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I don't mind the position, that picture makes it look way worse than it is.

Selling DF Goblin chassis #35, extended 2010 ss/tc. I loved the build process, but don't drive it as much as it deserves. A bit under 116k on the engine, less than 2k on the Goblin. No bodywork, as it was something I wanted to do myself to make it unique, but it was never high enough priority...

I haven't been active on the forums of late, so I haven't seen this development. Very cool stuff, I'd be happy to buy a full set for chassis #35 :cool:

If I recall correctly, that gray wire (and many like it) are for switch illumination, so unless you have lighted switches, it's not needed.

An update on the above concern - the driver's side panel shown above actually cracked at the bottom where it was attached with the coated clamps (the panel is plexi). So between that and the issue of blocked airflow, I decided to trim the bottom off. I cut it from about the centerline of the...

Thanks for the heads up. I did consider the cooling issue, but never thought about it generating lift. I hoped that not enclosing it completely (it's only about 50%) would keep it from being a huge issue. I'll definitely keep an eye on it as well as I can, but considering I don't drive too hard...

Sorry, I misunderstood that the actual lights you're using do have separate circuits for turn and brake. In that case, what Lonny illustrated would work, or you could just not use the turn circuit and wire the brake circuit as factory. I don't know what the actual light itself looks like, so I...

It's taken a few days to sort through wiring up front, as I want it to be as clean as possible for as much stuff as there is. I fabbed a side panel and a front panel for each side. The side panels hold the ballasts and igniters for the HIDs, the driver front panel has the relay harness to power...

As Ross said, the turn signal and brake light at the rear are the same "bulb" so to speak - the BCM will control it so that it will flash appropriately whether your brakes are on or not. The rears are shown in the middle of the picture. The unlabeled "B" terminal is the tail light (dim red). On...

One finished product. The heat from the grinding to smooth out the seam caused the reflector coating to discolor, so I ended up having to paint that whole piece. Went with some high temp flat black, and I think it looks pretty good. No halos yet, the white around the outside is the rubber gasket.

I've had a bit of time to work on the car lately. I finally wired up the button panels and tied up the wiring in that area, so no more knee-slapping. The bigger project is finally updating the headlights. If you've been following, you know that I've gone through all sorts of unorthodox ideas...

RPD, DIC, PID, whatever it's called ha. Yeah, I'm pretty sure the harness has the connectors for that and the regular boost gauge regardless. Can't help you on the labeling problem though, I'm not any better. o_O

PNK/ORG and PPL go to pins 24 and 39 (respectively) on ECM connector C1. PPL and TAN go to pins 21 and 67 (respectively) on ECM connector C1.

I don't remember for sure, but the mystery connector with the red cap may be for the PID screen (fancy boost/performance gauge screen that some TCs got). The green low-speed GM-LAN wires are not serial, like the tan twisted pairs, so they don't need to be in a chain. Think of it more like a...

Welcome back! If you don't plan on using a sway bar in the rear, they're all the same. If you do, this thread talks about the differences and what factory sway bars you can fit with which subframes. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/suspension-67/suspension-brake-facts-fe1-fe3-fe5-j41-jm4-jl9-137064/

Just an update, I've put probably just over 200 miles on the car and I'm loving it. The squishy brakes eventually fixed themselves - I'm guessing there was a small bubble of air in the master cylinder that I couldn't get out, and it finally just worked its own way out, but the brakes are...

Thanks for the suggestions, it did in fact turn out to be the elbow. I got it cleaned up and reinstalled, bled, then sat and pumped it probably 50 times with no leak. All is well.

Exactly. Eventually, I plan to have the signals integrated into the headlights, so that will be cleanest, but I just put these on for now.

They did, I just didn't want to run the extra wires up and across the dash bar.

That was actually my original plan when I bought them, but I would have had to put them so far back on the housing that they'd be partially hidden from even a few degrees away from head-on. I wanted them both to be visible from either side. I need to change the mounting so that the center of the...