Desert Sasqwatch Track Extended - 08 SS/TC LNF F40

Desert Sasqwatch

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Reintroduction: Tim Marks in Laveen (Phoenix) AZ. I have been wanting to build a kit car for years and looked at many that just did not quite fit what I wanted or fit within my budget - Lotus 7, Cobra, Cheetah (all too expensive) or Exocet, Nemesis (too difficult to license). I ran across the Goblin late last year (2018) and started researching it as a potential candidate for a car to build. After spending several months reading everything I could find about the car and seeing every video that had been made up through this year, I joined the DFG Forum in February. The welcome I received was very reassuring that this community is ultra supportive and will share knowledge freely about all aspects of the car and the build process. Lonny and Adam were very responsive to my initial queries and have shown through their communication and responsiveness to the Goblin community they truly care about their product and their customers. My postings have been very positive with everyone I gained enough knowledge to know this is the car I want to build - thanks to everyone here in the DFG Forum community.

I started by purchasing a crate engine (LNF), transmission (F40), LSD, clutch/flywheel kit, coilovers, wheels, tires. Knowing I was committed to the SS/TC I searched for a little over 4 weeks to locate a suitable donor - after looking at dozens of potential cars from everywhere west of the Mississippi River. I purchased an 08 SS/TC from Copart in El Paso on 3/7. It was a rearender with some minor front corner damage. The bidding was low on the car and I purchased for a very good price ($2K delivered to my driveway) on 3/12. The donor teardown will begin this weekend, proceeding carefully to photograph and label everything as I go. Time to start my build log.
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

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Attaching photos of the preliminary purchases described above - crate engine (LNF), transmission (F40), 6-speed shifter (Saab), flywheel/clutch (Regal GS), coilovers (Raceland Ultimo), wheels (Vors TR4), tires (Federal 595RS-R):
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

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Made a little progress, got the front plastic and bumper off today. Hooked a battery charger to my empty battery location (was not delivered with the car - will have to pick one up) and determined my donor has just under 132,000 miles. Once I have the battery I will make an attempt to start it and to be sure it at least runs. The intercooler took the brunt of the front passenger corner damage, so I will be running on an open system - believe the MAF will need to be unplugged for it to at least idle?
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

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I bought a new battery yesterday and got it hooked up in my donor SS/TC. The engine fired off immediately, idled just fine. I ran it about 4 minutes, responding to throttle inputs and no leaks. Note: the intercooler was broken in the accident that put this car into the insurance auction. The engine was running on open N/A, so I unplugged the MAF sensor for this start, no issues. Took a short video of the engine running. Now that this is out of the way, I can start the major teardown of the donor car.
 

deuc224

Active Member
Good stuff DS, im excited about starting mine tomorrow as well. Im glad your started up and idled smooth with no mishaps.
 

IDRVSLO

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I've used them previously on a VW, they were very good ride quality - softer springs than other coilovers - and are reasonable $$$.
Do you know what spring rate they are running? My brother ran Racelands on his GTI, very stiff spring. What are your plans for the extra parts? Sell them to a guy with a blown set?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

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Do you know what spring rate they are running? My brother ran Racelands on his GTI, very stiff spring. What are your plans for the extra parts? Sell them to a guy with a blown set?
Scott,
I ordered the Ultimos with the softer progressive rate springs: 225 lb/in front, 120 in/lb rear versus the stiffer linear rate normal springs at 260 lb/in front, 135 in/lb rear. Raceland can special order different rate springs if I want them, but most 2 1/2 inch coilover springs can used with these front struts if I have to change to a different spring rate.

The rear shocks/springs I will likely be selling at some point. The front struts from my donor will also be going out for sale as well - the rears are toast from the rearender that happened to the car.
Tim
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
Getting further into the early DF videos tearing down the donor. Not following everything exactly, but am making slow but steady progress. Am labeling everything with an inexpensive labelmaker. I'm sure this will help save my bacon at some point in the not too distant future.

Have a general question: has anyone removed the shift knob from the stock 5 speed shifter? I don't want to destroy anything, but need to remove the fake leather shifter boot that is pretty much falling apart to replace.
 

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RichRich

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So awesome to see your start. Looking great so far. Yes, you pry/remove the top piece, and 1 bolt will be underneath then you can remove the whole shift knob and then remove the boot. I did not go this route as I just cut mine out but that is how it is done without cutting or if replacing with a new one
 

Motoracer110

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Wow you are off to a great start I love the idea of labeling everything. I was watching the wire harness part of the videos and first thing I said was every plug I pull gets a label. I can see myself cutting and pulling the wrong wires
 

Desert Sasqwatch

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Looking for ideas. My original pics at the beginning of this thread shows the rearender and the damage to the body and drivers side door. I need to get the door open, but it is severely jammed into the body structure pushed into it. I took some more photos in case someone needed to see things differently.

The first photo is kinda dark but shows the bottom of door jam rolled into the bottom corner of the door.
The next 2 photos shows the door gapping - the top door frame is actually straight, that is how much twist there is in the body.
The last photo shows the rear lower corner of the door where the jam is actually pushed up into the car.

I was thinkin of breaking out the grinder with a cutoff blade and/or a sawsall. Any other options?
Thanks.
 

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ctuinstra

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I know this doesn’t help you much, but this is where my tractor with the loader and hydraulics comes in handy. Not to forget the Oxy torch. That’s the fun part of the build.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

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The drivers front fender is the only piece of exterior sheet metal that does not have a dent or wrinkle...aagghhh!!! Your killing me Smalls!!! :p

I will try the grinder on the remainder of the rear fendr at the door latch. Maybe I will get lucky and removing that section of the door jam will get me into the drivers door. Thanks.
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
Could pull the front fender, at least all the bolts you can get to then bend it out of the way to unbolt the door hinges.

edit: just seen someone said that exact same thing...nevermind then lol

I have a HUGE pry bar if you can wedge it anywhere..also could try a come-along
 
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