Search results

The first video says put cylinder 1 at TDC, the second says cylinder 4. Which is it supposed to be?

I've referenced those videos. The issue I'm having now, is the cam sprockets only key in position. They're supposed to be in this position: But on mine, their 180 out. For exhaust cam, INT is where EXH is, and EXH is at about 6 o'clock. You can see in that image where the keyway is, running...

I'm struggling with the engine timing. I replaced the timing chain before installing the engine. There is a clacking noise coming from near the chain so I pulled it apart again. Now I'm trying to get everything lined up: Cylinder 1 is top dead center on compression stroke, both valves closed...

With the wheel turned full right the brake line can't touch the A-arm. I seems like the line is ~6 inches too short. Other's builds and the new install video look like they have way more line to work with.

How long is the front brake line supposed to be? Mine's about 23 inches and there's no slack even with the wheel straight. Rear lines are shorter so I know they're not swapped.

Can someone tell me what these JDAE pieces are? Can't find any mention of them on the forum.

The only solid purple wire in the C1 Fuse Block goes is Starter Solenoid Crank Voltage. Connector View -B10

Ran a new wire from the OBDII to the PCM connector. Turns out I had cut that wire. Not sure why. Not sure if something different was supposed to cut but wasn't. Regardless, I have OBDII now: P0017 - Crankshaft Position P0452 - Evap System Pressure P2229 - Barometric Pressure The Crankshaft...

Oh, and still don't have OBD2 because I have no continuity on the #2 pin to the PCM. I assume that's just for communicating with the reader. I'm thinking of just running a new wire down the tunnel instead of trying to hunt down the solder in my harness.

She runs with the key! Spent a lot, a LOT of time trying to get the BCM connector pins to play nice. Ended up breaking the terminal position locking tab and had to wait to get another. It's revving when it runs, almost staging before revving up. Is that because intake isn't set up yet?

Make sure the seal is not damaged or it will leak forever. Photos of good and bad seals

I found my TN and TN/BK serial wires are soldered together backwards. Rather than trying to find the original solders in the harness or resolder then backwards again somewhere else, I decided to just swap their pin positions at the BCM connector. Now my problem is reassembling the connector...

My dad's got a basic reader in going to grab in the morning, to start with. Sounds like I have thread to follow, at least.

Worth an attempt in the morning. Never touched the relay between teardown and first start, though.

I've delayed this post long enough. I have the dreaded No Crank. What I have: -HX Fan Runs -HX Pp Runs -Fuel Pp runs -12V in RUN and START at CRANK RELAY inputs (Pins 30 and 86) -12V through the whole starting circuitry to the PCM C1 connector pin 48 -Car ran when I jumped the crank relay. Ran a...

Was pushing hard to attempt a first start today, but i think I'm shutdown by the fuel line. The video (from last month) use hardware from a K007 bag. Went through everything I have, and all the pictures of the hardware from when my kit arrived, and I don't have one. I think I got a bag for a NA...

I don't expect anyone to be able to look and say "yeah that's good". More that I've never worked with brakes before, and want to be sure that 'tight is tight' and not 'fitting must be flush'.

Thanks. Fasteners that don't sit flush make me nervous.

Can someone confirm if these brake fittings are tightened enough? I know I stopped when it got real tough. I don't want to over tighten, but I'd rather prevent leaks if I can help it.

This is exactly why I had to replace it. Damaged it during teardown because I didn't know how it came apart.