Does this look right?

[Josh's09]

I am wondering what this part is, we are trying to install the Hydraulic Clutch Elbow (ordered from ZZPerformance) on the F35 engine but it doesn't seem to snap in. Wondering if I broke something/am missing something.

 

[Josh's09]

Update, we figured it out, the bottom is keyed, and only snaps in 2 positions and only fits in 1 way. Just needed a slight 10 degree rotation (insert facepalm)

 

[Ross]

There should be a O ring on the top of that clutch pipe.
GM calls the F35 transmission clutch line attachment point a "distribution block", ZZP calls it a hydraulic clutch elbow. Some keywords to help you with the forum search engine. The clip to hold onto the distribution block has stumped some people, so check out that picture.

 

[Rauq]

Many folks have had issues with leaks at the clutch elbow. The trick seems to be ensuring it's on the end of the clutch pipe (as pictured) before you install the clutch elbow, rather than seated in the clutch elbow before installation on the clutch pipe. If you have any concerns at all, it'd be well worth the 2 minutes to pull and reinstall to avoid the hassle of trying to rework it down the road.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Many folks have had issues with leaks at the clutch elbow. The trick seems to be ensuring it's on the end of the clutch pipe (as pictured) before you install the clutch elbow, rather than seated in the clutch elbow before installation on the clutch pipe. If you have any concerns at all, it'd be well worth the 2 minutes to pull and reinstall to avoid the hassle of trying to rework it down the road.
View attachment 41559

If you would please update your post with a pic of what this pipe looks like with and without the seal! I thought ours was broken, not realizing the seal was the entire top of the replacement line.(in the pic, the circled area from the bump up is the "rubber seal" and it can get pulled off in disassembly. Then lost!) If we had known what the pipe looks like without the seal it would have shown us ours was NOT broken but just missing the top part/seal. We could have just carefully pulled the seal off of the new replacement pipe and installed it on our original!(You cannot install a replacement pipe on the T/O bearing without R&R the Trans!) So we decided to R&R the the trans to install a new pipe and a new T/O bearing. Just swapping the rubber seal to the original pipe would have taken seconds, R&R trans usually runs 3-4 hours in a home garage on a good day! ****Can't complain, we're here now and it's all working fine. I am just hoping to help someone down the line avoid the pitfall we endured. We would have gladly sacrificed a new pipe for it's seal, they are only $15. Plus we had already wasted an afternoon and about $10 in O rings and 2 trips to the parts store trying and failing to jury rig this connection. Hind sight is always 20/20.

 

[Josh's09]

This is what we pulled, we believed the one on the right was broken.

 

[ah.b.normal]

This is what we pulled, we believed the one on the right was broken.

Good comparison shot Josh! The very top part of the new pipe is all rubber and underneath the rubber seal the pipe looks just like your original on the right. Yes, we believed the original pipe was broken. Hindsight is 20/20(perfect) NOW we know we should have swapped out the seal and then we would have sealed the system; things would then be back to how that pipe is supposed to be. I also believed the original pipe was broken because that seal is NOT available separately! Not having another new pipe to compare it to and fiddle with, or even the imagination to think that top seal would be removable without destroying it!, lead me to conclude the seal is molded onto the pipe and that your pipe was broken. Turns out these seals, when they go missing during repairs have screwed techs from the beginning. Well at least it works now!