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Again, water and air are different size molecules. It’s not unusual to see leak test with air to be 1/2 the pressure of a water test .

If you send me the tune I can turn the codes off for you. I still have the old version.

You can only turn off the check engine light with HPT. The brake, tpms etc can not be turned off.

Fill with water and then pump it up. Keep track of the water and you can drain out just enough to allow coolant concentrate to get you to the correct level. im not surprised at all that it’s not holding air. That’s a lot smaller than water. And if you have a leak, you will probably see it drip.

I don’t know the engine side is a problem. That is often a leak at the gauge or cap attachment. Drive it and see if you actually loose coolant. Not sure about the turbo side . Where could that go if you don’t see a visible leak?

Has the coolant system been drained since the "never had a problem before". It might have an air pocket blocking flow. You might want to add in something that you can see while driving to monitor coolant temps since 240 is getting pretty hot. If it gets to the point of missing and backfiring...

Actually, I'm starting to wonder if maybe this one doesn't have an attempt to include an evap system since that hose with the T continues somewhere. But I'm not reading through 17 pages of build log to find out.

Unless something not normal happed in the build, you don’t have a pressure sensor for the tank. The tank has to have a vent, although the T isn’t the way to do. I installed a rollover valve. But T or not, you will get a tank pressure code.

I would use radiator flush to clean out the system.

I could see soap suds causing the pump to cavitate possibly. I've never heard of doing that before, I wonder why? I would start by changing that out. I guess the requirements are for no antifreeze for that track? Beyond the soap, maybe head gasket leak or failing thermostat.

HPT will pretty much not adjust any module that is not directly powertrain (ECM, PCM, TCM, FPCM) related.

The tank pressure isn't a problem either. Only the MAF code is a problem. And if the MAF isn't working right, it will make the turbo do weird things since the ECM really won't know what is going on.

Barret Jackson doesn't do reserve except on the very upper end of the cost scale. Should have ran it through Mecum with a reserve.

Put the come-along into double pull instead of single pull.

Do I remember correctly and one of the ways to indentify a lsd was to not be able to see through the hole from one side to the other? Or maybe it was the non lsd that you could not see through? Or am I dreaming this up?

How big is the prybar you have tried? I've never had any problem popping one loose with a 4ft bar.

I can't even see my rear wheels when I'm driving to know which is wider.

I try and not get hung up on perfect geometry/setup on anything I have and just concentrate on learning to drive what I have. That said, I don't see that 1.5" will make that much difference anyway. Maybe not mathematically the best, but practically probably not that much difference.

Be careful with using just any tuner for a LNF e69 ECM. They have nothing in common with an LS style engine/ecm. It’s not that complicated to tune them but they will need study up on them to tune it.

Drop the pressure down to around 20 psi or less. Castor to about 8 degrees. Camber to about -1. Toe to about 1/8” in. As a starting point.