Ark's City Goblin (2007 2.0L LSJ donor) - Aborted mission

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Any tips for breaking loose the seat belt bolts? I can't even break them loose with an impact drill and liberal soaking with penetrating oil...
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
1/2in drive breaker bar. Mine were tight until the last thread. They were a pain.
I broke my cheap Ryobi drill/impact driver trying to get those out.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I'll have to give that a try. I have a 1/2 bar, but only a 5/16 T50. I'll have to find a new T50.

Could I potentially just cut/grind them out? I don't need to keep them, right?
 

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
It's better to use a breaker bar than an Impact on those. It will usually break the tips off the torx socket. When hit with an impact. I have used a pipe wrench also.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
It's better to use a breaker bar than an Impact on those. It will usually break the tips off the torx socket. When hit with an impact. I have used a pipe wrench also.
True, however I found that if you press the impact hard against the bolt and don't just free-hand it, it keeps down the slop and jolting the socket and helps to keep from breaking the tips off.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
1/2 inch breaker bar with a new T50 bit and 2 people - one to turn the wrench, the other to press hard on the head of the wrench to keep it from riding out of the bolt head. My car was from dry El Paso with almost no rust, any car from the 'rust belt' will certainly have some oxidation and be more difficult to break loose the more challenging bolts.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Dumb question time.

I picked up a cheap Manzo short shifter (the old Hurst shifter clone) to eventually replace the stock shifter. I was going over it, figuring out how to install it, but I'm stuck. I've got the stock shifter out and I want to install the new shifter, but I cannot seem to figure out how to get the crossover hold-down piece (the piece you screw down to hold the white crossover ring in place) to go in between the pivot ball and the reverse lockout part. Neither seems to come off...



Out of all the crap I've learned on this adventure so far, to think I am being defeated by a simple shifter is vexing!!!!!!! Help!
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Hopefully these two images are enough to portray what has to happen.

The pivot ball of the shifter needs the white and black ring around it, then that structure needs to be clamped in between the larger shifter base and and hold-down piece, which screws down onto the base. For that to happen, the white and black ring and the hold-down piece both have to get between the pivot ball and the reverse-lock part of the shifter.

The only way I can see to get them there is to remove the pin in the reverse-lock part and slide that part up and off. But, the pin does not move easily and I don't want to risk breaking it if I am wrong.

Thanks guys.
 

Attachments

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
That's actually the thread I used to help me disassemble the stock shifter. I'm thinking that pin will need to come out and I'll need to remove the reverse-lock piece.

If I break it, I'll let you know!
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Finally at the point where I can remove the subframe and drop the motor out. I had a lot of trouble getting the front wheel hubs out of the steering knuckles, but I managed. Next challenge is to crack the subframe bolts loose. I tried a few times via the normal methods (impact drill, breaker bar) but no dice. I've got them soaking in penetrating oil now; hopefully they will come out tomorrow and I can drop the motor tomorrow or this weekend.

Aiming to be rid of my donor carcass before my family vacation at the end of July, so, fingers crossed...
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Dropping the engine/trans and subframe is a big step. Your donor starts looking less like a car and more like something that needs to leave your garage. It is typically a big event when the donor is finally gone. Good work!
 
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