KJP
Well-Known Member
This seemed odd to me as well I would be interested to see where this is coming from.
AleX1/9's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor - Chassis #18 - WA registered
- Thread starter AleX1/9
- Start date
AleX1/9
Well-Known Member
Finished the intake today. Consists of cut down oem MAF tube, 3" to 3" ID 30 degree silicone joiner, 3" to 3.25"ID 90 degree silicone joiner/reducer (both also cut down), a 3" filter cone and 3" aluminum joiner pipe. Got all of it on ebay for $45
Eventually I'll find a nicer quality filter to put on there, and I still need to decide how I want to tap the crank breather hose (not much room between the MAF sensor and throttle body). I think I'm going to try and thread a tapered NPT or similar barb into the bottom of the silicone hose joiner and see how she holds..... maybe with a dab of epoxy....
Eventually I'll find a nicer quality filter to put on there, and I still need to decide how I want to tap the crank breather hose (not much room between the MAF sensor and throttle body). I think I'm going to try and thread a tapered NPT or similar barb into the bottom of the silicone hose joiner and see how she holds..... maybe with a dab of epoxy....
Last edited:
JSATX
Goblin Guru
That MAF location is pretty worrying. Is that how all the SC cars are? I’m not saying you should change anything, just keep it in the back of your mind when you have it tuned. I imagine the output frequency is going to be all over the place but hopefully it wont cause you any issues.
BaltimoreHokie
Goblin Guru
The MAF that was on my SS was in the wheel well. Pretty close to the actual filter. It was the ZZP CAI fyi. I considered keeping it but I assumed we'd have something that came with our kit. I guess not if you had to make yours. I'll have to find something.
AleX1/9
Well-Known Member
Also found a new spot for the auxiliary gauges. Mounted to the column, and notched into the cowl tube.
I also made some new brackets for the turn stalk, to angle it back and away from the steering wheel. The steering wheels that come from DF have a deep dish, and mine is pretty flat, and was only an inch behind the wheel.
BaltimoreHokie
Goblin Guru
I really like those seats. Are they comfortable? Did you retro fit sliders or buy some for them?
KJP
Well-Known Member
x2 those look great in the car
AleX1/9
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys!
They're quite comfy for me, I'm 6 foot 200lbs. Can't speak to long road trip comfort though. I welded supports in for sliders before powdercoating - more details earlier in this thread. maybe page 2? Also laid some dynamat down underneath.
JeffsGoblin
Goblin Guru
Alex, the build looks great! What about the heat exchanger placement? Some of the other builds are putting it in the back. How is your's working out up front and is the option B setup working like you thought it would?
AleX1/9
Well-Known Member
I’m not driving quite yet, so nothing to report here.
For what it’s worth, I went form over function on the heat exchanger placement. For the clean & simple look I’m after, worth the compromise hands down. I won’t be running the wing or most of the body panels either... to reduce the visual weight of the whole vehicle.
I would guess the rear mounted setups like BAR-AIR’s and CTUINSTRA’s are 3x more efficient considering size and placement. If you like the look, that’s the way to go.
Some other ideas are side pods/scoops mounted in front of the rear wheels, or ducktail style
Last edited:
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
FYI, My front mount heatexchanger I was seeing IAT2s up into the 180s on hot days, and that is with a new functioning pump. That is the reason I switched to back mount and much larger now I'm down in the 90s low 100s when I'm pushing it for an extended time.
And keep in mind the 180s IAT2s were with the stock pulley, and the 90s-100s are with a 2.8"
Nuker-
I wanted to expand and say that I think a part of the reason front mount was sucking a lot of the heat from the radiator. And that system is a heck of a lot hotter then the intercooler system.
And keep in mind the 180s IAT2s were with the stock pulley, and the 90s-100s are with a 2.8"
Nuker-
I wanted to expand and say that I think a part of the reason front mount was sucking a lot of the heat from the radiator. And that system is a heck of a lot hotter then the intercooler system.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I found it interesting that going down a long straight road with no load and the IATs would climb. At first it seems strange because the engine is under no stress, why would it get warmer. Then it dawned on me that the throttle is closed and there is no (very little) ambient air coming coming into the intake and the sensor is warming up because of the engine. Once I was back on the throttle, you could see the temps drop like a rock again. Kind of fun to watch on the OBDII scan gauge.
JeffsGoblin
Goblin Guru
Alex, I'm curious if you'll get the same results as Nuker. If a builder is going after performance on the supercharger, it doesn't seem like it would buy a whole lot to do both front and rear heat exchangers. I wonder if anyone is running both? Sorta like running the stock with the dual pass and the ZZP heat exchanger.
Brian74
Goblin Guru
Is that front heat exchanger designed to run behind the radiator or in front of it?
Ben Eldridge-Peter
Member
Im planning on running the provided SS heatexchanger as well as the zzp.