the same as mounting the bung a few inches further down the exhaust pipe, but not as bad as if you take your car into a dyno tuner place, where they put the O2 sensor near the end of the tailpipe. Yes, I have removed some emission codes, but I would have to dig to figure out which ones.
 
WYGoblin

WYGoblin

Well-Known Member
I got a question. For the clamp that holds the coolant hose away from the pulleys, what does it look like and did it come with the kit. I still need to go look for it again but that work thing got in the way for the last few days.
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I don't have a pic but it looks like a J that is about 4" long and about 1 1/4" wide. It has about a 10 mm bolt hole at the top.
 
WYGoblin

WYGoblin

Well-Known Member
I looked again for the j bracket and could not find it. I called Adam and was informed that the turbo kits do not use the j bracket for the coolant hose. Instead you don't cut the hose and route it around the alt down to the hose in the frame. It also give room for the air intake piping and filter. Thanks everyone for the help and pics.
IMG_20180731_115003.jpg
 
WYGoblin

WYGoblin

Well-Known Member
Got some more stuff done on the goblin this weekend. Got all the coolant lines hooked up. To fill the cooling system I put a vacuum on the system till the hoses were collapsed then used the vacuum to put coolant in. Worked really well. Took over 2 gallons and didn't find any air in the system. Pressure bled the brake system and bled the clutch. Used vacuum to make sure I got the air out of the throw out bearing. Started to hook up the intake piping. The little bracket that supports by the air filter, does anyone have a pic of how that is hooked up? Also did you have to trim any hoses or pipe for the intercooler plumbing from the turbo? Started to hook up the shift cables. Cables seem pretty tight is that normal. Installed the new fuel pump. To clock the pump I pulled the rods from the top plate instead of the bottom. Was really easy that way took about 2 min to do. Now for the exciting part. I did my first start today. Runs a little rough but still need to hook up the maf and a couple hoses. Did find a oil leak at the turbo. I forgot to tighten the oil feed line to turbo :oops:. Hopefully the engine smooths out when I finish hooking up the sensors. Still need to weld in the second o2 bung for the wideband o2 sensor.
 
WYGoblin

WYGoblin

Well-Known Member
Well haven't done much since last post but she is on her own feet and took it around the block to check everything. I can already tell I am going to have way too much fun with it lol. Still need to do the alignment so didn't want to drive it too far. What is the best and easiest way for a DIY alignment. I have the plates Lonny suggested but have also seen ppl use a string. I also need to get in from work early enough so I can start to get it registered. I am hoping it won't be too bad. (It is legal here to plate and drive 4 wheelers and sxs on the streets). Found a burned out headlight bulb and the shifter needs dialed in just a bit more. Shifting back to 2nd it didn't like to stay in gear but upshift feel good. Need to hook up the boost gauge and afr gauge still, put hood, windshield and side panels on. Think I might readjust the rear wing also. Little bit too much rake in it. When I shut the key off the engine stayed running for a few seconds and, reading the forums, found that putting a diode in with the he fan helps. Well I can say it did help. Engine shuts down almost immediately now :D. For the rear bolts to adjust camber do you put 1 bolt in each side or 2.
20200716_191209.jpg
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Cool.

probably need 2 bolts in the rear. They really don’t give a whole lot of adjustment or at least mine didn’t. :rolleyes:
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
WYGoblin said:
What is the best and easiest way for a DIY alignment. I have the plates Lonny suggested but have also seen ppl use a string.
- Start by adjusting your ride height with the weight of the people in the car. make the lower A arms level, front and rear.
- Follow the front and rear directions

...For the rear bolts to adjust camber do you put 1 bolt in each side or 2.
Use both bolts, but keep them loose. When the rear wheel camber is correct, tighten the bolts. 2 person job. You probably will have to file the bolt holes elongated to get more adjustment.
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