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Getting ready to pull the trigger starting with the engine

T

Toopilot

Member
T
Getting ready to pull the trigger. I am not sure I want to go the donor car route and deal with stripping and getting rid of the shell after. I want to start with the engine and trans. I want a turbo motor that is bullet proof to 600 HP. I wont run it that way but want the potential to do so.
Regardless of the starting point I will be going with forged rods, pistons, a ZZP ported head and cams. Will have the rotating assembly balanced as well. ZZP main girdle too.
Given that should I find a later 2.4 block or find an LNF. The porous block thing has me a little worried. I am going to put a ton of time and money into the motor and don’t ever want to worry about it.
I have tossed the grenade look forward to the insight from all you cool peeps!!!

Thanks,
Tim
 
S
Not sure there is such a thing as a "bulletproof" 600hp Ecotec. ZZP just did a full race build and got 525hp at 28psi of boost:


And they said in another one of their videos that that power level is only good for roll racing or drag strip as its nearly undriveable. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think @Justinreed7 built a 600hp Goblin and it didn't last. He's currently running about 525 and may go lower just for drivability.

FWIW, my frame of reference is my last sport bike, a Honda CBR1000RR. The bike had about 150hp and weighed about 600 pounds wet, with rider (me). It would go 0-60 in first gear in under 2 seconds and 0-100 in about 4 seconds. Crazy fast. Applying that hp per pound ratio to a 1800# Goblin would take only 450hp. Pretty sure you could make a "bulletproof" LSJ or LNF at that hp level, but you might still have drivability issues.

My 2 cents.
 
S
IMHO bullet proof 2.0-2.4 liter turbo motor putting down 600 HP does not exist. Running too high of compression pressures too close to the ragged edge of being a gernade to be considered bullet proof. I would recommend rather than applying a HP### to your build you ask the question of what you want out of the vehicle. street driving and autocross I would say stay under 400-450 and bigger HP = bigger turbo that comes with lag and driveability concerns as well as reliability. I currently set somewhere around the 350HP range with a LNF and runnning autocross I think I could shave more time off runs with a stock KO4 for faster spool rather than the higher overall HP. In the end its your build to do as much or as little with as you desire but make sure to set expectations that you can meet.
 
ATMironov
Toopilot said:
Getting ready to pull the trigger. I am not sure I want to go the donor car route and deal with stripping and getting rid of the shell after. I want to start with the engine and trans. I want a turbo motor that is bullet proof to 600 HP. I wont run it that way but want the potential to do so.
Regardless of the starting point I will be going with forged rods, pistons, a ZZP ported head and cams. Will have the rotating assembly balanced as well. ZZP main girdle too.
Given that should I find a later 2.4 block or find an LNF. The porous block thing has me a little worried. I am going to put a ton of time and money into the motor and don’t ever want to worry about it.
I have tossed the grenade look forward to the insight from all you cool peeps!!!

Thanks,
Tim
Click to expand...


Something to keep in mind without using a donor, is, there are lots of pieces you’ll have to buy separately, including the wiring harness, which can be really hard to come by intact. You’ll spend less money if you buy the donor.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Keep in mind most used LNFs (and others?) had the Gen II lost-foam cast block, which tend to be porous and technically weaker. Starting with a sand cast block, which are Gen III, eliminated the porosity and improved block strength.

As stated, going overboard with HP in the Goblin, unless it is strictly a tracked car, can be almost impossible for extended street driving. @Scott #321 hit the nail on the head as far as a good target HP for best all around driveability. It's understandable to have a build that's capable to achieve lofty numbers, but highly recommend sticking with a reasonable target and enjoying your Goblin far more. A 350WHP Goblin will smoke 98% of anything on the street and hold its own at the track.
 
T
Thanks for the insight and I agree with everything you guys have said. I want to build something I can turn up and down. Maybe a 500 HP ultimate potential and around 400 HP day to day.
 
Goblinfanclub1234
I am maxing out the stock K04 right now and really enjoying the fast spool it has. I will be going with a bigger turbo but not more than 400 wheel I want to keep a faster spooling turbo. That with some sticky tires is very very fast on the streets.

If you want stupid power how about an LS swapped exocet?!? lol blasphemy
 
T
Dsteinhorst said:
This is the correct question to ask. I've spent less time in boost over the last 2 years driving than it took me to pull the coolant hoses through the frame during the build. In my case, drivability is a priority over power. 250 WHP is plenty.
Click to expand...
You guys plus a ton more research have shown me the light. Will build a more mild set up and will be looking for a donor car
 
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