Unfortunately, I am never getting to this project

Jkean949

Jkean949

Something witty
With two young kids, hobbies, and a job I have come to recognize this thing was meant to be built...not for storage. So, with heavy heart I am selling mine. My chassis was on the first delivery...I don't have anything in my invoicing saying what chassis number it is (in the DF staging photo below it is the second one from the left in gun-metal). My donor is/was a 2008 SS so a turbo, trunk sticker attached LNF with the LSD, full photo of donor before disassembly (with the Title).

Car has been mock assembled so technically it's a roller, wire harness per the instruction vids is ~90% done...and it is just collecting dust.

In trade I'm looking for a Honda Pioneer 500 or 520 (trail width compliance issues, I have to stay at 50") or $9000 cash. The price is firm, I don't have to sell (my wife tried talking me out of selling)...just would rather park something there I am currently needing/using. As such, I am not going to be open to selling any individual parts.

Let me know what questions I can answer.

thanks,

John
 

Attachments

Vwsaabvt

Vwsaabvt

Goblin Guru
Jareth said:
The chassis number will be riveted just to the left of the gas tank In picture #2
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I think they started doing that much later in frame numbers
duthehustle93 said:
I may have missed it... but where are you located and what is the donor mileage?
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based on the old Archived *Official Builders Thread* I believe this is frame number 5 that was originally delivered to Olathe KS.

@Jkean949 being that this is one of the original kits, what additional parts do you have with it? Hood, side panels, tail lights, etc...
 
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Jkean949

Jkean949

Something witty
Correct on location, it's Olathe, KS (a suburb of Kansas City).

The donor mileage was 98,329

I never got to the point of buying the hood or panels, I'll have to look at the tail lights as I seem to remember something like 5" rounds.
 
duthehustle93

duthehustle93

Active Member
This may justify it's own thread, but figured it might be helpful for prospective buyers (even if that isn't me)..

Is there any significant differences between the older frames and newer ones? (aside from standard frame length).

I'm brand new to Goblins but have been looking for a SS/TC unfinished project. There's currently two posted in the past month: this one (#5) and #220. I would imagine a later model chassis will have more kinks worked out, but I'm not an expert here. It will probably see around 12 track days/a handful of TA's a year.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
No significant differences in the older frames.
The first prototype frame was quite different.
41842
41843


The second prototype looks to be the final design.
41844
41846


- I see what looks like a high seat mounting point on this car... I don't have that on my frame #121.
- The passenger side grab handles were eliminated, although I have considered adding this back in my goblin.
- DF eliminated the grounding spot in the middle of the tunnel, as it is often riveted shut, and hard to get at. This is a bolt and a wiring harness change.
- The early frames didn't have an option for a parking brake, as DF developed this option slightly before my frame. This option is brake parts and cables, so you can apply it to any goblin. Some early builders did their own parking brake solutions.
- Small change in the way the radiator overflow bottle is mounted.
- More options are offered by DF, but they can be put on any goblin. Detachable steering wheel, billet shifter, etc. Check out the DF Store.
 
duthehustle93

duthehustle93

Active Member
Ross said:
- I see what looks like a high seat mounting point on this car... I don't have that on my frame #121.
- The passenger side grab handles were eliminated, although I have considered adding this back in my goblin.
- DF eliminated the grounding spot in the middle of the tunnel, as it is often riveted shut, and hard to get at. This is a bolt and a wiring harness change.
- The early frames didn't have an option for a parking brake, as DF developed this option slightly before my frame. This option is brake parts and cables, so you can apply it to any goblin. Some early builders did their own parking brake solutions.
- Small change in the way the radiator overflow bottle is mounted.
- More options are offered by DF, but they can be put on any goblin. Detachable steering wheel, billet shifter, etc. Check out the DF Store.
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Thanks Ross, this is really helpful.

-Can you clarify what you mean by high seat mounting point?
-The parking brake may be an issue since I'll have to add it for brake/light inspection here (depending on the inspector)... I'm very comfortable with welding, but it feels "wrong" grinding off powder coat on a new chassis.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I don't have these seat mounting points... I don't need them for my seats.
41848

The parking brake parts can be purchased from the DF Store, so no problem adding this to any goblin. No welding necessary.
The front radiator support is now bolted onto the frame, the early frames it was welded on.
 
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S

snirtman

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
No significant differences in the older frames.


- I see what looks like a high seat mounting point on this car... I don't have that on my frame #121.
- The passenger side grab handles were eliminated, although I have considered adding this back in my goblin.
- DF eliminated the grounding spot in the middle of the tunnel, as it is often riveted shut, and hard to get at. This is a bolt and a wiring harness change.
- The early frames didn't have an option for a parking brake, as DF developed this option slightly before my frame. This option is brake parts and cables, so you can apply it to any goblin. Some early builders did their own parking brake solutions.
- Small change in the way the radiator overflow bottle is mounted.
- More options are offered by DF, but they can be put on any goblin. Detachable steering wheel, billet shifter, etc. Check out the DF Store.
Click to expand...
@Ross - can't believe you didn't mention this :):

41854


The new(er) rod end brackets are substantially heavier now.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
True. But that isn't a frame change. If you push your car hard :rolleyes: you can buy the upgraded part.
 
duthehustle93

duthehustle93

Active Member
I probably shouldn't have said 'frame'... the kit as a whole is relevant and that rod end bracket would be an issue for me. The car will be pushed very hard and thanks for mentioning it snirtman. If I go with this one over #220, I'll need to make sure I do something about that bracket.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
You may find that frame #220 has the weaker rod end brackets... and that this frame #5 has the early billet aluminum ones. I'm not sure what frame number started getting the new 5/16" thick steel ones, but my frame #121 came with the 1/4" thick ones. I have never heard of a problem with the billet ones, but they are probably more expensive to make than the steel ones. Either way, you can get new parts if needed.
41872
 
duthehustle93

duthehustle93

Active Member
Thanks for clarifying, I have the resources to fabricate/machine stuff, so this would be a pretty small hurdle. It'll be great to preventatively fix this, rather than find out on a track.
 
Sluggonaut

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Ross said:
I'm not sure what frame number started getting the new 5/16" thick steel ones, but my frame #121 came with the 1/4" thick ones.
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As of frame #364, the thicker ones were available in the store and as an upgrade when ordering the kit. So if they come with the thicker ones now it was after 1/1/2022.
 
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