Chassis #387 Extended Length, Full cage ~ 08 LNF Donor - 6 Speed F40

Matt3458

Matt3458

Member
RobC76 said:
I would like different tailights.
I do have a nine lives wang.
Didn’t even think of camera mounts.
I searched tailights in forum but nothing came up. I somehow suck at forum searching lol.
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If you're looking for XYZ, go to google and search: site:dfkitcar.com XYZ
You'll get better results, and you can use quotations like "XYZ 123" to find exact phrasing. So instead of getting a result with every post that has the word 'brake' in it, you can seach "brake line fitting" or whatever.
 
RobC76

RobC76

Well-Known Member
Opinions? This looks like a crack in shock / an arm mount. I took scotchbrite to it and I can definitely catch a nail on it. I’ve never noticed it but then again I never looked until I was fitting some additional bottom cage bracing today.
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Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
It looks like it, but not how it would be there without any stress being applied to it. Does it go through to the other side?
 
RobC76

RobC76

Well-Known Member
Made some progress on the cage reinforcement project. X braced the floor and front clip. Used the same tubing diameter and thickness as factory to do this. I have one more bar to add near pedals, finish weld, add gussets, add center tunnel back into car. At that point I’ll move unto door bars, upper front clip reinforcements and seat mounting along with harness attachment points. I’ll be using sliding seat rails.
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RobC76

RobC76

Well-Known Member
Rttoys said:
It looks like it, but not how it would be there without any stress being applied to it. Does it go through to the other side?
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No that is a hollow mount that has a weld line top and bottom. It was extremely blue from welding. Much more blue then driver side.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
That doesn't look like a crack in the metal, but I'm not sure.
You can buy metal crack detection dye, but I make my own because I already own UV dye and UV dye detection kit.
Wipe on some dye mixed with penetrating oil, wipe off the excess, then coat it with talc powder. The talc powder will draw the dye out of any cracks or imperfections in the metal.
 
Joebob

Joebob

Goblin Guru
It does not look like a stress crack to me but more like a manufacturing joint as it looks like a weld root pass that has been ground smooth. The fact that it runs perpendicular to the hollow section and not to a stress direction would also support this. Where you are most susceptible would be at the toe of the weld or about 1/8" away in the heat affected zone.

Joe
 
RobC76

RobC76

Well-Known Member
Still haven’t brought home the light and dye from shop so I’ll have to follow up on the above post when I get the stuff home to look further into it.
 
RobC76

RobC76

Well-Known Member
Been a few weeks… I was going to do seat sliders but after some trial and error I decided against them. The main reason is because as you slide the seat forward you get very close to the a pillar. Not and issue for you guys with longer legs but being only 5’-8” stock pedal location is basically unreachable for me. I’ve decided to go forward with the Tilton 600 series floor mount pedals. I was going to fab up a slider bracket for the pedals but came up with this prefabricated bracket that I will weld in chassis. Not cheap but time is what I don’t have an excess of so it’s in its way.


In case anyone wants one.

removing stock pedal box and clutch pedal brackets I will be able to close the cockpit off a little better from the radiator and I’ll be able to x brace the top of the frame ahead of a pillar to nose much easier. Pics to follow.

I’ve decided to go with 13/16” master cylinder on the brakes and 3/4” for the clutch. I will most likely use the remote balance adjuster on the brake balance bar as well.
Looking at the pedals and position of seat just wondering if anyone that has tilton or wilwood pedals has actually shimmed the pedals to lean back toward driver for a better angle of foot on pedal?

I’ve also decided to go forward with side pods of some style. More to come on that.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Ouch, that's a big chunk of change for what looks like a steel plate with rolled edges and nuts tacked into the holes. :oops: But as you said, money versus time - one always wins out.
 
M

mike_sno

Goblin Guru
RobC76 said:
Been a few weeks… I was going to do seat sliders but after some trial and error I decided against them. The main reason is because as you slide the seat forward you get very close to the a pillar. Not and issue for you guys with longer legs but being only 5’-8” stock pedal location is basically unreachable for me. I’ve decided to go forward with the Tilton 600 series floor mount pedals. I was going to fab up a slider bracket for the pedals but came up with this prefabricated bracket that I will weld in chassis. Not cheap but time is what I don’t have an excess of so it’s in its way.


In case anyone wants one.

removing stock pedal box and clutch pedal brackets I will be able to close the cockpit off a little better from the radiator and I’ll be able to x brace the top of the frame ahead of a pillar to nose much easier. Pics to follow.

I’ve decided to go with 13/16” master cylinder on the brakes and 3/4” for the clutch. I will most likely use the remote balance adjuster on the brake balance bar as well.
Looking at the pedals and position of seat just wondering if anyone that has tilton or wilwood pedals has actually shimmed the pedals to lean back toward driver for a better angle of foot on pedal?

I’ve also decided to go forward with side pods of some style. More to come on that.
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Could you please take a lot pictures of the pedal installation? I would love to get another pedal box as I have a hard time braking with my left foot. It's just not enough space.
 
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