Desert Sasqwatch Track Extended - 08 SS/TC LNF F40

Motoracer110

Well-Known Member
Sometimes if you walk into the local fire station and ask them if they want to practice using their jaws of life they would happily do it. Got a few friends in the fire department that would love that
 

Karter2026

Well-Known Member
Brute force is the only way! that yellow pry bar beat in between the door and quarter. and lean into it. Put your helmet on I have seen them pop open so quickly and people lose footing and head bounces off the car or the concrete. Yes I have seen it and been on the bad end of it also.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
Brute force is the only way! that yellow pry bar beat in between the door and quarter. and lean into it. Put your helmet on I have seen them pop open so quickly and people lose footing and head bounces off the car or the concrete. Yes I have seen it and been on the bad end of it also.
Ron, that sounds like the voice of experience. I will take your words to heart and use a helmet.
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
Ask your local fire department if they want to practice extraction with their jaws-of-life tool?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone. I may stop by the fire station and ask if they want practice on my car. It would not be very exciting, since it is only one door to open.

I did make some more progress today, got the engine and light harnesses out of the car. To answer the pending questions, no, I did not follow the videos and take the engine and harnesses out as one piece. Remember, I have a new engine to put this harness onto and I will be leaving the donor engine and trans in the car for now. I will clean up the engine harness and get it prepped to install on my new engine in the near future. Next up is to strip the interior and get the body harness removed. BTW, the label maker will be a lifesaver, would highly recommend this to everyone just starting a donor teardown.
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
Another day of good progress - besides getting the drivers door open - I removed the drivers side rear wheel (had to pry it off) and WOW is it a mess. In the first photo you can see it is just a wee bit out of round. Think I can fix it with a little hammering and some JB Weld??? :rolleyes:

I got the car up in the air, the jackstands are not level as the left rear corner is pushed about 3 inches higher than rest of the car. The front fenders are off and both salvageable to resell (yea!). Got into the trunk, removed the lid and it will also be a resale item (yea again!). Removed the rest of sheet metal and structure from the front end with the sawsall to prepare for removing the engine/trans.

BTW, the wheels I purchased (Vors TR4) fit over the Brembo brakes - in case anyone cares.
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
Slow day Saturday and today (Sunday) is going to be a challenge. My gout is acting up and preventing me from being too active - I will have to take it easy for a day or two. Did get the brakes removed from the donor. I plan to use the Brembos from the donor, but with either a smaller single diaphragm power booster or go with manual brakes. Provided some info to Kyle (Tinkles) yesterday to assist him with a sizing challenge he is having with his brakes. BTW, I have plenty of extra photos of the Brembo brake set up and measurements if anyone needs them.

Also got the electrical harness pulled for the back of the donor and inside the trunk. Having difficulty with the rear seat removal, since the rearender squeezed the interior of the car about 2 inches right at the base of the rear seat. Trying to locate the 'secret' clip/tab that holds the backs of the rear seat in place to get them removed, so I can move to stripping the interior of the car.
 

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JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
I don't want to offend you (Tim) or Kyle, but every time Brembos have been brought up on the forum, it just isn't worth the squeeze. The Brembos were meant to stop a 3,000+ pound car and the Goblin is 1,500 to 1,600 pounds. So if it is just the challenge of doing it, I understand... but if you think you need more stopping power, most Goblin owners would tell you the stock Goblin brakes are more than enough. Just trying to save you some money and time since no one else spoke up. :)
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
I don't want to offend you (Tim) or Kyle, but every time Brembos have been brought up on the forum, it just isn't worth the squeeze. The Brembos were meant to stop a 3,000+ pound car and the Goblin is 1,500 to 1,600 pounds. So if it is just the challenge of doing it, I understand... but if you think you need more stopping power, most Goblin owners would tell you the stock Goblin brakes are more than enough. Just trying to save you some money and time since no one else spoke up. :)
Jeff, thanks. I understand the point of not using the Brembos from the aspect they are overkill on a car as light as the Goblin. But you can never have too much brakes when it is 115 degrees and you are descending a 9 percent grade in the mountains. The scariest thing in the world is having overheated brakes and coming up on a 190 degree bend in the road with a 1000 foot drop off on the outside of that curve. I've burned up some pretty over-adequate brakes before, which were defined to never overheat for the application (GTI 320mm Baer). Only rubbed a minor amount of paint on the rear corner off onto the guardrail - and had to change my shorts afterward. Scorched the pads and glazed the rotors pretty badly. Brakes are the most important safety feature of the car and overkill is a good thing.
 

deuc224

Active Member
DS, one thing people always say is that if you arent careful with the goblin, they will brake lock easily. So Brembos will make it way easier to brake lock and may be more dangerous.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
DS, one thing people always say is that if you arent careful with the goblin, they will brake lock easily. So Brembos will make it way easier to brake lock and may be more dangerous.
Using the standard 10 inch power booster from the donor brake system - yes. Sizing of the power booster by going smaller, if keeping the power brakes, or correct sizing of the master cylinder combined with brake pedal ratio going to a manual brake system will help alleviate the tendency to lock up. Brake bias adjustment front to rear will help ensure the front will lock before the rear if it does happen. The idea is to have a more brake disc mass to help prevent overheating and the ability to brake longer without scorching and glazing. This is something that is being worked out among several of us on the forum and eventually the correct setup will be found to use the Brembos or similarly sized aftermarket brakes effectively. Thanks.
 

Lethalcast

Well-Known Member
The brakes are so crazy strong as it is and I actually had someone turn in front of me at 70 the other day and had to use them for real. The car had so much brake left and stopped instantly. I cant imagine more braking power lol. It would be cool to have a bias adjustment like an atom haha
 
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