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Check around. Looks like a lot happening that weekend, but stuff is available here and there.

That’s why I have never installed mine. :D

The dipstick problem could be from a restricted exhaust, very excessive blow by or boost when you shouldn’t have it (bypass mod). Could be you need to clear the trouble codes, the diaphragm is leaking, hoses leaking or vacuum hose may not be connected at the intake. use photo for hose reference

It’s been done and if I ever install mine, they will be on the inside and cut down. I like the look of the frame too much to hide it. Searching for something like that you’ll have to remember who did it and search them. And I don’t remember who did it. :facepalm:

Wooo :cool:

I wouldn’t bend anything on the HE, just the bracket that attaches it to the goblin. You don’t want to potentially cause a leak.

Yes that should be it. There is a way to bypass it, I just don’t remember how or if that mod works. Hooking up the gauge helps a lot. If mine ever feels low on power, that’s the first thing I look at.

What is your boost getting to? When my boost solenoid was messed up, I have 5psi or something and no power. I cruise on the freeway at 80-90, there’s plenty of pedal let for faster.

Serape aero with downforce dingleberries?

Spacers would work, but you could also cut and bend the bracket as needed. no reason why rivnuts wouldn’t work there on the frame.

It has nothing to do with build quality. It has everything to do with its still a new build and something could be slightly off or settling in. I would check to make sure the booster rod is in alignment with the pedal stud. I would also make sure the pedal pivot/mount area is free and lubed if...

There’s also a foam “spacer” on the booster to brake pedal. If it’s on the wrong side, it can bind. also check the alignment of that caliper to the rotor. some have had to add a washer on the adaptor to center it properly.

That’ll definitely make things squirrelly. :eek: And a reminder to everyone to check steering and suspension parts/nuts/bolts regularly until, everything settles in.

I thought about that when I was reading your specs. Sorry. “Total toe”

Looks good, other than toe. You’ll want 3 to 4.5mm (1/8”- 3/16”) total toe in. Not 3mm per side. You are at 6mm total toe ( 1/4”j, which is a bit high. Probably max I would go with.

You can try even and see if it drives straight. It might. On the other hand, a few tenths of a degree isn’t going to mess up autocross.

since we are not using high $$$ alignment machines, whatever method you use, that’s what you stick with And why some of our numbers are different than others. You get it in the right area, then you play from there. “your number“ might feel best at (let’s say) 8°, then match accordingly. This is...

Numbers need to be the other way around. About .5° lower caster to the dr side works well. Higher camber and lower caster to the left will make it drive straight dealing with road crown. Roughly .2 to .5 higher left camber and .3 to .8 lower left caster you’ll have to play with this, but...

i was in the hangar so I did it both ways real quick. I actually haven’t touched caster in a long time, much less used 20° method. Note*- not making sure things are precisely level, didn’t go off my marks on the ground for more accurate 20°. One turn of the wheel is real close to 20°.mostly...

Also, move the gauge to the center of the hub.